Harmonic Dampners???

I have an ATI and it looks great, BUT you need to either run an adapter that pushes the fan clutch out a 1/2" to clear the bolts OR run and electric fan... I'm having an adapter made... but you think they would have countersunk ALL the required bolts, not just 6 of the 9 :(
 
Over in the ford forum they had a group buy while back I PMd Powerstrokeracer but havnt heard nothing mayb we can start a group buy ???
 

I second that

Even funnier. Those fools borrowed my stock damper and tone ring to build a damper for a CR almost 2 years ago and it's still not out. Trust me, they know so little about diesels in that place it's almost laughable. A-B between the 2 brands on the same engine and it is obvious.

When I chose my dampr I went by who has been building them for diesel. Fluid dampr is also part of Vibratech TVD I think they know a thing or two about damprs.
 
Over in the ford forum they had a group buy while back I PMd Powerstrokeracer but havnt heard nothing mayb we can start a group buy ???

Thats who I got mine from, I think it was about $410? I'm not sure if the group buy is still happening... I bought mine months ago, hell, I've had it for 2 months I bet.
 
I bought the ATI direct from them for $450 shipped to my door. I agreed with what the guy on the phone had to say about the diff between Fluiddamper and ATI. I am sure you guys dont want to read everythiing i was told so before you buy, atleast call them and listen to what they have to say. Then decied which one you want to go with. I'll bet what they say will make sense to most of you like it did me. The degree marks work awesome for timing. I used a dial indicator and found true TDC. Bolted the damper on and marked the degree it was at. Then i had my pump set at 25* so should the gear slip i can allways go right back to 25 in a flash. Plus i can go up or down from there about as close to exact as you can get quickly.

On the other side of this, i agree with Jflagg that they could have countersunk all the bolts.

TIM
 
So that must be why most of the Modified Diesel Pulling Tractors run what? And for how long have they been? I have heard that with the fluidamprs, on the 5.9's, there is a weird vibration that starts in at 4200 and it never clears out. That is why you see a lot of the mod guys switching to ATI.

I had a Fluidamper on the original BBD and have one on BBDII for the last two years with no issues.

BBD
 
I had a Fluidamper on the original BBD and have one on BBDII for the last two years with no issues.

BBD

How stock is your rotating assembly? The info I have heard from numerous people who have ran the fluidamprs and switched to the ATI's had unbalanced stock rotating assemblies. I'm not saying the fluidamprs are bad, it just sounds like they aren't the best if you plan on spinning over 4200rpm's on a stock bottom end.
 
Let me do some digging, I have it written down somewhere. But really, I priced it through Cummins, and to buy the cummins version, you are looking at around $700 or more to get the dampner, pulley, and spacer. I would just buy a fluidampr or ATI, whatever you prefer. I got lucky and purchased a core industrial engine that had one on it already.
 
I wonder if the manufactures listen and or read here, it seems like good buss. since to make changes to products to better fit the user. It seems many agree Fluidampr needs to add the timing marks to thiers and ATI has a bolt protrusion issue that could be fixed rather than adding spacers for those that run a mech. fan. Im waiting for a new tach to come in and depending on its signal needed I will decide what to do about a dampner.... I just know that 360* timing marks are ness. for me. Ryan
 
I'm not saying the fluidamprs are bad, it just sounds like they aren't the best if you plan on spinning over 4200rpm's on a stock bottom end.


I was told that the vibration occured at those rpm's with the stock damper, and suggested to pick up either damper to cure it on my old 97. Fluidampr went on that truck, and it's smooth as silk way past 4k. Can't tell you exact RPM's, it still had the stock tach, but was wrapping around.
 
I've read good things about both ATI & Fluidamper, but I chose Fluidamper. I don't turn the rpms that some of the guys posting do [like Scott], but I like my Fluidamper. You can tell its working the minute you install it & I've never heard any nasty vibrations above 4k rpm.
 
How stock is your rotating assembly? The info I have heard from numerous people who have ran the fluidamprs and switched to the ATI's had unbalanced stock rotating assemblies. I'm not saying the fluidamprs are bad, it just sounds like they aren't the best if you plan on spinning over 4200rpm's on a stock bottom end.

Stock bottom end on BBD1 turning close, if not slightly over 5K rpm's.

BBD
 
I have read more than a few places, including a version by Cummins that these motors have a serious (explosion serious) issue at 4200 rpm, after that it slowly goes away - kinda like an unbalanced tire that shakes at a certain rpm only

I can tell you that if you go to the Scat crankshaft website that they will tell you they will NOT warranty a crankshaft that has had a Fluidampr on it as they have proved time and again that viscous dampers can and do cause crankshaft breakage They will only recommend a torsianal rubber style elastomeric damper.

To prove a point - show me a single nascar motor with a viscous damper on it - you wont find one - for the same reasons - they are all elastomerics

the reason a fluid damper or similar damper doesnt work well - like any other liquid - it will roll up and be heavier in places, even if only momentarily - does it do a good job of dampening vibrations - sure - thats what unconnected liquid does - but thats no good if it is going momentarily out of balance all the time
 
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