Head studs

M

muz

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Feb 10, 2009
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I want to try & run in the 13's but I want to know if my stock head gasket & studs will hold up? I've read about taking each stud out individually, oiling the thread and retourquing to 125lbft will this do the job?
 
If you have 12mm studs they should have been torqued to 125ftlb to begin with.
 
Make sure that you do them one at a time and torque them before you do another. Right bryce?
 
They're bolts not studs. Do a search on bolt torque and you will find the answers you need.

Devan, I just wanted an excuse to look at my pistons.
 
replace each bolt with a stud , use oil on the engine side threads of the stud, and use ARP lube on the nut side threads , both sides of the washer, and the inside and bottom on the nut.

torque each one to 100 lbs , then when all are installed , pull them to 125 lbs .

if you have any questions , or need help give me a shout
 
Greg, should we follow Cummins/Dodge specs to the 100 and then pull straight to 125?
 
ride42 said:
Greg, should we follow Cummins/Dodge specs to the 100 and then pull straight to 125?
Click to expand...


the Cummins specs are for a torque to yield bolt , remember the head is already torqued , so you are replacing one at a time ,

I will be working with engineering tomorrow , and will get their take on this as well
 
Man its a minefield studs-v-bolts!!! being I'm only shooting for 13s & I'm probably only going to upgrade the HX35 to a 60mm compressor wheel I think I will stick with the bolts. My one concern though is weather to take each bolt out individually oil & retorque or just pull them down? Any advice apreciated!!
 
I've read that you're better off not removing the bolts and just torquing them. If you want to remove bolts, you should probably buy a new top end gasket kit, install new gasket and oil the new bolts and follow the cummins torque sequence up to 90 ft lbs. Then take them up 5lbs at a time to your desired torque level, somewhere between 110 to 130 ft lbs.

If you want a little peace of mind, run all of your bolts up to 100 ft lbs. I guarantee some will not turn and others will go 90* before they hit 100ft lbs.
 
My main concern here was that they could be twisting rather than tightening,
 
With out getting in to the bolts vs. stud debate here are the undisputed facts . With the stock torque to yield Cummins head bolts if torque to the stock specs that Cummins puts out, they will work fine in a stock application .


With that said , after very extensive testing, by the engineers at ARP, on some of the best possible computers analyses equipment , measuring real clamping loads with real people, installing them in every possible dreamed up methods, on real engines , including all of the methods listed on these forums .


The results are as follows
The stock head stud was very repeatable, at stock torque methods developing a predicable clamping load .
This clamping load is well below that of a non torque to yield head stud kit


Now introduce every methods possible include calling and asking for the secrets , and the results were disturbing.

The stock torque to yield bolt, was all over the map in achieved clamping load , some times developing good clamping loads from one bolt , and less the stock clamping load ,from another factory bolt on the same head .

The clamping load variance with as much as 60% on the same head with the same methods . At no time did any of the methods better more then a 30 % variance in clamp loads , this including just an additional 10 % torque

This lets you know the truth

An ARP 2000 head stud will deliver clamping loads with less the 1 % variance from one fastener to the next .

This is not an attempt at an advertisement , its just the facts , I don’t want to see people forgoing , what should be one of the first improvements they make to they truck.
 
COMP461 said:
With out getting in to the bolts vs. stud debate here are the undisputed facts . With the stock torque to yield Cummins head bolts if torque to the stock specs that Cummins puts out, they will work fine in a stock application .


With that said , after very extensive testing, by the engineers at ARP, on some of the best possible computers analyses equipment , measuring real clamping loads with real people, installing them in every possible dreamed up methods, on real engines , including all of the methods listed on these forums .


The results are as follows
The stock head stud was very repeatable, at stock torque methods developing a predicable clamping load .
This clamping load is well below that of a non torque to yield head stud kit


Now introduce every methods possible include calling and asking for the secrets , and the results were disturbing.

The stock torque to yield bolt, was all over the map in achieved clamping load , some times developing good clamping loads from one bolt , and less the stock clamping load ,from another factory bolt on the same head .

The clamping load variance with as much as 60% on the same head with the same methods . At no time did any of the methods better more then a 30 % variance in clamp loads , this including just an additional 10 % torque

This lets you know the truth

An ARP 2000 head stud will deliver clamping loads with less the 1 % variance from one fastener to the next .

This is not an attempt at an advertisement , its just the facts , I don’t want to see people forgoing , what should be one of the first improvements they make to they truck.
Click to expand...

I get what your saying & at some point I will get studs. It just sticks in your throat a bit when ARP's for a small block chevy are like $150 & for a cummins $450+ Its money I can do without spending right now. Especially with my lower HP figures.
 
i would just pull your bolts to 100. even with a 60mm hx35 you should not have to worry about a gasket if yours is in good shape. that turbo should run out of air before the gasket goes. just don't run really high timing.
 
rileydsking said:
i would just pull your bolts to 100. even with a 60mm hx35 you should not have to worry about a gasket if yours is in good shape. that turbo should run out of air before the gasket goes. just don't run really high timing.
Click to expand...

I would think drive pressure would be mentioned here. Just because your not building crazy amounts of boost doesn't mean there’s not a lot of cylinder pressure.
 
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