Great news and sad news

madmikeismad

madmikeismad

So mad
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
14,347
Great news: I got Lee's 5x.016's in, and they are awesome, especially with the new 63. Also got my topper off today, and got my stack welded together. I'll get pics up eventually.

Sad news; I'm having TC issues again. When it hits 3rd, the TC locks immediately. Doesn't matter if OD is locked out or not. So for now I'm shifting manually up to 3rd/auto lockup, and then turn OD on when RPM's are high enough. And on top of that, with the key on and truck not running, there is clicking sound that sounds like a coffee maker coming from the trans pan/vb area. Solenoid gone bad?


PS: All in all, it was a good first day back in the states.
 
weelcome back bro. pm me your address, ill send you that shift kit, maybe you can use it
CompD Mobile Device
 
LOL, funny how that comes back to the surface. I talked to early lol. Even just for curiosity, I'm dying to know what the hell is causing this issue. I think it's partially the same problem I had with lockup last winter when I changed both the governer sensor and solenoid.

EDIT: I really need to swap to 4.10's too LOL. 80mph at 1500rpm is really robbing me. My EGT's are at about 900 cruising.
 
Last edited:
Update on the noise from the trans pan. It's progressed from the coffee maker sound to a fast and steady ticking sound. And it's still instantly locking up when it hits 3rd.
 
Last I checked the converter is supposed to lock immediately when it shifts in to 3rd, then unlocks to transition into OD, and then lock back up immediately.
 
Check the trans relay. I had that same noise going on in the pan with the key on and a jumper wire installed instead of the relay for my lock-up switch. Put the relay back in and no more noise. The solenoid could be going bad but the relay is an easy check and you can swap it with another in the PDC.
 
Dusterb318 said:
Check the trans relay. I had that same noise going on in the pan with the key on and a jumper wire installed instead of the relay for my lock-up switch. Put the relay back in and no more noise. The solenoid could be going bad but the relay is an easy check and you can swap it with another in the PDC.
Click to expand...

Is it possible to run the lockup switch without the jumper? i haven't had the relay in there for a couple years now, what causes it to suddenly do this? Funny thing, I just found the relay yesterday when I was sorting through old parts. Now I gotta remember where I put it LOL

Thanks for the idea.
 
It works on mine. After that started I put the relay back in and it works fine...in my truck anyway. I noticed the noise when I had the key on when I was tinting the windows. The key was one for a while and it started. I pulled the wire and it quit. Put the relay in and no more issues with the key on and the switch works same as with the jumper. Don't know if that will fix your issue but it's worth a shot and easier than dropping pan.
 
Awesome. I'll have to try that. Thanks a ton!

Update: Started shifting fine again on the way to the truck pull, but clicky noise is still there. Gonna try the relay tomorrow.
 
So haven't gotten back home yet to get the relay, but I turned pressure down a little bit via the TV cable, and it's pretty much locking up perfectly now, and OD is actually getting a chance before lockup. I'm hoping that is all it was.

I don't get what made it suddenly act up though. All I can think, is the last time I ran it, it was -30 outside, so maybe the oil was super thick or something.
 
If you don't run a jumper in place of the trans relay, you won't be able to lock the converter in 2nd gear. The jumper sends power to the transmission solenoids at all times meaning you can turn them on/off whenever you choose via the toggle switch. If you run the factory relay, it only sends power to the solenoids when the transmission is in 3rd or 4th gear.

Remember, the lock-up switch only alters the ground side of the circuit. If the 12v positive side of the solenoid isn't powered up, the lock-up switch does nothing. The "jumper" in lieu of relay provides constant 12v power to the solenoids.
 
I guess I don't need to fix it anymore. Besides shifting and locking correctly, it also unlocks when I slow down without me having to hit the brakes. Thats something it hasn't done since I replaced the TPS with the POT.
 
These 98' 12 valves have to much electronic stuff going on and not enough processor to control it (trans wise). It's one thing I hate with my trans. Line pressure can cause funny things with them and make the solenoids and shift valves act all goofy if they see to much. Mine would blow through 2nd at part throttle because the line pressure was enough to stroke both valves....Talked to Jeff Garmon on the phone about getting a VB and he told me I just needed to play with the TV cable some more and sure enough it fixed it as well as it's going to be according to Jeff. Glad you got it fixed and Thanks for the heads up on the relay vs jumper wire Big Blue.
 
Another update: The ticking continues for about 20 seconds after you shutoff the key. Is that just residual charge, like when LED's take a while to die after power is cut?
 
madmikeismad said:
Another update: The ticking continues for about 20 seconds after you shutoff the key. Is that just residual charge, like when LED's take a while to die after power is cut?
Click to expand...

That is the "Chunchit" valve powering down. No worries then.. LMAO Welcome Home. Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top