Headstud torque ?

1BADRAM

Diesel Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
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372
I finished putting the motor together and have torqued the ARP studs to 120. I put the motor in and started it, let it run for a few minutes and shut it off. I'm going to check them again, what should I go to? After that do I drive it for a couple of days and then check again and at what torque?
 
I finished putting the motor together and have torqued the ARP studs to 120. I put the motor in and started it, let it run for a few minutes and shut it off. I'm going to check them again, what should I go to? After that do I drive it for a couple of days and then check again and at what torque?

your not going to get the same answer out of everyone...not even close actually

if they are the arp2000's...recommended torque is 125

i took mine to 140 b/c thats what was recommended to me at the time
 
your not going to get the same answer out of everyone...not even close actually

if they are the arp2000's...recommended torque is 125

i took mine to 140 b/c thats what was recommended to me at the time

x2 on all three accounts.

No matter what size studs im dealing with, i install and torque to spec like instructed. Start the truck and let idle to operating temp and retorque to what ever the spec or your "spec" is. Drive for a couple of days and retorque. Then drive, flog, pull anything that will basically put a max load on it and then check to make sure they didnt move. Tim
 
I can't remember what the ARP specs are, I threw the instructions away long time ago.
 
I think when I got my ARP's they said 145 max...then I tq'd them to 150.....

But Ill second what IllinoisRam said. 120, heat cycle, 140, few heat cycles, then you can leave it at 140 or bump up to 145 or 150. Same process Ill be doing on my new motor.
 
Anyone know the torque specs for A-1 12MMs?

How did you do your heat cycles?
 
Anyone know the torque specs for A-1 12MMs?

How did you do your heat cycles?

I don't remember the specific torque, but I do specifically remember "torque to x then bring vehicle up to operating temperature and re-tourqe hot".
This was the A-1 heavy duty 12mm.

I wouldn't trust ARP to anything over 118#.
 
I don't remember the specific torque, but I do specifically remember "torque to x then bring vehicle up to operating temperature and re-tourqe hot".
This was the A-1 heavy duty 12mm.

I wouldn't trust ARP to anything over 118#.

Why? Did u have a failure? Was the failure due to install error?
Brandon
 
maybe due to re-torque while hot, you need to do the re-torque cold both times.

and it is recommended to loosen then torque on the initial re-torque
 
maybe due to re-torque while hot, you need to do the re-torque cold both times.

and it is recommended to loosen then torque on the initial re-torque
What is the preferred procedure when loosening and re-torque?

Is it to loosen then re-torque one bolt at a time?

Or loosen all bolts in sequence, then re-torque in normal sequence?
 
What is the preferred procedure when loosening and re-torque?

Is it to loosen then re-torque one bolt at a time?

Or loosen all bolts in sequence, then re-torque in normal sequence?

1 at a time then torque back down in steps.
Brandon
 
I installed them at 120*, started the motor up and just got it warmed, let it cool and then torqued to 125*, drove the truck home about 10miles let it cool and then torqued again to 130*. I'm gonna drive it for a few days and then check them again.
 
Consensus on here was to retorque hot to 140ft/lbs. I posted a thread about hot vs. cold and there were more people who said to do it hot.
Haisley told me to retorque hot also.

Mine have been holding for over a year with a Silver64 and alot of fuel beating the hell out of her daily.
 
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