Here's my post from another thread.
I called Garmon today about using the stock head bolts since using the search feature brought up a bunch of useless info and smart ass comments.
He told me that if I'm going to use high temp axle grease fallow factory torque specs and then work up in 5lb increments. Once at 120 IIRC, mark the bolts so you can see if one is moving more than the rest. Let the bolts rest for a while to cool down due to the heat built up from torquing them down. Work your way up to 150lbs.
Apply axle grease to the threads and underside of the bolt head.
I told him I was using ARP torque lube. He said this was a little different because of how slick this stuff is. He said that 125lbs with ARP torque lube is egual to 150lbs with axle grease. Here's what I did and he said he wouldn't have done it any different.
Apply ARP torque lube to the threads and underside of the bolt head. Don't skimp.
60lbs, 80lbs, 90lbs, 100lbs, 110lbs. I let them rest for 5+ min between.
I let it sit over night because I was sick of laying over the top of the motor.
2nd day, 115lbs, 120lbs, 125lbs. This time I let it rest for about and hour between.
I asked him about heat cycles and whether to brake them loose or just check them after a couple heat cycles. He told me to do one heat cycle (operating temp and then cool down over night) and check them at 125lbs. If I was feeling brave I could take them to 130lbs. This is the way he does it and has never had one not torque to what he set it at. After the heat cycle and checking them, forget about them. Do NOT brake them loose and retorque them.
Hope this helps someone if the future. And IMO ARP torque lube is worth the few dollars it cost. I have the 1/2 pint jar and it last a lifetime for $22.
