Head Studs

All but the back one on the drivers side can. I think it is easier to just pull the motor, but that is just my opinion.
 
What are you doing that you need studs for? If you have stock rods, you should stick with bolts, good to 45-50psi. Better off blowing a head gasket with bolts then studs holding too much & damaging the motor.
 
I think you can losen up and lift the cab up a little to get them all in as well if you didn't want to pull the engine... or so I've heard.


C-ya
 
GRotman said:
All but the back one on the drivers side can. I think it is easier to just pull the motor, but that is just my opinion.
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Pulling the motor is way easier then removing all the crap to get at the studs in the truck. Doing studs in the truck is a solid two project for me.
 
If you pull the head off, put the stud in the head, slide it back into position, and screw the studs into the block, you dont have to pull the motor.
 
I'm just throwing out an Idea here, not sure I need to do it, but the water pump leak got me thinking and worrying about how much the stockers would take.I run a PPE hot +2ET a the track with a lift pump. The last time I put it on Dunbar's Rollers I turned right at 470. I want to add just a little more but this has me thinking about the Heads and what they will take??
 
Phil you are MORE than fine with stock head bolts. The duramax's hold boost on stock bolts very well. My buddy is running 47-49psi with an Aurora 5000 on stock head bolts on his 2005 LLY. He has 50-something thousand miles on his truck and zero problems.

Im running 40+ psi with my aftermarket turbo and just turned 84k miles. No problems at all.

ben
 
That makes me feel much better, I just don't want to lift a head and know I could have prevented it with Stud's
 
wideopen said:
That makes me feel much better, I just don't want to lift a head and know I could have prevented it with Stud's
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lifting heads is much easier to fix than a shortened rod.. and you need a good 45-50psi to left them.:ft:
 
wideopen said:
???? What ????


So You guys don't think I need Studs with a Stock Turbo and Injectors..How much boost will Stock stuff hold?:charger:
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Whoops!:bang

Solid two day project.


With a stock turbo I would not worry about studs.
 
another few questions, if you add 50hp nozzles and run stock turbo still no need for studs? then waht about if added a 2.6 turbo? also is it like a PSD if you blow a gasket you weaken the rod? and it wont live long?
 
house said:
another few questions, if you add 50hp nozzles and run stock turbo still no need for studs? then waht about if added a 2.6 turbo? also is it like a PSD if you blow a gasket you weaken the rod? and it wont live long?
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no HB go b4 the rod bend on the dmax
 
unless your truck is like mine and blew a headgasket with only 32 psi of boost with a stock turbo.

people have bent rods with no head studs.
 
house said:
another few questions, if you add 50hp nozzles and run stock turbo still no need for studs? then waht about if added a 2.6 turbo? also is it like a PSD if you blow a gasket you weaken the rod? and it wont live long?
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no point in putting bigger injectors on a dmax. stock injectors will do 700rwhp. You run out of stock CP3 capacity before you run out of injector flow.

blown head gaskets are not common on dmax's.
 
on a PSD when you blow the gasket it weakens the rod from the spike in cylinder pressure and the rods fails later down the road, I am wondering if itsthe same on a Dmax is all.
 
duratothemax said:
no point in putting bigger injectors on a dmax. stock injectors will do 700rwhp. You run out of stock CP3 capacity before you run out of injector flow.

blown head gaskets are not common on dmax's.
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We know this to be true Ben , But to say we dont need biger sticks is a mild understatement. I would rather run 2100 to 2300 pulse width to get the same amount of fuel with less timinmg than a bigger 2900 to 3300 to get the same HP from stock sticks.
 
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