I need a 400-500 horse street engine......

LOGANSTANFORTH

LOGANSTANFORTH

WORKIN' MAN'S DOLLAR
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
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its going into a Superduty for a friend of mine, needs to be a streetable daily driver that he can tow his boat and race car trailer with.....he has a 4,000 dollar budget for the engine, its a 12 valve by the way.....
 
4 or 5k GSK, timing bumped up, 5x.012 injectors, 0-plate, S300G, and the various AFC mods.
 
What Bryce said. You should be able to squeze a 62 in the budget.

I'm assuming he has the tranny or is getting a stick?
 
Are you looking for an engine that makes that much power for that much?
 
no he wants to build the engine, he has a V10 in the Superduty right now so i know we are going to have to change the core support over to a diesel one and put the a powerstroke intercooler in it......i just wanted other peoples opinions......
 
It's doable for that budget, it's gonna involve some shopping around for parts, but it's certainly possible.

The tranny may well push it past that though...
 
buy a good running engine for $1500-2000, studs/o-rings and head gasket - $900, good set of used injectors - $400-700, 4k GSK and valve springs = $150-200, shop around for a good deal on a 62/71 and roll out
 
displacedtexan said:
It's doable for that budget, it's gonna involve some shopping around for parts, but it's certainly possible.

The tranny may well push it past that though...
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we aint including the tranny in this.....we havent decided on what we want to do for a tranny yet......stay with the ford or go with a NV4500.....
 
Forrest Nearing said:
buy a good running engine for $1500-2000, studs/o-rings and head gasket - $900, good set of used injectors - $400-700, 4k GSK and valve springs = $150-200, shop around for a good deal on a 62/71 and roll out
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i figured about 1500-2000 for a good running engine, what i may do is look around for a running truck that has some stuff already done to it and he can yank the engine out and just sell the truck and drivetrain to recoup the difference.....but who knows....

im going to start throwing stuff together tonite for a list.....
 
what forrest said

and do a search on here for fuel plate profiles and afc mods/adj

grind your own plate

and be careful - p-pumps fuel a lot with very little help

doubt you will need a zero plate profile to meet your 450hp goal

prolly get there with a 10 if everything is right

don
 
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since your towing i really wouldnt go with a 0 plate. as you doing need that much fuel. Go with a number 5, 8 or 10(cna be found on ebay for 50 bucks including shipping), put a 3gsk in it (you dont really need a 4 gsk unles you really plan on reving it that high and want to pay for the upgraded valve springs(110 for 12 but u only need 6). as for injectors 90s will do. you cna then match it with a 62 and u should be floating aorund 400 hp if not more.
 
I would think a set of 5X.012 injectors, 4K GSK, 16 degrees of timing, mod the AFC, 57/65 S300, 4 inch exhaust, gauges, should have you close. You may get by with a 35/40 on the turbo.
 
97 D-Tec said:
since your towing i really wouldnt go with a 0 plate. as you doing need that much fuel. Go with a number 5, 8 or 10(cna be found on ebay for 50 bucks including shipping), put a 3gsk in it (you dont really need a 4 gsk unles you really plan on reving it that high and want to pay for the upgraded valve springs(110 for 12 but u only need 6). as for injectors 90s will do. you cna then match it with a 62 and u should be floating aorund 400 hp if not more.
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I love my 100 for towing...
 
a zero plate does not have a profile - it is flat - might as well just remove the plate and throw it away

a 0 plate wont defuel at high rpm

for towing you dont need a ton of fuel down low and want it to pull fuel at high rpm (like when you are climbing a grade for instance) that is why i suggested a 10

even with the right plate you still have to (or should i say 'get to'...hehe) tune the afc

once you figure out how it works you can grind a plate to fit your needs

from what i gather ever truck is a little different

don
 
some

but you still have no curve

as long as you are giving it a little throttle and there is boost you are at max fuel

down low - which you dont want for towing

in the middle - that part is fine (but that is what a 10 plate is for)

and up top - which you dont want for towing

tuning the afc correctly is where it is at. different applications req diff tune up. before you can tune it you have to figure out how it works. the plate the spring and the adjustment of the spring tension are there for a reason. unless you could care less about closing down the frwy with smoke, crazy high egt's, and terrible milage. if thats the case just take the plate out and throw it away. but the cooling systems are too small for towing at 500 hp in the first place, even properly tuned, so if you are gonna do it you better try to make it as right as possible
 
i was not saying you didnt understand how it works, geez, you have prolly forgotten more about the p-pump than i know

DTanklage said:
before you can tune it you have to figure out how it works
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that was for the guy that started the thread

no, 'its not all about you'

lol

now, could you please explain your afc tune up as best possible?

if dude that started the thread isnt curious i sure am

dont see how that thing wouldnt be hot up top

(or smoke down low)

don

ps - what do you run for injectors and how heavy have ya towed?
 
DTanklage said:
i was not saying you didnt understand how it works, geez, you have prolly forgotten more about the p-pump than i know



that was for the guy that started the thread

no, 'its not all about you'

lol

now, could you please explain your afc tune up as best possible?

if dude that started the thread isnt curious i sure am

dont see how that thing wouldnt be hot up top

(or smoke down low)

don

ps - what do you run for injectors and how heavy have ya towed?
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I have a 0-plate, 5x0.14 injectors, .030 DVS, 19.5* timing with the plate full forward, and also a 62mm turbo. I have to work for it to hit 1600*. Granted the turbo helps some but I'm still missing your point of what is wrong with a 0-plate.
 
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