home made coolant bypass kit

DLV8 said:
I was thinking of using a fuel solenoid from a nitrous kit so I could just flip a switch inside the cab, but it's a problem if you forget it. I would ratter have it automatically open when it needs too.
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Put in a pressure switch in the line and you could possibly use it. I would get one with some hysteresis built in, as you don't want it just cycling on and off when the solenoid opens. If you set if low enough you might be able to get by.
 
High Cotton said:
At what point do you need a bypass kit? 3300rpms or above?
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I ran mine to 4500 a few times and never blew the freeze plug...not the smartest idea though.

DLV8 said:
I was thinking of using a fuel solenoid from a nitrous kit so I could just flip a switch inside the cab, but it's a problem if you forget it. I would ratter have it automatically open when it needs too.
Click to expand...

A tiny 1/8" line or 1/4" at best is not going to move enough volume to help with the high pressure.
 
1/4 Turn valve t'd at the temp sensor and returned to the upper hose. Returning to the lower hose recirculates hot coolant.

swap_0016.jpg
 
Pressure relief is the idea! Recirculating hot coolant is not an issue. The t-stat flows enough to keep the motor cool. Returning hot coolant to the lower rad hose keeps engine temp more uniform than bypassing the t-stat. Less temp fluctuation equals less stress on the motor and a more efficient motor. Just my personal opinion/observation.
 
You bypass the stat with any pressure relief. Why put hot coolant back to the water pump when you can put it through the radiator? Maybe you need to school me on this.
 
LReiff said:
Pressure relief is the idea! Recirculating hot coolant is not an issue. The t-stat flows enough to keep the motor cool. Returning hot coolant to the lower rad hose keeps engine temp more uniform than bypassing the t-stat. Less temp fluctuation equals less stress on the motor and a more efficient motor. Just my personal opinion/observation.
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the only problem I see with this is if youre towing on a hot day would it not compromise the cooling with sending to much hot coolant back into the lower rad hose. would it not take the easy route going back into the lower rad hose instead of going trew the termosthat and the radiator?
 
DLV8 said:
the only problem I see with this is if youre towing on a hot day would it not compromise the cooling with sending to much hot coolant back into the lower rad hose. would it not take the easy route going back into the lower rad hose instead of going trew the termosthat and the radiator?
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If all of the coolant can't go thru the easy way, you will build pressure in the easy way, and then it will flow the more restrictive way.
 
just as long as I don't go with a 2 inch hose I should be fine. :lolly:

might try that instead less parts and would probably make for a cheaper/cleaner setup. BIG thanks to everybody!!!!!!
 
This is what I did, took an adjustable relief valve, changed the valve seat to Viton so it's good for 400degrees, set the relief at 75psi and ran it back into a tapped t-stat housing. The all metal braided stainless line looks nice too...

bypass2.jpg
 
How exactly are you guys setting the valves to the PSI you want it to release at?
 
bench set it would be the easiest. Shop air, gauge, etc. I'm probably going to at least put on in the head, since I'm hoping to turn close to 4k soon.
 
DLV8 said:
the only problem I see with this is if youre towing on a hot day would it not compromise the cooling with sending to much hot coolant back into the lower rad hose. would it not take the easy route going back into the lower rad hose instead of going trew the termosthat and the radiator?
Click to expand...

Will coolant pressure bypass through a small hose if the thermostat is open? The problem a bypass alleviates is extreme pressure that can not escape with the thermostat closed.

Show me a pressure relief valve that does not eventually leak and/or hang open causing engine temp issues and I'll consider using one.
 
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