fly wheel bolts

Well if you look at the convertor it only has 7 spots on it also.
 
Judging from the holes in the back of the crank that seven came loose and one stayed tight. Looks like only one hole in the pic is any good. The one at about the 5 oclock position.
 
MAXTORQ said:
Bill at DTT told me to grind off any powder coat on those flexplates . Since then I believe the plates are anodized gold.

I use thread sealant on flexplate bolts for that very reason . The stuff won't harden up but still keeps the bolts inplace and does not back out.
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I know who to see if mine falls off!!:poke:
 
Back on topic. IMO might be a good idea to check the balance on the flexplate. Make sure it's not warped or anything. JM.02
 
Mine has done that once as well...didn't hurt the crank, but at idle it sounds like a rod coming through the side of the block;)

DTT Billet Flex...now it has new bolts, and red loctite. If it comes out again, I'm putting a different plate in it and see if that makes a difference!

Chris
 
Slow Mo said:
Jared ,I didnt say it didnt were away cause it did along with about .030" of the metal,just that it wasn,t chipped or cracked next to holes.And my flexplate was black not gold anodize.

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and thanks for keeping this constructive and not bashing .Right now I,m just trying to figure out my options.And speaking of which opinons on helicoiling or over size bolts on crank (ya I,m not crazy about either but alternative is yanking motor and replacing crank which finacially is probably not a good choice either,job not real secure, and ya realize oversize would mean drill new flexplate that I,m not really fond of)
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This is fixable, Forget about changing the crank......I imagined the holes way more slopped out than they are, but first, what pilots that flex plate?

Is it only the bolts?, you know how the stock original has the 4 tabs that center it out, I hope it has some sort of pilot on the outer diameter of the end of the crank.

Helicoil those holes, if the plate don't have a good pilot, get another brand.

Check for run-out, I like to do it with the converter I plan on installing, my own truck got it down to .001

Even the bolts that fasten the plate to the converter will effect the runout a bit, and can use that bit to balance it a bit more.

Torque them right, and you'll be good to go!
 
Hey I,m back.Thanks Jared and Maxtorq after to talking to a couple guys not on this site I,m now also completely convinced that the problem was the powdercoat like you guys said.Ive also been talking to the trans builder who did the install (a major sponsor on this site),and he,s accepting no responsibilty for this and blaming it on all my parts block trans adapter plate ,and mounting surface of trans bell housing ,Ive checked both on a surface plate and are .002 or less flatness and besides these were virtually brand new when this all started (less than 8000 miles STOCK no abuse !) .I,m actually still under DTT warranty until friday ,but relize that pretty much means nothing!

Yes I plan on helicoiling crank I started making a drill jig this after noon.

Also yes only 7 bolts backed out one was still tight and it did sound like a rod coming thru the block,and fly wheel does pilot on crank hub the picture doesn,t show that,but I might be using a laminated one this time.
Thanks for everyones imput at least now I kinda have a plan.
 
You may want to drill all your bolt heads and wire them together after finale torque.I did this on a gasser drag car I used to have.

Bob.
 
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