duck_04
resident quack
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2010
- Messages
- 3,903
head gasket
- Thread starter gwhammy
- Start date
Scooter's Roofing
New member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2006
- Messages
- 17,007
LMGDAO!!!!!!!!!!!
I think the lesson here is don't try to save money on head studs. They're not that expensive. Buy them from somebody who has been making them for ever and specializes in fasteners
Tate
What?
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Messages
- 3,419
I have to agree, theres probably not a metal made that doesn't move a little. My first head gasket blew everywhere but no compression rings on the gasket were blown. This tells me the head lifted. I checked my head and it's not mirror smooth. If the finish of the head was the cause of the gasket blowing it would be pushing the rings out, is my thinking right on this? The type of lube used on the washers and nuts has as much to do with torque and the torque rating on the nut. If to much of the torque is taken up by friction your not getting a true clamp.
My thoughts are these are a good product, I think the torque rating is low for high cylinder pressures and they need to come with a really good lube so that is a non issue. Would I by another set, I'll let you know by weeks end.
Just because it's not a proven product like arp or A-1 doesn't mean it's not any good but I have to agree saying max torque is 100 to 105 and then tell you to go to 115 max is wrong. Then telling you put them at 125 and they are holding fine really throws the red flag up.
Has anyone else had gasket problems because of head surface finish useing the other brands of studs? If not this should not be an issue with these studs.Maybe a video torqueing these with a dial indicator on the end and torque them till they break would prove whether they stretch or not.
My thoughts are these are a good product, I think the torque rating is low for high cylinder pressures and they need to come with a really good lube so that is a non issue. Would I by another set, I'll let you know by weeks end.
Just because it's not a proven product like arp or A-1 doesn't mean it's not any good but I have to agree saying max torque is 100 to 105 and then tell you to go to 115 max is wrong. Then telling you put them at 125 and they are holding fine really throws the red flag up.
Has anyone else had gasket problems because of head surface finish useing the other brands of studs? If not this should not be an issue with these studs.Maybe a video torqueing these with a dial indicator on the end and torque them till they break would prove whether they stretch or not.
Got the head on. Torqued the head to 135 lbs. then went over them and a few of them moved. Went over them again and none moved. I've drove it around 200 miles since and just did check on the ones I could get to and none of them moved. With them not moving this time they ought to be good but still thinking about taking it easy and bumping the boost a more then giving them one more check. I'm hoping this is it. The studs felt real good torqueing with the moly with graphite grease I used. No grab just a steady pull on the torque.My thinking is the lube used is just as important as the torque used on studs.
I talked to a tractor puller today that uses these studs and has no problems out of them. I'm not saying one way or the other till I throw alot more power at them. They torqued nice look to be of decent quality on the machining. Time will tell.
They have 12 point nuts with them not 6 like the pictures shows. The nice part I like about these is they don't require bottom tap and they clear the valve covers with no grinding.
I talked to a tractor puller today that uses these studs and has no problems out of them. I'm not saying one way or the other till I throw alot more power at them. They torqued nice look to be of decent quality on the machining. Time will tell.
They have 12 point nuts with them not 6 like the pictures shows. The nice part I like about these is they don't require bottom tap and they clear the valve covers with no grinding.