Dodge free wheel hubs?

how long does it take to recoup 2k..that why I never did mine

Not long if you consider fuel, maintenance cost, and tires from it vibrating not to mention the ride smoothness it offers. It's ridiculous that I've had to replace both u-joints up there already in the first 100K and I'd bet the truck ain't been in 4x4 over 1 hour total in it's life. Great design, Dodge. :bang
 
Not long. ? DIesel is cheap man. I know ya don't pay labor. They'll never pay. And I ain't getting my feet wet ford style


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Kinda leanin' towards the Spyntec one now. They don't require purchasing any additional adapters.

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Need to find where to buy the caps or drill mine out if I do it.

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Part Numbers / Prices
• SAST-D0008DRW – 2000-2008 Dodge Dual Rear Wheel Kit $1750
• SAST-D09DRW – 2009 Dodge Dual Rear Wheel Kit $1750
• SAST-D1011DRW – 2010-2011 Dodge Dual Rear Wheel Kit $1750
• SAST-D12+DRW – 2012+ Dodge Dual Rear Wheel Kit $1750
 
I'm getting ready to order the Spyntec hubs and the Dynatrac ball joints. I guess this thread kinda died once I got here but I'll keep you posted on the ease of assembly and the final results.
 
Able to get any deals on these kits?

Yes. I called both companies and was able to get free shipping on the Dynatrac rebuildable ball joints and free shipping and free installation kit for the Spyntec hubs. Saved around $150 total on the whole deal overall. I was researching ball joint presses and a random thought said "call dad." Come to find out, he has the exact OTC press kit that I found in the thread research I was doing that everyone likes. It's never been used. That's about to change. :D The center caps in that picture are a set that a customer had used a 4.25" hole saw and made. I'm not sure that I will be touching chromed plastic with a hole saw....that sounds like a less than one second disaster and they are ruint. I'll most likely make a jig to cut them out on the neighbors lathe.
 
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I went with the Spyntec's because there is no additional adapter for the dually hubs. The hub is machined out of one billet chunk.

I went with the Dynatrac ball joints because they will be super easy to fix if they go out. Once the cup is pressed in, they can be replaced without ever pressing the cup back out. The XRF's looks nice...but they are the same design as the stock ones and MOOG and etc. These ones I bought are totally different.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVfeapriubg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVfeapriubg[/ame]
 
wait til ya gotta get out in the cow schidt to lock in them hubs..thats what I wanna see picks of. we just got out in the pasture after the hurricane to check trees and I was happy to not hafta get my floor filthy..gates are bad enough. if it wasn't raining so hard id have took the quad but....at least the rain washed it on thr trip to town
 
wait til ya gotta get out in the cow schidt to lock in them hubs..thats what I wanna see picks of. we just got out in the pasture after the hurricane to check trees and I was happy to not hafta get my floor filthy..gates are bad enough. if it wasn't raining so hard id have took the quad but....at least the rain washed it on thr trip to town

Why ya got to be such a Debbie downer? When it rains...I'll just lock them before I leave the house. When it snows....I'll just lock them before I leave the house. The other 327 days a year I'll leave them unlocked. That may be dodge's excuse to delete the manual hubs but they are all effed in the head....don't join them. :D LOL :thankyou2::lolly:
 
Well, they are installed. Ball joints, u-joints, and manual hubs.

The Spyntec hubs are really nice. Machine work and finish is great. The hubs that come with at Mile Marker Stainless Steel. They work fine.

For a person installing for the first time it will probably take around 4 hours for the first side.....this is only due to the fact that you might as well throw the installation instructions in the trash and figure it out yourself. It will be just as fast. The pictures are black and white and are horribly done. The next side only took about 2 hours....that is granted that the u-joint doesn't give you fits. I've come to the conclusion that the fastest way to replace them it to torch them out, cool the yoke, then tap the new caps on with a small hammer.

Now....if you follow the instructions to the letter...or at least try to....read closely. I'm wanting to say they never mentioned the effin brake rotor....but I don't have them in front of me to validate. Pretty certain it wasn't in the instructions or I wouldn't have pulled this bull schidt.

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chuckin' dumbass.... :hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

I made up more new cuss words than Robin Williams this weekend.

Overall....I wouldn't hesitate to by the Spyntec hubs if anyone wants a opinion.
 

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They don't really stick out that far and I kinda like the looks of them without the simulator caps.

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Do you have an installed picture with the wheels on?

Beat me to it LOL. I assume on the SRW, the lockout would stick out about another 3"?
 
Do you have an installed picture with the wheels on?

Beat me to it LOL. I assume on the SRW, the lockout would stick out about another 3"?

I would assume.

Disregard the crappy paintless wheels.

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Are those DynaTrac ball joints? A little off-topic but, how are those?

Yes. I put them in at the same time. They are really nice. To pretty to install actually. Pricey. I hope they work. I'm tired of tire wear.

This whole exercise is to try to keep the dodge driving straight, smooth, and not eat tires.....pipe dream I know....but....
 
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Right on. Thanks.

Also, thanks for your critique of the Spyntec hubs. My dad's been wanting a free spin kit for his '06 for sometime now. He's disappointed by 15mpg even though he may not see much of a return with the free spinning hubs.
 
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Right on. Thanks.

Also, thanks for your critique of the Spyntec hubs. My dad's been wanting a free spin kit for his '06 for sometime now. He's tired of 15mpg even though he may not see much of a return with the free spinning hubs.

They are really nicely made. The best part is no additional spacer for the dual wheels. It's all one billet chunk. The only bad is that you have to disassemble to grease the bearings. I don't see any zerk or way to do it other than take it apart. Now, if it is sealed and stays clean...maybe it won't need any maintenance...but as easy as they go on and off, I'd say once a year repack them and call it a day.
 
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