Hey Milliken....

Krazeeun said:
Just reusing what was there from the 2500-3000hp procharger setup, the discharge of the GT55 is only 3.5".

There is the theory that the larger diameter tubing will slow down the velocity of air as t passes thru the IC so it has longer to cool?


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I was reading that mach .4-.5 is the ideal air velocity through an intercooler. There are some equations I came across online.

97rada said:
Has that theory ever been tested ?
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There has to be guys that have data after moving to larger diameter tubing.
 
So, here's a question for you guys, I'm running 4 nitrous kits on the car, not for the purposes of hosing its face off but more so for the purpose of spreading the love out with multiple small kits on simple digi-set timers because I hate progressive controllers and PWM solenoids.

One kit will be a tiny .030 or so that comes on with the trans brake button, after that I'll have a purge solenoid and two .125 solenoids to work with and turn on whenever i want after release of trans brake down the track using the digi-set timers.

My question to you is, where would you put the nozzles in the system? There are two very specific trains of thought here, one being that furthest away gives the most IC effect, the other being that closest to the engine gives the most bang for the buck. My initial thought is to put the spool-aid shot, the first small shot on the purge solenoid and one of the .125 on the charge pipe just inside the firewall on the compressor discharge side of the intercooler, then the other .125 solenoid which would be my "third, big kit" with the nozzle mounted on the other charge pipe just inside the firewall, between the IC and the engine.

Plan is to have the spool aid on whenever the trans brake is on, with the other three kits activated by digi-set timers, likely bringing the first small kit on right after the hit and before the 60' if the tires can take it, then the first .125 shortly after the 60' if the tires can take it then likely the "third big kit" right around the 330' likely right after the lockup clutch is applied and used as a MPH tool.
 
According to my turbo guy, the charger i'm using rated at 170lbs/min equals to a rough translation of 2400cfm, according to that math up there the largest charge pipe they did the math on was 3" which ended up being 1300 cfm max= 301 mph = 0.39 mach... by his math 2400 cfm of air through a 4 inch pipe is 458 fps which is .406 mach same amount of air in a 5 inch pipe... and the speed drops to 293 fps... so it looks like 4" is barely suitable at max flow potential of the 88MM GTX.
 
just throwing out some ideas. The further down the track you are, the more you are going to heat soak the whole system. Bigger boost numbers and more of it moving. If you are using it more for density control, you would want to start the first nozzle close to the intake runner, and each one will come on later and closer to the turbo compressor outlet. that would also add to the idea that if you are cooling the air, the more you put in the quicker, the longer it has a chance to mix and cool down.
 
4D4909E6-16B2-4A3E-A4BB-5A48216A9E9A_zps9pyuldtc.jpg
 
jlibert said:
4D4909E6-16B2-4A3E-A4BB-5A48216A9E9A_zps9pyuldtc.jpg
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While their calculation of air speed may be correct I believe there are many other factors that determine CFM needed besides simply just HP.

This is from an engine test cell for a 15.8L engine at 600hp, its closer to 2:1 ratio of CFM/HP.
31CE3B20-7016-4EB6-A481-D54E72F92510_zpsurbkussr.png
 
Horsepower is a calculated number. Horsepower is a calculated number. Horsepower is a calculated number.

Take equations and ratings with a grain of salt as they are typically aimed towards a gas engine.

For example: A turbocharger "rated" for 1000hp is very misleading. It may make 1000hp on a 2.0L engine. The same turbocharger wouldn't touch 1000hp on a 16L engine or a 6L engine.

Maybe this is obvious to some but it gets overlooked quite a bit on the interwebs...
 
I like your plan. We found that when we had an air/water on my brothers truck we could only bring so much nitrous on at once when the nozzles were close to the plenum. We had to move more of it close to the turbo in order to bring the nitrous in more aggressively. It would put the fire out otherwise. However once we got rid of the air/water that all changed.
 
Krazeeun said:
So, here's a question for you guys, I'm running 4 nitrous kits on the car, not for the purposes of hosing its face off but more so for the purpose of spreading the love out with multiple small kits on simple digi-set timers because I hate progressive controllers and PWM solenoids.

One kit will be a tiny .030 or so that comes on with the trans brake button, after that I'll have a purge solenoid and two .125 solenoids to work with and turn on whenever i want after release of trans brake down the track using the digi-set timers.

My question to you is, where would you put the nozzles in the system? There are two very specific trains of thought here, one being that furthest away gives the most IC effect, the other being that closest to the engine gives the most bang for the buck. My initial thought is to put the spool-aid shot, the first small shot on the purge solenoid and one of the .125 on the charge pipe just inside the firewall on the compressor discharge side of the intercooler, then the other .125 solenoid which would be my "third, big kit" with the nozzle mounted on the other charge pipe just inside the firewall, between the IC and the engine.

Plan is to have the spool aid on whenever the trans brake is on, with the other three kits activated by digi-set timers, likely bringing the first small kit on right after the hit and before the 60' if the tires can take it, then the first .125 shortly after the 60' if the tires can take it then likely the "third big kit" right around the 330' likely right after the lockup clutch is applied and used as a MPH tool.
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First, awesome build as usual, but why the hatred on Progressive Controllers?
 
this ****er is almost ready to start... should be moving under its own power on Tuesday...
 
Krazeeun said:
this ****er is almost ready to start... should be moving under its own power on Tuesday...
Click to expand...

Where did you end up putting the N2O nozzles? I'd recommend your spool aid on your intake manifold inlet. Put your big stages in the compressor discharge. Or compressor wheel inlet is even better, but more complex.

I wouldn't worry about IAT too much or piping size with having both nitrous and an a/w cooler. I'd also recommend the maximizer controller. If you're worried about sticky solenoids look into stainless nitrous outlet for this portion.
 
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97rada said:
Has that theory ever been tested ?
Click to expand...

AHall said:
Where did you end up putting the N2O nozzles? I'd recommend your spool aid on your intake manifold inlet. Put your big stages in the compressor discharge. Or compressor wheel inlet is even better, but more complex.

I wouldn't worry about IAT too much or piping size with having both nitrous and an a/w cooler. I'd also recommend the maximizer controller. If you're worried about sticky solenoids look into stainless nitrous outlet for this portion.
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Haven't put them on yet but i'm planning on two solenoids PRE IC, the other two POST. I'm not using a nitrous controller, ever, for anything lol, I've got good solenoids from Inductions Solutions and all the support I could ask for from them, they're "local" to me as well so thats a benefit.
 
Krazeeun said:
Haven't put them on yet but i'm planning on two solenoids PRE IC, the other two POST. I'm not using a nitrous controller, ever, for anything lol, I've got good solenoids from Inductions Solutions and all the support I could ask for from them, they're "local" to me as well so thats a benefit.
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I wouldn't waste the cooling effect that n2o offers by putting the big stages too close to the valves. You'll probably be fine, but I'd reserve the direct port for a small dose of water to keep the pistons and turbine wheel happy just in case.
 
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