How much to open a 24v piston bowl? Mud truck motor build.

Nothing to add but good luck with the build! Diesels and mud = good times!
 
Ghetto way to machining the valve pockets. Take one scrap valve, cut it so it has sharp edges that cut aluminum. You can do this while the pistons are in the engine. Put the head back on and it will allign the tool perfectly.
 
^^thats the worst haha! hope you can find a bigger lathe.^^



Is that all a person wants to do to a set of pistons or is there a few more tricks to do? iv heard of people taking some of the material off the wrist pins to help with inertia
 
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SPEEDSHIFT said:
I am going to be putting together a P-pump 24v motor for my 87 K5 Blazer. I wanted to open the piston bowl up, but I am not sure how much. Does anyone has any pics, or specs on this being done? This is going to be a cheap build, just using what I already have laying around the shop, so I don't want to buy new pistons. I am not sure which injectors, I will probably just find some used injectors off here in the classifieds, so they wont be any kind of custom spray angle.

The truck is just going to be used for mud racing, on a fast track, no bogs. Just a straight 100ft line of a track that has been disked and watered. Here is a quick build list...

Ported CR head w/runner intake/heavy springs
24v block/pistons/crank
polished 24v rods
215 or 180 pump(barrels turned, 5k GSK, full cuts, rack set)
balanced/studded bottom end
large 70+mm single
TH400 trans/Art Carr conv/ high stall/manual VB
Large 24v inj 250hp+ (whatever I can find)

I might be able to get away with water injection, but I am not sure if I will even need it because the pump wont be very hot.

I do have a set of CR pistons I could use also, but they would take custom nozzles wouldnt they?

TIA, Bodie
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Use the CR pistons, and do not reduce compression at all, unless your building a 1500 hp mod engine , it will reduce power and responsiveness.
The narrow 24 valve spray angle will work well ,with higher then stock timing



hatemi said:
Ghetto way to machining the valve pockets. Take one scrap valve, cut it so it has sharp edges that cut aluminum. You can do this while the pistons are in the engine. Put the head back on and it will allign the tool perfectly.
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That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard you say. If you need piston to valve clearance, do it right, or don’t do it at all. And chance of getting aluminum in the space between the pistons and the bore will end in scuffing and spreading of the aluminum on the bore. Nothing wrong with center punching the pistons, then put them on a mill and do it right
 
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