Guy running dry block wet head question

J

johndeere1

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Oct 29, 2012
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Changed the setup this year on a open driveline truck. Went with a dry block and a wet head currently running a Meziere water pump. Question is looking at down sizing from the factory radiator and going to a smaller one, so I can re-locate my air water. What radiator has anyone switched to when down sizing that works. Thanks for you input
 
3 row Honda Civic radiator with the fabricated aluminum shroud and 12" fan.

Small, light, easy to mount, and about $125 on ebay.
 
In running same setup, and am running a 16x18x2" universal radiator and an electric fan blowing out not ducking the heat back into the motor
 
Depending upon which class you are running and if you have a tow vehicle it really isn't necessary to run water at all.
 
Run it empty and throw all the cooling system stuff in the trash. Talk about one less major headache. I have a tow vehicle and a good oil cooler and usually my oil temps are around ~150 after a pass. When I didn't have a tow vehicle they would be around ~180. Two passes per night were not a problem.
 
Agree. Throw it all away. Put an oil temp sensor in and have fun. You will be surprised how long one can run around without I'll temp getting high.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Run it empty and throw all the cooling system stuff in the trash. Talk about one less major headache. I have a tow vehicle and a good oil cooler and usually my oil temps are around ~150 after a pass. When I didn't have a tow vehicle they would be around ~180. Two passes per night were not a problem.
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What are you running for an oil cooler?
 
Most of us do not run an oil cooler. I have an 18 quart oil pan and temps rarely exceed 160 dgrs after a run. Like stated above...throw the water system in the trash for pulling, fill the block and the head as well.
 
prostockpuller said:
Most of us do not run an oil cooler. I have an 18 quart oil pan and temps rarely exceed 160 dgrs after a run. Like stated above...throw the water system in the trash for pulling, fill the block and the head as well.
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Let’s say one was on a budget and decided to go dry block/head without filling them. Curious to hear anyone’s opinion...
 
Whats not in the budget for block filler? Its like 50 bucks worth of Hard Blok to do a block and head. Only reason my head is dry is because I bought it used and didnt want the cement to harden up and make it move around.

Also I am running a small Derale cooler with a Petersen releif valve. However I hardly use the fan on the cooler unless I am making two passes or its like 100 degrees out and I have to drive the truck around the pits.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Whats not in the budget for block filler? Its like 50 bucks worth of Hard Blok to do a block and head. Only reason my head is dry is because I bought it used and didnt want the cement to harden up and make it move around.

Also I am running a small Derale cooler with a Petersen releif valve. However I hardly use the fan on the cooler unless I am making two passes or its like 100 degrees out and I have to drive the truck around the pits.
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Budget was probably the wrong choice of word. Basically was wondering of anyone running dry block and no filler. I don’t see how concrete helps all that much
 
Throw the cooling system parts in the trash. Ran a filled block and a head that wasnt filled for years with no coolant.
 
My block is not filled, but it is a deck plate engine. I’ve seen more then a handful of filled blocks break, I’d say it’s marginal how much it helps for the cylinder pressure we try to push.
 
dmigz57 said:
What’s pointless is that you obviously missed the point in what I was getting at.
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If I could, I'd respond with a pic of my ballsack.

dmigz57 said:
Budget was probably the wrong choice of word. Basically was wondering of anyone running dry block and no filler. I don’t see how concrete helps all that much
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I don't think it does much more than give people a warm fuzzy feeling.
 
I like to run a filled block and dry but not filled head. In attempt to save valves I like to get heat out of the head and if needed you can run a leaf blower directly into the head between passes.
 
Persingerpulling said:
My block is not filled, but it is a deck plate engine. I’ve seen more then a handful of filled blocks break, I’d say it’s marginal how much it helps for the cylinder pressure we try to push.
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nobody cares about what you are running:poke: well besides me. sleeved engines are a much different breed. I would say it depends on the application. imo anyway to add strength to a block or dampn harmonics, the better. I would believe some strength is lost in thermo properties in a empty block. Cylinder heads I am on the fence about filling them. on my engines or heads they are not filled, unless it is for a sponsorship and my arm gets twisted hard enough.
 
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