Engine hard parts, what's available?

C

CanadianCarGuy

New member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
103
I am seriously thinking about ripping out my 24valve and doing a serious build right from scratch. I would like to know what is out there as far as hard parts go. What pistons/rings are available, what can I do with the crank as far as lightening, balancing and whatever else people are doing. Does anyone make roller rockers, lighter valvetrain assemblies? What can I do for head work as far as porting and valve jobs go? Thinking of going electric water pump, electric fans to get rid of the clutch fan. Gonna be cutting of that ugly plenum that is part of the head. Thinking of going with a real intake manifold to keep intake charge velocity up and boost pressures down. And yes I will take a sledge hammer to the firewall if I have to! I'd like something that can take 80psi once in awhile. I am already seeing well over 60 with a stock top end. Also this is going to be seeing street duty once a while, so I am not sure about flycut pistons and a high lift cam for daily use. But anything to lighten the rotating mass up a little would be nice. I know that there are some guys out there who can do wonders to the head, but finding them is the tricky part.
 
I would call Shied and ask them. Course, there are many vendors on here you could ask but, that one came to mind.
 
anything is available for a price, the question is what are you looking to achieve and how much are you wanting to spend.

if your on a certain budget and have a certain goal in mind it is easier to determine where to spend your money and where to save it.

but everything is available steel cams, roller rockers, runner intakes, forged pistons, girdles, stroker cranks, billet steel rods, billet blocks and cylinder heads.

A goal and a budget are the most important things to consider before you start a build.

for example if you have a budget spend it on a good injection setup over a custom intake plenum. the gains from a quality injection pump will out do a good cylinder head with a subpar injection pump on it.
 
I am specifically looking for an intake like this but obviously reworked with longer runners to work with the poorly designed 6th cylinder that is stuffed under the firewall.
 

Attachments

  • intake_plenum_skyline1.jpg
    intake_plenum_skyline1.jpg
    24.1 KB · Views: 106
The question was about your end goal...

You can't just throw parts together, especially at that level and expect things to work...
 
How would you think that is throwing parts together?? I have been studying where I want to go with my 24valve for a couple years now and I am not into the same "Bolt On" stuff found on all the trucks in the magazines. Anyone can do that. I would go out and say what I am doing, but then everyone and their dog would be trying to get it done first before me and that they came up with whole thing. You guys will just have to wait and see....I would like to develope my stuff further before I share it, I don't want to hype something up that might not work all that great.
 
Hellman performance for an intake, nice a piece as you can find.

Use stock rods and have the stock pistons moly or ceramic coated.

Crank needs to be heavier to balance out right.

Have the valve seats reworked, they are bad about cracking in the 24V's.

If you want, have the pistons cut a bit, all depends on how much trouble cranking you want.
 
I got one of those already in stainless with a grid heater delete block and grid heaters in the garbage. I heard about these special pistons with plastic side skirts that the monster pump guy was making. Also heard of some crazy head work he was doing, but can't seem to contact the guy ever or find his website anymore. I would be sending the entire rotating assembly including the dampener and flex plate to get balanced as an assembly. Seems to worked nice on my 347 stroker. Going to be ditching the stock fuel filter housing and replacing it with FASS 150gph unit with built in filters. Also gonna be relocating the batteries, and changing up the surpentine belt set up with clutch fan delete, keeping water pump now no need to move it. Will be making room for something special under the hood that needs a belt.
 
Yeah you guessed it. I am wanting to mount a procharger in front of the twins. I have heard a couple guys tried and couldn't get the proper RPM out of the procharger. i am thinking a very large crank pulley is needed to get the right rpms from the charger. I finally popped the head gasket last night, so looks like now is as good of a time as any to tear it out and start from scratch.

I thought about trying a whipple, but that would be too much of a restriction. It would be better to mount the blower after the twins, that way the twins would add power to the crank by pushing the blower. I think that mounting a procharger ahead of the twins would be better because then I am not going backwards from a smaller diameter pipe to a larger one, but rather a continuous reduction of the piping, makes more sense to me, but that would also take away power that may have been added to the blower belt.
 
Last edited:
Come on now, all this can be done for under 30K. All you need is committment. I already have $30k in broken drivetrain parts...plus another 20k in perf parts.

Electric Fan conversion kit = $500
Used F3 Procharger = $3600
Piping = $300
Already have the top end parts, Cam, springs, lifters,
O-ringing = $1500
Balancing of rotating assembly = 1200
Fass 150Gph with filters = $750
All the brackets, belt setup, battery relocation, etc can be done by myself.
I mean really, working on these things are pretty easy. My friend just happens to do machine work and head work for dirt modified race cars so I have cheap labour and machining services there. The only hard part is figuring out how to deal with that POS intake plenum on the head.
 
You need to call Empire Diesel, they already have a bracket made to bolt an F3 onto a Cummins and have a pretty good idea of what ratios to run with the pulleys. Best I remember they have procharger change the internal gearing of the charger itself to keep pulley diameters reasonable. I could be wrong on the gearing change, but I do know they have been talking with the manufacturer on optimizing them for diesels.
 
Just out of curiousity has anyone played around with filling the lower water passages and empty voids of the block? Same idea as some of the modified and stock car engines. Also has anyone mounted there cummins with an engine plate or solid mounts? Been playing around with a few things I have been wanting to try, like a crank scrapper/girdle in one. Also thinking about trying a new kind of steel ring machined from similar steel to the head and block, heard the copper fire rings weren't too great on daily drivers, different expansion rates or something.
 
i think using the procharger in front of a set of twins (not that I really know what you mean by in front) wouldnt be the best, your going to end up with too much restriction. use the procharger as the secondary charger.

a 62-66mm procharger with a tight s400, maybe an 80/88/1.10
 
Filled water passages are nothing new, tends to get hot on anything but a strictly play truck though, no towing OR sitting in traffic in summer. Bad juju on the solid mounts for a DD, race only? Yeah, you can get by with them. No idea on the steel ring, last I checked into it O-ringing the block involved stainless wire, but I haven't looked into it in a couple of years.
 
Yeah, copper rings are a thing of the past... They use stainless now.
 
Well I was looking at how much CFM the F3 is supposed to move and that seems more than what S300/S400 flow added up together. I will have to look into things some more, I might have my info mixed up. I was going to open up the hood and have the F3 open to the air, then into the S400 primary and S300 secondary. The reasoning for this is the F3 on a cog belt should push on the compressor wheels of the turbos forcing them into boost a heck of alot sooner, possibly even enough to overspeed them if one is not careful. I am going to try it without adding more fuel first. Might end up loosing the secondary turbo and just using it like Rollin Coal says, but I'd like to try it my way first.
 
The F3 prochargers flow from 2800cfm to 4000cfm depending on the size. I think the S400 tops out at 1800CFM, not sure about that though had a hard time finding max flow numbers, couldn't find the S300 numbers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top