fill block with boring plate or not?

joefarmer

joefarmer

MR. Supreme Overlord
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
6,137
When I fill my CR block, should I have a head or boring plate bolted on to it? Or just take it to the machine shop afterwards and have them finish it after it's filled?

What kind of vibrating is needed or is there someone near Central Ohio that will do it better than I can myself?

The last time it was asked, most preferred Moroso filler. Any other product that I should consider?
 
Fill it, wait a month for total cure then go get machine work finished with a deck plate atached.
 
joefarmer said:
When I fill my CR block, should I have a head or boring plate bolted on to it? Or just take it to the machine shop afterwards and have them finish it after it's filled?

What kind of vibrating is needed or is there someone near Central Ohio that will do it better than I can myself?

The last time it was asked, most preferred Moroso filler. Any other product that I should consider?
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You will want the block fill to cure while the block is in torqued state- torque the main caps and yes a hone plate will do fine on the deck. Just make sure to torque them down to spec.
 
joefarmer said:
When I fill my CR block, should I have a head or boring plate bolted on to it? Or just take it to the machine shop afterwards and have them finish it after it's filled?

What kind of vibrating is needed or is there someone near Central Ohio that will do it better than I can myself?

The last time it was asked, most preferred Moroso filler. Any other product that I should consider?
Click to expand...

Yes. Torque the deck plate down as well as the main studs. I used the Moroso filler, just mix it up thin enough that it flows pretty good.

I also used a head gasket and fire rings to replicate the same stress or force on the deck surface. Can't hurt right?
 
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Most machinist I have spoken with also suggest filling the block and letting it cure with it in its torqued state with mains and head(s)...
 
Moroso filler sure set up nice in the block I just did. When we measured after it was fully cured it wasn't even a 1/2 thou out, wouldn't of though twice about running it as a stock bore. Torqued the head down after running a wire through it and an air hammer works fine for vibration in a pinch. Use a dead blow bit or a piece of sacrificial plate to hammer on.

Used phosphoric acid to clean the water jacket and it don't flash rust instantly like after muratic.
 
Joesixpack said:
Used phosphoric acid to clean the water jacket and it don't flash rust instantly like after muratic.
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Fe + HCl = no joy


McMaster-Carr has some pneumo vibrators available that look like they could be bolted to a block pretty easily.
 
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When I did mine I torqued the mains in, Filled from the top with moroso block fill....When it was full I put a copper gasket with no coolant passages on and torqued the head in, flipped it over...beat the crap out of it with a dead blow....shaked it as much as I could and let it sit for 7 days.
 
Thanks guys!

Shoot me a price for the same copper head gasket but for a CR block, Chase.
 
I use block filler and form passages for the oil cooler. I fill upto 1 1/2 inches below deck surface. Oil temps are a killer! Seems to work for me. I also torque all mains and install deck plate during curing process. We let it sit for a month before machining is done.
 
I let mine cure for a month. Technically concrete needs 28 days to fully cure. Probably not necessary though.
 
Bponci said:
I use block filler and form passages for the oil cooler. I fill upto 1 1/2 inches below deck surface. Oil temps are a killer! Seems to work for me. I also torque all mains and install deck plate during curing process. We let it sit for a month before machining is done.
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Curious, is that the fill level you use for CR blocks too? I've seen most of the CR blocks fail at the very top, but I'm not knowledgable enough to make the call if mine needs to be filled all the way to help out.
 
Bponci said:
I use block filler and form passages for the oil cooler. I fill upto 1 1/2 inches below deck surface. Oil temps are a killer! Seems to work for me. I also torque all mains and install deck plate during curing process. We let it sit for a month before machining is done.
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explain or show pic on the oil cooler passages please.:Cheer:
 
If anyone is interested I am working on having some boring/honing/torque plates made up. If we get a couple people interested I can get them done cheaper. Going to be in the $600 range if I just make one. Will get some pictures once I get the one for me done.
 
shortbusdriver said:
If anyone is interested I am working on having some boring/honing/torque plates made up. If we get a couple people interested I can get them done cheaper. Going to be in the $600 range if I just make one. Will get some pictures once I get the one for me done.
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I'd be interested. Make them work for 6.7 and 5.9?
 
shortbusdriver said:
If anyone is interested I am working on having some boring/honing/torque plates made up. If we get a couple people interested I can get them done cheaper. Going to be in the $600 range if I just make one. Will get some pictures once I get the one for me done.
Click to expand...

Do you know if anyone has an idea on what keating's price is for theirs? They have them listed on their website
 
He said he doesn't have any right now. But once he does it would be $500-$600 range. Hoping if we get a couple guys together I can beat that price pretty easy.
 
joefarmer said:
Curious, is that the fill level you use for CR blocks too? I've seen most of the CR blocks fail at the very top, but I'm not knowledgable enough to make the call if mine needs to be filled all the way to help out.
Click to expand...

I haven't one a common rail block yet. Im refering to a 12 valve.
 
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