Do I need a full Billet trans?

D

dieselduck

New member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
581
06 CR auto (details in my signature) - planning on towing twins for quick spool, 30% over CP3, 90-120 injectors, and a Smarty. I am looking for 500-600hp in a very steetable play truck. I rarely tow, and when I do it is less than 5000lbs. Can I get by with just a billet imput shaft or do I need all 3 shafts? What about a billet flexplate? Billet everyting would be best, but costly and I am not sure if I need all that anyway. I am planning on Performance Transmisson in Clinton Il do the build (sun coast parts), any thoughts or experiances with this company will be apreciated.
 
as for shafts you really only need a laminated flex plate and billet input the intermediate and output should be fine if you go for more horsepower then you will need the other shafts
 
I would do what Skynard said... laminated flexplate and billet input. You have to play hard or do something stupid to break and intermediate shaft and if you snap and output it doesn't kill your trans, you just replace the shaft.

Lavon
 
They hit the nail on the head.
I would say go for the billet flexplate if you can. I went with a laminated at first and had to buy a billet later on because the weld cracking
 
i would go billet input and intermetidate, stock output so you have a weak link thats easy to change and isnt that expensive to do. that way you dont have to take the trans apart if it breaks, it can be replaced with the trans in the truck
 
Billet Input and Flex Plate, leave the intermediate and output shafts stock.
 
Wow I must play hard! :hehe: I broke a billet input, broke a billet intermediate & put a nice twist in a billet output shaft with only 570hp.












Lock-up switches can be expensive! LOL
 
At the point, HP-wise, should a billet flexplate be used over a laminated unit?

Is there much price difference between the two?
 
LReiff said:
Wow I must play hard! :hehe: I broke a billet input, broke a billet intermediate & put a nice twist in a billet output shaft with only 570hp.












Lock-up switches can be expensive! LOL
Click to expand...


I ripped the sprag out of the case at a whopping 425:D Do I win anything:hehe:


I'd say the same thing, billet/laminated flexplate, and billet input
Chris
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I think I will go for the billet flex plate, maybe the intermediate, all depends on the $$$.

Anyboby had any experiance with Performance Trans in Clinton IL?
 
D45 said:
At the point, HP-wise, should a billet flexplate be used over a laminated unit?
Click to expand...

it's preference not at what point. Most don't care for billet plates since they don't flex or not near as much as a laminated plate will. You don't see laminated or billet plates broken too often.

I've had a billet plate since mine was built and haven't had a problem.

Is there much price difference between the two?
Click to expand...

Not really.
 
triton said:
it's preference not at what point. Most don't care for billet plates since they don't flex or not near as much as a laminated plate will. You don't see laminated or billet plates broken too often.

I've had a billet plate since mine was built and haven't had a problem.

Not really.
Click to expand...


So a billet plate will be stiff, and cause what problems or give what "feeling"?
 
If you look at a stock flexplate, you will see it is designed to "flex" in and out to take up some torsional shock from the torque coverter. But they fail from the twisting motion from high hp. A billet plate will deliver all shock to the tranny. A laminated plate is a compromise. It is not as strong on the twisting force from the crank but still "flexes"in and out. Failure rates I have seen from both are somewhat equal... But quite low and usually from bolts coming loose.

At your HP you are talking about I don't think failure with either is a concern. For billet I really like the BD... I run a suncoast laminated myself for 40k and it has held fine.

I agree with the others above (take your pick laminated or billet plate) plus billet input and drum. Use a new stock intermediate and output if you are rebuilding.

I have used that setup for the last 40k and broke a stock output once... But that was my fault-- not the shaft.
 
a stock output is one boosted launch away from a tow back to the tranny builder, you say 5 600 now, but we all know we will want more later.
 
mikmaze said:
a stock output is one boosted launch away from a tow back to the tranny builder, you say 5 600 now, but we all know we will want more later.
Click to expand...

Are you saying that MORE power is better???:hehe::hehe::hehe:
I hear what you are saying, Thanks full billet will be best.
 
I would go with BDs Black flexpate. It is a billet flexplate but has holes cut into it for some flex. At least this is how BD explained it to me.

As far as performance trans, I would go with one of tried and true builders.

If I were you, I would call up Dave Goerend and setup a Sat., drive to St. Lucas Iowa (which is 6 hours from you) and have him build your trans the same day.
 
I agree, Call up Dave G chat about your truck, driving style, plans, and he will build what you need.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top