Header Fab (LARGE PICS- 56K dialup users are hereby warned)

joefarmer

MR. Supreme Overlord
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
6,137
First off, much respect to WOODRUFF DIESEL and KEATING MACHINE for getting me a gorgeous 12v MS header flange. If you need one for 12, 24 or CR, they can make it for you.

Day 1, Dec 24th: HEADER FAB STARTS TODAY!!! On my official Lil'Tikes Header Fabrication, Powder & Ceramic Coating Oven™, of course.
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Day 2, Dec 25th: More header fab. Some welds turned out ok, some were a bit overkill. Everything will be ground smooth and coated as soon as the ceramic coating shows up.
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Day 3, Dec 26th:A trip to Sears and Harbor Freight for sanding supplies. I'm about 90% done sanding now. The compressor got tired and I took a few hour long phone calls (thanks Tim, Ryan, Chris, Josh :hehe:) or I'd be done now.

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Mounted, waiting on the turbo housing to finish the waste gate and flange:
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*Disclaimer* I'm no ZZ. I'm just a kid off a dairy farm turned software developer who likes to play in the garage and dreams of a nice TIG machine.
 

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Not bad for a farm breed country nerd LOL

really... it looks like fun and you did a good job. I wish I had those kind of toys too, I'd be making anything I could think of.
 
Looks good.

What did they ding you for the header flange?
 
looks good... :clap: How bad do you think it warped even with it mounted on a junk head? Are you planning on having it surfaced, and the high temp coating you are talking about can be put on in a low temp oven? More details on the coating... :poke: :Cheer:
 
Dude, that is awesome...you need to make me one:hehe: Did you weld it?

Actually my Bigfoot ATS should work...but if you get bored;)

Chris:D
 
Looking good. I would recoment getting the flange surfaced after you get it all final welded, I got a quote from a local small machine shop that does great work for $30 to machine both the head and turbo flange to make sure they are both straight. I know that will vary by area but maybe that will give you a better idea of what it should run.
 
Remember the DOG tht night my friend :hehe::hehe:. Looks like the imaginary ideas u had came together....
Brandon
 
Thanks! I bought the flange awhile back, I'm not sure what they are right now. I believe somwhere between $2-300.

It shrank about 0.050" from end to end and about 0.030" bow from center to edge. I'm surprised it wasn't warped more. The coating is Cerakote Chromex from Caswell Plating. "With parts still in oven ramp up to 500°F (minimum) to 700°F. After desired temperature is reached, cure parts for 60 minutes." My oven does 650F before the thermometer hits the peg.

Chris, I don't think this clears a factory alternator. I can't confirm that because I don't run one. ;)

It's a good idea to resurface flanges- I'll keep that in mine. Currently I'm still waiting on the turbine housing so I can space the compressor housing far enough away.

LOL poor brutus. You ever feel like that dog Brandon? LOL
 
Brandon to be honest with you I think that's the cleanest looking header I've seen off this website. Its clean,simple & functional.

Great work :rockwoot:
 
I like seein stuff fabbed up, great work, its amazing how many hours a guy can sink into our "projects"
 
Looks damb good. I used some of the dry film lubes from Caswell before. If he high temp coatings are as good as the lubes you will be happy.
 
Where did that trick thermostat housing come from! What size is the fitting?
Thanks! The upper is an aluminum piece from Jason (HotRodTractor) and my sawzall. -20AN lines are from a Nascar team. The lower is a piece of 1/2" flat stock with one of those -20an weld bung fittings on it.

The manifold is schedule 40. Hopefully it won't shrink any more from use.

I love Caswell's products. Their powder flows out better than Eastwood or anyone else that I've used. Wet black FTW!

I'd also hate to know how many hours I have in this project. I'm coming home every night and spending 6-8 hours out in the garage, hoping that I'll have all the ducks in a row before TS.
 
Oh... right. I forgot about that. I think I figured out a way to run an idler pulley on the water pump to avoid that problem too.
 
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