Few Small Issues with my rebuilt 47rh...

S

scat

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Aug 6, 2011
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It doesn't like to downshift to 1st when coming to a stop but it will go into 1st if i drop the shifter down. Also the shifts are a bit delayed even at WOT the rpms hang a bit then it snaps to the next one. Little bit on the Trans, Goerend triple disc with 1800 stall, Updated clutch packs with raybestos high energy clutchs, 6 direct, 5 forward, 6 od brake and 11od. All billet updated servos and accumlator. 5 to 1 lever. Has a Trans go HD2 shift kit. As for line pressure i have 100 at idle and 140 at WOT. I backed the TV cable down a bit to see if it helped but nothing really. Trans temp hits about 140 not even 150. It will burn the tires though all gears if that helps at all. Any help would be great.
 
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No i usually have to floor it to shift. Im starting to queston if the gov is even correct. Most ive seen are brass.
 
You have a VB problem.
To check to see about the downshift to first when stopped, I'd start with reading the govenor pressures. It need to be down to 1-2 psi to drop to 1st.
 
scat said:
No i usually have to floor it to shift. Im starting to queston if the gov is even correct. Most ive seen are brass.
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The governor weights in my 47rh are brass. I removed some of the weight with a drill bit and increased my shift RPM. So if you have the opposite problem, you should look into heavier governor weights.

Lighter weight = higher output shaft RPM is required to build the same PSI of governor pressure. Governor pressure is what overcomes the springs in the shift valves and commands shifts.

If it's not downshifting correctly, the governor could be getting hung up on an internal burr or something because lighter weights should downshift faster than heavy governor weights because they should create less governor pressure at low speed, hence they must be getting hung up.


My first suggestion is to connect a pressure gauge to the governor pressure test port and monitor governor pressure as you drive. It should ramp up about 1psi per MPH.
 
If you hold the accelerator on the floor, what RPM does it shift at for: 1-2, 2-3?
 
As for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts it goes at 3900-4200 then it shifts. The gov whats in it has a aluminum weight for it. I never thought about it when i put it back together the few 46rhs ive messed with all has the brass weigh and two longer bolts with steel weight to them. The late shifting could be why it was a core some where down the road. Ill get the gov pressure checked when i get home in a few hours.
 
Governor pressure is dead nuts with mph with the dash and gps. So now im at a loss
 
scat said:
Governor pressure is dead nuts with mph with the dash and gps. So now im at a loss
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I still think the governor is too light and that's your problem.

You can lower the shift points by modifying the spring on the TV valve and going with a shorter or lighter spring rate. You can adjust the TV linkage so that it only goes to about 1/2 throttle when you're at WOT. You can modify the shift valve springs and go with a lighter spring rate.


Or you could find a brass governor and switch it out. Or you could add weight to your aluminum governor.


Think about it this way, at what RPM does a V-10 gas powered Dodge Ram shift when the pedal is on the floor? 3900-4000 plus the 500 rpm flare of the converter so 4500 rpm.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I still think the governor is too light and that's your problem.

You can lower the shift points by modifying the spring on the TV valve and going with a shorter or lighter spring rate. You can adjust the TV linkage so that it only goes to about 1/2 throttle when you're at WOT. You can modify the shift valve springs and go with a lighter spring rate.


Or you could find a brass governor and switch it out. Or you could add weight to your aluminum governor.


Think about it this way, at what RPM does a V-10 gas powered Dodge Ram shift when the pedal is on the floor? 3900-4000 plus the 500 rpm flare of the converter so 4500 rpm.
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Makes complete sense. So with what ambution i had tonight i got my brass one swapped in and also put the stock TV spring back in the valve body. Made sure the brass weight was moving freely when it was even dry in the housing which it was and still has the same thing going on almost. The shifts are a bit earlyer at 3500-3700 but it still doesnt drop down to 1st when i come to a stop. I checked all of the Gov shift plugs on the valve body to see if any of those were hung up and still everything moves freely. I even tryed talking nice to it and still acts the same. :nail:
 
I'm at a loss if it's still having issues. By chance, did you change the tall cone-shaped filter in the governor when you had it opened up, or at least checked-it cleaned-it of debris?


The only other thing you can do to help force it drop into 1st gear as you slow down is to tighten up the tv lever's stop inside on the valvebody. It's the allen headed screw pictured on the right, just turn it in about (2) full turns:

ValvebodyPressure1.jpg


This screw is the low limit stop for the tv lever. If you tighten it, it will still hold some TV pressure when you're completely off the throttle and this will force it to down shift earlier when you're coasting. If you go too far, the tranny will downshift early in the higher gears.

Although this probably isn't the root of the problem since it's still shifting so late WOT 3800 RPM, it will fix the no downshift problem.
 
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For as frustrated as i am with the deal i ordered up a full manual valve body kit. Something has to be wacked with the governor side of the the vb. Ill save my pennys so i can get my hands on a brand new valve body. 470 my cost from the dealer then have someone do it. Had a manual. Valve body in my 56 Dodge truck and i loved it. On and Spence, i have a dual spring set up on my regulator vavle came with the shift kit....
 
Unless you found a sweet deal on left over stock. I was told by Dave G the 47RH vb was no longer being made new. Only rebuilt ones are available and good cores are hard to come by.
 
Sorry for the derail I was pointing out wills orange spring and I've got a blue spring in mine... And with the pressure adjustment maxed completely out I can get 142psi line pressure which is way too low for my power goal IMO. So now I'm wondering how I can get my hands on those springs without buying the whole kit.

Anyways hope ya get it figured out, manual VBs are so fun to drive! Parking is another story haha




Sent from my iPhone during class
 
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