Hydrolocked diesel tech help

Jess@FarmboyFab

Jess@FarmboyFab

DC's idol
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
677
I have a customer (acquaintance) that took his 2002 Hummer H1 out in some mud (more like a lake).

Well, it being late and a weekend, and me having a wide open shop, they had it towed here before having it to tow it to the dealer. Give me a little time to look it over and make sure its not something simple (like a starter solenoid) before the dealer bends them over. Even though im not qualified at all for this.


Anyways, he gives me the story and shows me a picture of the depth...yup to the top of the hood...though still not quite to the little snorkel part of the intake. He says its clicking when trying to start, so im pretty sure he tried to start it while it was sunk...but still, i was hoping for a cheap electrical fix.

I do a little research on these trucks, and it seems the starter and solenoid are built together...and theres more silicone caked on that thing than you can imagine. I no longer really suspect it.

I hook my truck up to it to charge the batteries, meanwhile check all the fuses, and intake for water. They all had a little bit of water in there, which i cleaned out; but really, the intake didnt have much to be suspect of (though this is 6 hours after the bath).

Next i try to manually see if the motor will turn by hand (pullbar)...it wont.

I gave it a quick pop of the key to see if the clicking was gone...it is...but i think the motor is locked up. What should be my next step since it will not rotate freely (tranny and t-case in neutral)

I cant just pull spark plugs like a gas motor...what should i be pulling? Are the internals on these things so heavy that i just shouldnt expect to turn it by hand?
 
Last edited:
If it is a 6.5l, pull the glow plugs and then try to crank it.
 
GRotman said:
If it is a 6.5l, pull the glow plugs and then try to crank it.
Click to expand...

Are they difficult to get to? I swear, this thing is covered in mud, and if they are way down in there, or if i cant just get to them from the top, or by pulling a skidplate....then ill just leave it to the dealer.

And yeah...should be the 6.5L turbo diesel
 
Are the glow plugs below the injectors?


All i can make out is what appears to be injectors (one hard line going in, two rubber vents coming off...on each)...and below it, small plugs with a harness, with just one orange wire attached. These look like it to me, but the threads going into the block cant be bigger than 1/4-3/8"...i did not realize glow plugs were this small if thats in fact it.
 
Pull the injectors or glow plugs and crank over by hand at first. You also need to drop the oil and fuel filter to look for water. This should be done first to make sure how far the water infiltrated into the engine. If you see little to no water in fuel filter and oil pan, you can then crank the engine over by hand for a few revoltutions. Notice how much water exits the glow plug holes. You can spin the engine over with the starter now to get water out of cylinders as good as possible. Next do a compression test to see if you have a bent con. rod. If everything looks good now then fill engine with cheap clean oil and new filters. Reprime the fuel system and start the engine if possible. Run engine at low idle and let it warm up some. Run the rpm at a higher rpm for a few more minutes and then drain the oil and check the oil and fuel filters for water. Replace oil with new good grade oil and filters if they show water. Run engine with new oil for 500-1000 miles and change again. You may want to use a Lubrication engineering diesel engine oil as it will not mix with water. The water will drop to the bottom of the pan and filter when LE oil is used allowing it to be drained off. If you see any damage along the way then you will know what to do. Thanks, I hope this helps. Brady
 
Last edited:
Its either a 6.2L, 6.5L or a Duramax(not likely)...if its anything like the military versions you need to pull the doghouse to get to the back glowplugs and the rest aren't to bad to get to. Just be careful to not break them off.
 
Small plugs are your glow plugs. The ones with the wire harness attached.
 
You may also need to check the fuel tank for water also. Would be a good idea before you start the engine.
 
With a turbo involved you will need to inspect and maybe clean out the turbo.
 
General Engine Products (GEP) V8 6.5L Turbo diesel, fuel injection

From the intake cover, and owners manual....damn that turbo is WAY back behind the windshield...i couldnt even see it.

Thanks for the info Top Fueler...im not sure if I want to dig into it this much or not...its late, and i have a busy day tomorrow.
 
damn timberwolf..he shoulda stuck with his 2wd f250..LOL

you play you pay..

Jesse..if I were you..I would quit while I was ahead..just let them take it to the dealer..MHO
 
I think i will adam...i dont want to tear into this thing as deep as it needs it.

I just went out and turned it by hand again, and maybe got a half a rotation or more...i could here gurgling through the intake the whole way, then it intermittently locks up again, breaks free.

I dont want to go into it any more...and i certainly dont want to be the one to crank it and bend a rod...so im done.
 
Jess@FarmboyFab said:
I think i will adam...i dont want to tear into this thing as deep as it needs it.

I just went out and turned it by hand again, and maybe got a half a rotation or more...i could here gurgling through the intake the whole way, then it intermittently locks up again, breaks free.

I dont want to go into it any more...and i certainly dont want to be the one to crank it and bend a rod...so im done.
Click to expand...


I can tell you now..thats a good call..I hope they got deep pockets..cause that **** is bout to start costing..:doh:
 
The sooner you get the water out of the engine, the less damage will occur. (Rust)
 
Its done...i got it running at 9am this morning...been on a few test drives, and doing great.

Drivers side window has a mind of its own, and the ABS light is on...but that was the least of their worries.


Workin on 36 hours...time for a nap.


Thanks everyone for all of the help :rockwoot:
 
Last edited:
According to my practice with other engines , if you hydrolock engine you better change quickly conrods - > damaged conrod will come out sooner or later

Quickest was 15 minutes and longest waiting time was 2 weeks.:kick:
 
AsTroSS said:
According to my practice with other engines , if you hydrolock engine you better change quickly conrods - > damaged conrod will come out sooner or later

Quickest was 15 minutes and longest waiting time was 2 weeks.:kick:
Click to expand...


I sure hope not...no vibes or noises...we'll see.


Heres a pic

l_ad2a4060c817a4e6b567d21c52e64eaf.jpg
 
I knew only one engine who survived hydrolock , it was JeeP Wagoneer 1976 with 4 cylinder Valmet diesel engine (diesel swap was officialy dealer made in Findland) , and it still running

Maybe the reason is very low output, 4.2 liter and only 50hp (no turbo)


I want to say, just be careful with hydrolock engine they may show conrods :evil
 
WOW! that's deep!

All I see is water and SAND. The water ain't so bad but the sand will sure kill it
soon.

IMHO

59
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top