exhaust brake conversion!!

T

tryblue

New member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
633
I just had a 6.7 turbo conversion done on my 02 24v 6sp truck. It has a fleece standalone controller. I wish I never used the truck with out it. Its awesome. super clean job. excellent power gains with adjustable wastegate(that they helped me understand how and when to adjust) and the best benefit of all. the exhaust brake feature that sounds more like a big truck than the other air leaking sounding ones that don't work. IT works awesome I.ve hauled 8 7 ton loads of hay (plusgoosenecktrailer) total wait of 26, and change in the last week and completely love it. Just some info and feed back for you guys that are looking for exhuast brakes and better performance and miles/to/gallon. They have performed this conversion on 89-98 12 valves, 98 1/2-02 24valves, 03-07 common rails. This was all done at Youngs Farm Service and Repair. 717 578 2572 southeastern pa. Wouldn't take my truck any where else! :rockwoot::rockwoot:
 
Did you buy all the parts yourself and then have the install done and what was your cost roughly?
 
Well as for the price I got the used turbo and manifold. Youngs got all the rest. Roughly with the fleece controller, parts, labor, for everything around 1600-1800. If I get a chance I'll post up some pics, install and the custom work looks great. as for there waranty, besides the used turbo, manifold, if it breaks they cover it completely. some of the nicest guys in the business. Also I priced this job thru fleece. 2500 was a guess.
 
i'm starting to get parts to do this on my 99. the jacobs e-brake i have on works good, i think. but i do hate the whistle that goes along with it, so it should sound better huh?
 
it'll def. sound better! when ever your in pa stop by I'll take ya for a ride
 
I love the e-brake feature as well. Not running a stand alone, but really enjoing the charger:)
 
Got Smoke? said:
Can you post pics of your setup please!
Click to expand...

I've adapted it in a similar manner to others on here. I used the pipe plu method on the turbine housing then re-drilled for t-3 pattern. Cut the oddball exhaust v-band off and had it welded to the hx35 cast elbow so the turbo mounts to my factory exhaust. I welded an arm to the pivot point and use a combination of springs to hold the vanes closed. Drive pressure overcomes the springs and allows the housing to open up. Still experimenting with springs, but it's hard to tune with this winter weather. :nail: The 'start' position is dictated by a 215 governor spring and, as hokey as it sounds, I've got a bike cable with the handle mounted to the shifter for e-brake control. Pull the handle and the cable pulls the vanes shut against the gov spring, let up on the handle and the gov spring pushes back to the 'start' position, which is adjustable with threaded rod and a couple stop nuts. Nice thing is, if I need the charger to light faster say, at the bottom of 3rd gear pulling a load, I just keep some tension on the brake handle so drive pressure won't open the housing and voila! instant 20 psi at 1/8 throttle and the pyro actually drops while coming up through the revs:) The setup is a bit crude (embarrasing looking) but it works well. I'll try and snag some pics this morning. I do have a few of the charger mounted...lemmie look them up.

odball vband welded to hx35 elbow:

t1.jpg


vgt to t3 like it grew there:

t6.jpg


Downpipe to odball v-band:

t5.jpg


Mounted up!

t3.jpg


Pipe plugs-cut em off with a sawzall!

t2.jpg
 
G1625S said:
as hokey as it sounds, I've got a bike cable with the handle mounted to the shifter for e-brake control. Pull the handle and the cable pulls the vanes shut against the gov spring, let up on the handle and the gov spring pushes back to the 'start' position, which is adjustable with threaded rod and a couple stop nuts. Nice thing is, if I need the charger to light faster say, at the bottom of 3rd gear pulling a load, I just keep some tension on the brake handle so drive pressure won't open the housing and voila! instant 20 psi at 1/8 throttle and the pyro actually drops while coming up through the revs:)
Click to expand...


That's what I plan on doing for the exhaust brake also, but my tow pig is a auto so I would have to figure out where to mount the cable.

Yeah your spring setup is what I'm wanting pictures of.....where did you get the springs to do your setup?

Thanks,
 
I'll snap some fresh pics of the springs this morning. The springs were just random ones I found on the floor of the shop[laugh] I think I just got lucky on the rates. One was off the shelf from Lowes, I think, and the other is similar.
 
Sorry, no pics today....bit of an ice storm and the shop was full of actual paying work for a change. I'll try and sneak it in for a photoshot before the big game.
 
G1625S said:
Sorry, no pics today....bit of an ice storm and the shop was full of actual paying work for a change. I'll try and sneak it in for a photoshot before the big game.
Click to expand...

No biggie I don't even have a turbo yet.
 
that's SLICK!!!!!!! :bow::clap::clap::clap:

G1625S said:
I've adapted it in a similar manner to others on here. I used the pipe plu method on the turbine housing then re-drilled for t-3 pattern. Cut the oddball exhaust v-band off and had it welded to the hx35 cast elbow so the turbo mounts to my factory exhaust. I welded an arm to the pivot point and use a combination of springs to hold the vanes closed. Drive pressure overcomes the springs and allows the housing to open up. Still experimenting with springs, but it's hard to tune with this winter weather. :nail: The 'start' position is dictated by a 215 governor spring and, as hokey as it sounds, I've got a bike cable with the handle mounted to the shifter for e-brake control. Pull the handle and the cable pulls the vanes shut against the gov spring, let up on the handle and the gov spring pushes back to the 'start' position, which is adjustable with threaded rod and a couple stop nuts. Nice thing is, if I need the charger to light faster say, at the bottom of 3rd gear pulling a load, I just keep some tension on the brake handle so drive pressure won't open the housing and voila! instant 20 psi at 1/8 throttle and the pyro actually drops while coming up through the revs:) The setup is a bit crude (embarrasing looking) but it works well. I'll try and snag some pics this morning. I do have a few of the charger mounted...lemmie look them up.

odball vband welded to hx35 elbow:

t1.jpg


vgt to t3 like it grew there:

t6.jpg


Downpipe to odball v-band:

t5.jpg


Mounted up!

t3.jpg


Pipe plugs-cut em off with a sawzall!

t2.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Ok, here's the setup as it sits now. It's just tacked together as all I had for scrap was an old muffler clamp, which ironically worked out well. Hopefully the pics explain my explanation from earlier, hehe!

springs.jpg


springs2.jpg
 
G1625S said:
Ok, here's the setup as it sits now.
Click to expand...

So red arrow is exh housing control springs, orange arrow is your choke cable that controls EB? And you push in on the cable from the cab to activate the brake?

Just making sure I'm understanding this correctly, thanks!
 

Attachments

  • VGT springs.jpg
    VGT springs.jpg
    114.7 KB · Views: 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top