how to keep gears still?

mopar or no car

mopar or no car

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Joined
Apr 9, 2008
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218
What is the preferred method to hold the gears still when torquing the inj pump nut? Last time I used a rag(let the gears pull the rag into the teeth till they didn't move), does that do any harm? The nut gets 170 ft lbs right?

Jordan
 
At what point do you have to key the pump to the gear? I noticed VP44's do it and my p-pump has the slot for a key but my gear does not.
 
the reason the gear does not have a slot for the key is, you have to set the timing by moving the gear in relation to tdc and lift of the plunger
ed
 
I use a ratchet too but sometimes it's hard to keep from moving. Just make sure that the timing pin is disengaged from the gear in the back of the timing housing and after you torque it down to 160/170 pin it again to make sure you have the timing you want.
 
the pin tells you NOTHING IMO...

once the nut is locked down, roll the engine all the way over to TDC again and verify plunger lift. Using the timing pin is like trying to use a baseball bat to type a text message on your cell phone
 
Forrest Nearing said:
the pin tells you NOTHING IMO...

once the nut is locked down, roll the engine all the way over to TDC again and verify plunger lift. Using the timing pin is like trying to use a baseball bat to type a text message on your cell phone
Click to expand...

To each their own, many would disagree with this statement. IMHO the pin tells you nothing if you have bent it, I have not had this problem.
 
Sure true TDC is more accurate but i've read where others have checked the pin against it and found the pin to be accurate. I believe Smokem likes the pin, it would seem he has some experience with pumps:p
 
I am against the pin also. Checking plunger lift is more accurate to me. Oh and to stop the engine from turning just put the barring tool in the hole. It wont turn then. But remember to take it out before trying to start it.
 
wildmanben said:
I am against the pin also. Checking plunger lift is more accurate to me. Oh and to stop the engine from turning just put the barring tool in the hole. It wont turn then. But remember to take it out before trying to start it.
Click to expand...

My barring tool didn't turn when I only torqued to 140 but would turn when torquing to 160+. Always make sure to double check everything after a timing adjustment, I can't imagine the sound that would be made if one tried to start their truck with the baring tool still in the access port:bang
 
I have the front cover off and i can see that the pin would not neccessarily give true tdc. If I remember correctly, I can put a wire in the #1 injetor hole, put the balancer on, roll the engine one way till the wire drops, then roll the other till it drops, and true tdc is smack dab in the middle, right? And the engine turns clockwise looking at the timing housing(front) right?

Jordan
 
NickTF said:
My barring tool didn't turn when I only torqued to 140 but would turn when torquing to 160+. Always make sure to double check everything after a timing adjustment, I can't imagine the sound that would be made if one tried to start their truck with the baring tool still in the access port:bang
Click to expand...

guess what happens when you try to start the engine with a ratchet in the barring tool and the ratchet pegged against the frame rail?

the friggin' positive battery cables try to jump out of their sheaths!!! :hehe:

I had the hood up and after it didn't hit on the first try, I saw the cables jumping on the 2nd try! :eek:

needless to say, I hopped out of the cab to investigate!:hehe:
 
Forrest Nearing said:
guess what happens when you try to start the engine with a ratchet in the barring tool and the ratchet pegged against the frame rail?

the friggin' positive battery cables try to jump out of their sheaths!!! :hehe:

I had the hood up and after it didn't hit on the first try, I saw the cables jumping on the 2nd try! :eek:

needless to say, I hopped out of the cab to investigate!:hehe:
Click to expand...

I've caught myself a few times with the barring tool still in the port but caught it during double checking. It's certainly easy enough to do. Another favorite of mine is when barring the engine over with the alternator nut, I'm almost always certain to leave the ratchet on the nut and catch it during double checking.

After my first endevor bending a governor stud during barring the engine over by hand :eek:wned:I learned to double check and triple check things if you have any questions or doubt in your mind!
 
yeah, I've been lucky, but I try to do "idiot checks" often!!!

the other day I was working on a big Waukesha engine and had my 3/4" ratchet and 1 5/16" socket hanging on the barring tool. These are spring loaded barring tools that are permanently affixed to the bellhousing. This particular one hadn't been used in a while, so when I tapped it in place to engage the flywheel, it stayed engaged.

I had to replace the mag on it, and I was ABOUT to hit the start gas lever when one of the platform operators chimed in "you gonna pull that wrench off first?" :eek:

dodged a bullet on that one... I hit it w/ a bunch of penetrating oil and made sure that it would automaticly spring back out, but that's all it takes... a moment of inattention... I should have done a walk-around/idiot check, but I didn't
 
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