Driveshafts

jhastings

jhastings

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May 26, 2011
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129
Took my front and rear driveshafts in to have new u-joints pressed in since I don't have access to a press. Shop says both shafts are shot. Mostly due to rust in slip joints. What are my options? Recommendations?

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I'd start at a wrecking yard. See if they've got some in decent shape.
 
Where are you located? What wheel base and trans set up?

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Have your shafts just been sitting out in the weather or what? Not very common for the slip yokes to rust...
 
That's what I found odd. Boots were good and not torn either. 98 QC LB 4WD nv4500 in Portland OR

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I have both shafts, shipping may be alot tho

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Post up a picture. Wonder if they just (a) didn't want to do them or (b) were trying to get you to buy a new shaft from them....

If you have an assortment of sockets and a hammer, you can do your own ujoints at home.
 
Most of the shafts I've had apart have a blue plastic cover over the male slip joint. Also u can still buy the slip joins from spicer. If u want to rebuild the shafts.
 
FWIW, I got a rebuilt front driveshaft from Rock auto for like $250. Slip joint froze on me, and centering ball on the double cardian was shot....to fix it all would have been more than that.

I would take a closer look at the rear shaft.
 
Front slip is frozen. Maybe I can heat it up and shock cool with water to unfreeze it? Plastic on rear driveshaft is all chewed up. Is that replaceable?

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Are one piece the way to go? Who's?

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Getting this thing back together and trans/transfer case are in. Any recommendations for rear driveshaft? One piece? I don't have a lift and just daily drive/tow


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I used driveshaft specialist. I'm sure any reputable drive line store will work.
 
Any issues with the aluminum shafts getting dented by rocks? Local driveline shop recommended against it


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We use an aluminum shaft on the puller. I wouldnt worry about rocks denting it.
 
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