Help on my build for pulling

bigsexy7.3

bigsexy7.3

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Feb 17, 2013
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So Im working on building my truck to pull with next season and was looking for some help from you all. Im planning on sending my pump to seth to be maxed and benched, 5x21s(did some trading), .025 maybe full cuts, 60lb exhaust and intake springs, arc flow, 4k gov springs, ats t3 but will be swapping to a t4, and s464. I have most of it already and will be also doing studs asap. My question anything such as delivery valve holders, rack plug or anything else that would help to buy and send in with the pump and what would you guys recommand for a fuel setup on this. My goals are to build her to play in 2.5 with next season and id like to get as close to 700-800 with it I've done a lot of reading but havent seen much about the setup I wanna run. We aren't like you all back east and 2.5 is somewhat new to us.. my 1995 2500 has 410, fresh rebuilt nv4500, valair ceramic dual disc and its its an ex cab long bed. I will plan on doing all the motor after next season but for now id like to just have some fun. Also what would you guys recommand for timing and would altitude have any effect on it?
 
No im just maxing and benching mine for now. I dont see any reason to bump up to a 13mm pump already
 
Open dv holders flow less fuel on a 12mm pump than stock ones do, just fyi. The rack plug is also included when we (and most others) max/balance pumps.
 
Hey seth I was wrong when we talked I have a 175 pump in my truck.
im not 100% sure on tire size because the last pull of the season I tried 3rd 4 low and she blew the tire right off so I let out and tried 4th in 4 low and she ended up about 3500-3700 at the end of the track and this is woth 285/70 16s with just singles in the rear. I have a set of 17 dually rims I plan to use next season. Our tracks out here aren't as tight as back east, mostly sand.
 
Hey Seth you think a m axxed pump will work for what im tryin to accomplish with the full cuts your goin to do with my pump?
 
bigsexy7.3 said:
So Im working on building my truck to pull with next season and was looking for some help from you all. Im planning on sending my pump to seth to be maxed and benched, 5x21s(did some trading), .025 maybe full cuts, 60lb exhaust and intake springs, arc flow, 4k gov springs, ats t3 but will be swapping to a t4, and s464. I have most of it already and will be also doing studs asap. My question anything such as delivery valve holders, rack plug or anything else that would help to buy and send in with the pump and what would you guys recommand for a fuel setup on this. My goals are to build her to play in 2.5 with next season and id like to get as close to 700-800 with it I've done a lot of reading but havent seen much about the setup I wanna run. We aren't like you all back east and 2.5 is somewhat new to us.. my 1995 2500 has 410, fresh rebuilt nv4500, valair ceramic dual disc and its its an ex cab long bed. I will plan on doing all the motor after next season but for now id like to just have some fun. Also what would you guys recommand for timing and would altitude have any effect on it?
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These will not be enough for what your looking to do. You need to step up to Hamilton 165# springs, or the 170# street springs from Taylor Manning.
 
With a stock cam 175 HP pump, he won't need more than 60# (155# seat) marine valve springs because the truck won't free rev over 4200 rpm and it won't carry more than 3200 down the track. Unless of course the pump builder has some "budget friendly" tricks to make it fuel well to 4000 rpm.....
 
For the money, a 60# spring is hard to beat. Reguardless what all the salesmen tell you.
 
I dropped my other head off at the machine shop yesterday to have it checked out and to get the pedestals trimmed down for the studs and he thinks will do fine with the 60lb springs.
 
in 09 I had a set up close to what your looking to run .I had a smaller injector, non benched 175 pump with 4k's and 191's, I dynoed at 600hp to the ground with a non ett s465. with more timing, better DV, 5k's, and a better injector I think 650 would have been pretty easy.

With 40 psi of fuel pressure at WOT 3400 to 3500 is what it would carry down track. With 4k springs it would free rev easy to 4200.
 
Big Blue24 said:
With a stock cam 175 HP pump, he won't need more than 60# (155# seat) marine valve springs because the truck won't free rev over 4200 rpm and it won't carry more than 3200 down the track. Unless of course the pump builder has some "budget friendly" tricks to make it fuel well to 4000 rpm.....
Click to expand...

So let me ask this, is there a difference between the "Marine" 60# Spring and the 60# springs others are selling? BD, Pac Brake, etc ?
 
Im going to try and run the 60lb springs for now.I took an extra head I had and dropped off at the machine shop. He thinks the springs will do me just fine for now but he did talk me into upgrading the push rods and retainers. Once he checks it for cracks Im going to port and polish it before we put it back together.
 
what timing do you all recommand for my setup pulling? Im thinking of starting it at 22. Also whats the point of thicker or thinner headgasket and whos would you guys recommand?
 
I know I'm running 24 timing, head studs, o-ring head, and on a stock size gasket. I blew the original one at 24 timing then did all the above work. Id start at 22 and work your way up.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
bigsexy7.3 said:
what timing do you all recommand for my setup pulling? Im thinking of starting it at 22. Also whats the point of thicker or thinner headgasket and whos would you guys recommand?
Click to expand...

If you can stay with stock thickness than use that. thicker ones are normally used to fix clearance issues.

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