Ford 9"

yeah i have a stearling here, massive axle. has 3.07's in it, but i don't trust the brake set up on it for street driving, and has no e brake.
 
What is wrong with the brake setup? Is it factory or some aftermarket conversion? Just curious...
 
One thing I'll say to that is you never really ever hear of people breaking pinion's on 9" or dana 60's, unless you start getting in stupid high gears which in the diesel world we dont run.

I sheared off the pinion in a 3.00 and 3.70 gear, Then just broke pinion and ring gear teeth on ratios 3.50 and 3.25. It's the small dia. of the 28 spline pinion that wont hold the torque with 60's in the 1.30's @ 4500+ lbs. Never hurt another since going to the 35 spline pro gears, ran them in 3.40 and 3.89.
 
What is wrong with the brake setup? Is it factory or some aftermarket conversion? Just curious...

its a set of weld on tabs for chevy front calipers, i built the axle for my jeep, just dont trust it on the street, if something ever happed im sure the at fault insurance company would be all over something like that
 
its a set of weld on tabs for chevy front calipers, i built the axle for my jeep, just dont trust it on the street, if something ever happed im sure the at fault insurance company would be all over something like that

Kind of what I figured, makes sense. If you're planning on staying FF you could look into the super duty disc brake stuff...
 
i would just buy bolt on ones for whatever i run, as of right now im going to narrow a 70
 
Any of you guys try the 35 spline pinion from Richmond gears? I'm going with the 35-spline 4.86 ring/pinion set-up, for my 9in 40 spline spool, fab rear housing. Most of the 9in stuff is 28 spline pinion.
 
IDK if your full floating comment is about afraidw/ the 9", but if a shaft breaks the axle wont come out, its got a clap by the flange which holds the axle in case of breakage IIRC.

You going to be running those tires front and rear or is it a 2wd and just the rear? Cause youll have almost 2k in tires and tubes, if you go with all 4.

Yeah, not trusting my ass to a sheet metal cap...Dana 80 is stronger, without a doubt, cheaper too;)

2wd...I have 8 tires sitting here, 4 new, 4 slightly used, for less than $650...Yes, I'll need tubes, but 8 tires should last a pretty good while, and I have less than what 2 new ones cost. It's all about finding the right deals:D


Fact of the matter is, for my truck, even with paying someone to do the axle work, the Dana 80 I had sitting here was WAAAAY cheaper than building the 9" I have here too, that would still need to be narrowed.
Chris
 
yeah the more i think about it, the more full float is the way to go, the extra 70lbs is worth it.
 
well its extra rotational weight, but still rather have it than loose a wheel at 130mph
 
well its extra rotational weight, but still rather have it than loose a wheel at 130mph

X2...I've heard a few times a 9" won't lose a wheel if you break an axle, but I've still seen them do it...I'm just not comfortable with a non-floater

Chris
 
You guys run a spool for the 9in? There are no c clips when you use a spool. They do make custom axles that have retainers on the out side of the housing. Lots of guys running that axle run wy more power than what we have.
 
You guys run a spool for the 9in? There are no c clips when you use a spool. They do make custom axles that have retainers on the out side of the housing. Lots of guys running that axle run wy more power than what we have.

There are no c-clips when you don't run a spool with a 9" too. Think about it... How would you get the c-clip in a 9" if it ran one?
 
The axle should break at the inside the spool or near the spool should it not. The retainer plate/outer bearing on the outside of the 9in housing should keep the axle from taking off, on an event of axle breakage?

I do agree that there are no inner clips on a 9in, regardless if its a spool or not.
 
The bearing is pressed on the axle and that is what retains the axle. The axle is retained by a flange which is attatched with 4 bolts that hold the bearing in the housing. You would have to have the axle spin in the bearing or a bad bearing for the axle to shoot out. I agree a full floater is the way to go in a 4500lb vehicle. But not in my case. A D80 would be retarded in my car and changing the gears would suck azz. That is my opinion. And besides if you don't get super cheap deals on your d80 parts, that crap adds up quick. We're building one for a pulling truck and we'll have a crap ton in it. Who ever says they are cheap to build must not be buying all this stuff. LOL Full spool with SCS axles and good gears. That's $1850 before bearings and seals. Yeah that's cheap! I wish we could run a 106 but the class won't allow it.
 
yeah but a stock dana 80 will hold up to quite a bit for drag racing i think is what he means
 
You have to understand why the pinion can be smaller in diameter. It is due to the third bearing supporting it. The Dana axles rely on only two bearings, so the shaft diameter must be larger to help control deflection.


That IS NOT the reason for that 3rd bearing support.....

The DANA is WAY stronger then the ford.... if you lose that 3rd bearing or break it....the 9" will come apart viciously....

That 3rd bearing is engineered and HAS to be there..BECAUSE of the 2 bearings in the pin assembly being TOO CLOSE to eachother.....




We seem to have some smart people in this thread so answer this question.
What rear do you recommend for a 4500lbs Pro Street truck running 9's?
2 options:
1. Unlimited budget
2. Limited budget, lets say $2k or less.
Full Floater for safety.
Light as possible.
3.54 ratio or less.

Whatcha Got? :)



Dana 60, or the AAM 10.5 or 11.5.

I don't believe there are spools for the AAM yet...

So i would go with the D-60 and if need be, for the lower gear ratio...just run a larger tire...
If that is a problem have them made.....

No need to run a T/F tire, when you can have tires made with the softer compound on the radial or non radial design..

This kinda tire cheating goes on in oval racing all the time.... no race tires... get em retreaded with the race compound...



Since money isn't an option i would lighten the hubs, ring, spool, gun drill the axles....and anything else that spins...and mikronite the gears...and run a lighter oil..



..
 
So i would go with the D-60 and if need be, for the lower gear ratio...just run a larger tire...
If that is a problem have them made.....

No need to run a T/F tire, when you can have tires made with the softer compound on the radial or non radial design..

This kinda tire cheating goes on in oval racing all the time.... no race tires... get em retreaded with the race compound...

that has to be the stupidest thing ive heard in a long time.

gee my axle doesnt go lower than 3.55's let me run a custom made 35" slick on my lowered 2wd truck. :kick:
 
That IS NOT the reason for that 3rd bearing support.....

The DANA is WAY stronger then the ford.... if you lose that 3rd bearing or break it....the 9" will come apart viciously....

That 3rd bearing is engineered and HAS to be there..BECAUSE of the 2 bearings in the pin assembly being TOO CLOSE to eachother.....






Dana 60, or the AAM 10.5 or 11.5.

I don't believe there are spools for the AAM yet...

So i would go with the D-60 and if need be, for the lower gear ratio...just run a larger tire...
If that is a problem have them made.....

No need to run a T/F tire, when you can have tires made with the softer compound on the radial or non radial design..

This kinda tire cheating goes on in oval racing all the time.... no race tires... get em retreaded with the race compound...



Since money isn't an option i would lighten the hubs, ring, spool, gun drill the axles....and anything else that spins...and mikronite the gears...and run a lighter oil..



..

I was wondering if anyone would answer my question.
I will keep that in mind if I break the D80 I'm currently running.
I'm allready running a big tire so thats taken care of.
 
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