Injector wild goose chance

RobtheRedneck

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Feb 12, 2008
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Since DTR has become a "ghost town" ill repost this over here see if a thriving town might be able to come up with something. I guess im always a little behind the power curve on being in he "in place" LOL

I bought the truck used. I was pretty sure it had bigger injectors this was confermed on a Mustang Dyno. I dont know what they are so give me some ideas....please.

Facts
XZT+ turned off- 278hp and 591 ft/lbs

Would this be RV 275s or something bigger?

My reason to ask is car makers measure hp at flywheel HO 245hp at wheel id image youd see what 200hp at ground? Thus you would need 75-100hp sticks to see that kind of gain. Or do the rv 275 mean its putting 275hp to wheels?
Copy paste from DTR

Now some guys have said probably 100-130 hp injectors.

What hp would an HO get to the wheels stock?

How are injectors labeled. Are their part numbers on them, manufacture names, how do you tell if there just tips?

If i pulled an injector would i have to get a new crush plate or something to replace to keep from leeking or could i just put them right back in afteward? What would the torq would i tighten them back down to?
From DTR

What you all think

Sorry for all the amateur questions.
Thanks
Rob
 
My 02 HO made 192rwhp stock. That being said, I think it would take more than 130hp injectors to make another 70-80rwhp. I would think the easiest test would be to see if with the XZT off, if you lug the engine and put the pedal to the floor does it smoke at all? If it doesn't, I would bet you have stock or smaller aftermarket injectors...If you have 100+hp injectors it should smoke pretty strong.
 
I'll bet money that it has a cheap set of jammer 3 nozzles. If the injectors were worth more than 200 bucks, the original owner would have pulled them prior to sale.

No need to replace anything if you pull an injector, just be careful with the oring, if it gets marred at all, it will leak overflow fuel into your oil. In bad cases, this can make an extra quart of oil in a few hours of run time.

The copper washers are more of a shim than a crush-type gasket. Obviously they seal out the combustion chamber too.
 
My truck idle real smooth, once in a while it will stutte once, usally when cold, but the rest of the time she'll idle perfectly smooth. Want Jammers have a rougher idle.
 
Alright so i got the wild hair up my rear and id really like to know so... how hard is it to pull an injector and then put it back in. Will i need a new washer and what torq are you suppose to tighten them too?????

Also do i tell what kind of injector it is?????
 
Hard to notice a .010 difference or whatever it is between a stocker and yours unless you have them side by side. Pulling injectors is simple as hell. You can reuse the washers, o-rings, and connector tube o-rings. I like to put a little vaseline on the o-rings to help them slide in easier without damaging them.
 
If you really want to pull one go ahead. It is easy, like said above the washers are reusable unless damaged, same for the o-rings. The hold down torque spec is 19 IN-LB (not FT-LB, 19 FT-LB does bad things to hold down bolts)

There really is no point in pulling them though because 99.9% of the time there is no way to tell different injectors apart (without measuring the holes and hole count, not something easily done at home), and if the PO installed just tips, instead of full injectors then the only part number you are gonna see is the number for a stock injector. My Scheid injectors had a 6 digit number engraved near the top, but my Mach 4s did not have any noticeable identification on them.
 
Well shoot i guess ill just have to wounder. Doesnt sound like its worth the time if i will not be able to figure anything easily out. Darn. :doh:

Well i guess i should be pretty certain i got 100hp injectors and be happy :evil:woohoo:
 
Alright since we kinda got the injector thing figured out what do you all think about this.

WIth the XZT+ turned on (Supposedly in the high settin Dyno jocky did it) the truck only turned 300hp and 728tq while with the chip off she got 278hp and 591tq.

THat means that with the XZT+ (Once again supposedly on the max setting) i only gained 22 hp from it being off. That doesnt sound right to me.

What cha all think. Did the Dyno jocky screw up and only move switch to the timing setting instead of all the way over to the fuel/timing.

I know it was in the off position when he ran it for the off position.

Thanks
Rob
 
Jammers can idle smooth if they are pop tested and adjusted accordingly.

Dave Smith has trucks from everywhere! I know in Spokane, Davis Diesel used to extrude hone injectors and charge 600 bucks a set for them. They claimed that their honing process was good for 100 ish HP.

If your wastegate is setup to allow more than stock boost, the XZT+ on fuel and timing would have netted more than 22hp. If your wastegate is set to the stock 20ish psi, who knows what more fuel would do HP wise.
 
I was just asking cause that truck sounded just like a buddy of mines that was sold here in Mo. Only his was white.

When he bought the truck, it had injectors and he didn't know what kind or size, but they were somewhere around 100 horse or so.
 
I guess i better just go jump on a Dyno some where and make sure that the dyno jocky put it onto the correct settings and see how much my new adjustable waste gate helps.
 
Welcome over to Comp D from the looney bin. :D FWIW, my Jammer IV's idle fine when everything else is running right.
 
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