HTT manifold is cracked!!!

There's your answer.

Since I started coating the insides only with the 2000* white stuff I haven't had a manifold warp/crack or any bolts shear off/go missing since. Well, except for one that didn't get coated...

I used to average around 3 months or so before I would warp one or break a bolt or something. Now, nothing after a few years. Ceramic coating with stainless hardware has proven effective for me.

I've been a strong advocate and user of it for over 15 years. Funny, back in the day it was kept hush hush......

I know it can get a little spendy, BUT the benifits far outweigh the costs IMHO.:Cheer:
 
These photo's look to be a cast steel manifold, which would explain the cracking, the grain of the steel is not in line with the stress points, but rather all over the place. Heat treatment would help to change the dirction of grain structure and could keep these from failing. Cyrogenic freezeing may help this also, as it is another form of heat treatment, it just cools slower and into sub zero temps. A forged heat treated steel manifold would be the best against fighting high heat expansion and cold weather contraction.
 
My PDI hasnt cracked yet!! Knock on wood. I destroyed a BD one in less than 6 months..
 
These photo's look to be a cast steel manifold, which would explain the cracking, the grain of the steel is not in line with the stress points, but rather all over the place. Heat treatment would help to change the dirction of grain structure and could keep these from failing. Cyrogenic freezeing may help this also, as it is another form of heat treatment, it just cools slower and into sub zero temps. A forged heat treated steel manifold would be the best against fighting high heat expansion and cold weather contraction.

Good idea....I might try that on the new one

Thanks
 
While those might be excellent ways to cope with heat in a part... thermal barrier coating keeps the heat from getting to the part...

Coated the inside only on the one on my Dad's motorhome (that was cracked/warped to HELL when I replaced it) and after a couple years it still looks like the manifold has never been run. It simply doesn't get hot anymore. The heat can't get in the part to make it expand/contract all the time anywhere near like it does with an uncoated manifold. The one on his motorhome still looks the same as it did when I pulled it out of the box. It's just not getting hot anymore. Seriously looks like it's never been run.

That's been my experience. Same on my truck.
 
While those might be excellent ways to cope with heat in a part... thermal barrier coating keeps the heat from getting to the part...

Coated the inside only on the one on my Dad's motorhome (that was cracked/warped to HELL when I replaced it) and after a couple years it still looks like the manifold has never been run. It simply doesn't get hot anymore. The heat can't get in the part to make it expand/contract all the time anywhere near like it does with an uncoated manifold. The one on his motorhome still looks the same as it did when I pulled it out of the box. It's just not getting hot anymore. Seriously looks like it's never been run.

That's been my experience. Same on my truck.

They make a DIY kit? Or is this something you send out for?
 
They make a DIY kit? Or is this something you send out for?

I have a place that happens to be local to me that does it. I believe I gave them ~120 bucks out the door for the 5.9 manifold internally coated with some 2000 degree white stuff. Seems to do the trick. I've been running the stuff in my manifolds on my truck for a year or two now without fail. Before that I used to get leaks and shear bolts on a monthly basis. The clincher for me was a while back, in a pinch I had to install an uncoated manifold on the driver's side..... what do you know, it's now warped and leaking, and the same old one coated on the passenger's side is still rocking out.

I also had them ceramic coat the tops and teflon coat the skirts of my pistons. I haven't had them back out since, but when I do I will inspect that.

Here's their info:

http://www.procryo.com/
 
I went and took a picture, although I couldn't find a light, it should suffice.

2676572740082519711S600x600Q85.jpg



Notice that after a year or two worth of running on the manifold it hasn't even changed the color of the paint pen white where someone wrote 272 on it. Only thing to clue you in that it has been on their a while is a little surface rust, and the golden color of the stainless bolts.
 
I have a place that happens to be local to me that does it. I believe I gave them ~120 bucks out the door for the 5.9 manifold internally coated with some 2000 degree white stuff. Seems to do the trick. I've been running the stuff in my manifolds on my truck for a year or two now without fail. Before that I used to get leaks and shear bolts on a monthly basis. The clincher for me was a while back, in a pinch I had to install an uncoated manifold on the driver's side..... what do you know, it's now warped and leaking, and the same old one coated on the passenger's side is still rocking out.

I also had them ceramic coat the tops and teflon coat the skirts of my pistons. I haven't had them back out since, but when I do I will inspect that.

Here's their info:

http://www.procryo.com/
I know this place you from Cumming?
 
Charles, have you ever had the internally coated manifold up to 2000 degrees? Just curious if it would hold up as hot as they say. I would like to find a coating good for 2500 degrees, no more screwin around.
 
Charles, have you ever had the internally coated manifold up to 2000 degrees? Just curious if it would hold up as hot as they say. I would like to find a coating good for 2500 degrees, no more screwin around.

My manifolds on my truck are internally coated, and I've run around 2000 degrees on it a whole lot. Way too much actually. It seems to hang. Fwiw, I only coat the inside. That way the thermal barrier coating will keep the heat out, but the outside of the manifold is free to radiate any incoming heat directly into the engine compartment. If you coat inside and out, you're only half as well off, because while a bunch less heat makes it way into the part, a bunch less heat ever makes it out of the part. Net effect is that while it takes a while longer for the part to reach the temperature, it's still getting about as hot. IMO of course. I don't have any thermo gun data on that one.

Try it and see. Only way to know. It's really not expensive enough to warrant much pondering IMO.
 
There shouldn't be a problem with a manifold that we are paying $500 a pop for. They all need to back up their products when they fail. I do foundations for new homes. I only have to give a one year warranty, but if one of my foundations fail, I don't care if its 10 years later. I will back my product.
 
I sent a copy of my reciept to HTT today. Here is what they had to say. [I left all names out of it.]

"!@###%$$%%%% has never been a direct dealer of ours so therefore we have never sold them one of our manifolds direct, so for any warranty to be considered warranty needs to go through them as the seller and then through whoever they obtained it from. We can only warranty parts to the original parts purcheser not 2nd or 3rd party."
High Tech Turbo
 
sounds like someone squirming out of a warranty issue.

Jamie I figured that that's what they would say.

I kinda figured that too. Sure makes me sick that they can sell these for $499 & not back up the product. I'm waiting to see what the dealer I bought this from has to say. If he can't do anything, I'm sure I have other reciepts laying around somewhere.
 
I sent a copy of my reciept to HTT today. Here is what they had to say. [I left all names out of it.]

"!@###%$$%%%% has never been a direct dealer of ours so therefore we have never sold them one of our manifolds direct, so for any warranty to be considered warranty needs to go through them as the seller and then through whoever they obtained it from. We can only warranty parts to the original parts purcheser not 2nd or 3rd party."
High Tech Turbo


They cant even speel
 
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