First Drive Went Horribly Wrong!!

kasey200

kasey200

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Sep 24, 2006
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877
Well if you've been following my build you know i've been having some troubles lately finishing up my 1997 12v build. Last night i finished up installing the valair dd and got everything else buttoned up. FINALLY!!!
Anyway, I took it around the block real slow and came right back to the house to check all the fluids ect. and all was good. I grabbed my girlfriend and we were going to grab a bite to eat when it all went south!:bang
About 6 blocks from my house when i pulled out onto the main road i accelerated slowly(less than 10psi boost) and then heard a "pop" or a "bang" looked in the mirror and saw a cloud of smoke, couldn't tell what color it was dark out, and the truck shut off.
Now it will turn over freely but doesn't even consider firing! Where do i start guys? Does is sound like a headgasket? (please say no) I had the head oringed, ARP's installed and torqued 4 times to 125# with one heatcycle included. I didn't look really close but i can't see anything leaking. the oil looks clear and the antifreeze is still bright green.
 
I'm no mechanic, but it doesn't sound like a head gasket to me. I would first check that the timing didn't slip.
 
Make sure that pop wasnt the fuel solenoid shutting off first. Did you make any changes to the pump while it was tore down?
 
Doesn't sound like a headgasket. Check the obvious stuff first. Is it getting fuel? As mentioned above, is the fuel solenoid still working properly? Fuel pump still providing fuel to the injection pump? Is it still getting air thru the turbo's? You didn't leave a rag in an intake pipe that got sucked into the turbo and plugged it?

If none of the above, I would check to see if the timing didn't slip... The bang or pop leads me here, but I'd check the obvious stuff first.
 
Thanks guys. I double and tripple checked that there was not a rag in the intake or anything because I've heard bad stories about that happening! The solenoid was the first thing checked last night and it is working. I even had my buddy crack an injector line while I turned the motor over to see if there was fuel there and there was. I will be checking the timing tonight. What is the best way to get the gear to hold if that is what actually happened. I tryed to clean the shaft off with brake cleaner and blew it off with compressed air and torqued it to 165# if i remember correctly. Do I need a new washer? I just tried to re-bend the stocker.
 
If timing is slipping new washer would be the first thing i'd replace. Maybe a new nut as well. It's solved my slipping issues in the past. If the head gasket went the motor should still run albeit very poorly unless it was a total catostrphic failure. If it's not firing that sounds like fueling of some sort.
 
NickTF said:
If timing is slipping new washer would be the first thing i'd replace. Maybe a new nut as well. It's solved my slipping issues in the past. If the head gasket went the motor should still run albeit very poorly unless it was a total catostrphic failure. If it's not firing that sounds like fueling of some sort.
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I agree, the motor still turns freely. I am goin to find a washer today and check the timing after work tonight.
 
There is an updated pump nut to use that has more threads for better engagement on the shaft. Might want to put one of those on? And use a new lock washer, I just used one that was grade 8 equivalent from the hardware store. I think this is an updated nut...

Pure Diesel Power
 
Do not worry about the torque spec for the nut on the pump, turn it until it starts to turn the motor over, then it is tight enough. Definitely sounds like slipped timing to me.
 
You may still get fuel when cranking because there is not enough resistance to get the gear to slip... it could be injecting fuel at a completely wrong point, hence all the smoke and it wont start at 180* out or anywhere close to it. Put more than 165 ft/lbs on it... we typically go to 2ft/TJ's at which point the motor starts to turn. At least its not an expensive fix, just frustrating.
 
BigErk77 said:
You may still get fuel when cranking because there is not enough resistance to get the gear to slip... it could be injecting fuel at a completely wrong point, hence all the smoke and it wont start at 180* out or anywhere close to it. Put more than 165 ft/lbs on it... we typically go to 2ft/TJ's at which point the motor starts to turn. At least its not an expensive fix, just frustrating.
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LOL- the 2ft/TJ's is good. You use a 2 ft breaker bar, with one learge and heavy bodied TJ on the end. when the motor turns over its tight.

My timing slipped on my first drive after doing the p-pump swap. same deal, rolled into the throttle lightly, heard a loud pop followed by a couple smaller ones. Like guns shots or a backfiring from the stack.

Limped back to the shop with tons of white smoke, no power. Re-set the timing and its been good ever since. BTW if you are in a pinch and can't get a new washer tonight, inspect yours, there should be a slight bend or curve it in which helps to apply pressure. I was in a bind and didn't have a new washer, so I locked mine in a bench vise, and rebent it to put the slight bend back in it. its been holding at 26* and then at 30* now up to 5k rpms.
 
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