Instructions needed. CR 24V head studs

trucken

trucken

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Apr 7, 2008
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I could most likely figure it out, but. Sure would be nice if I only remove the very minimum parts to do this job.

Any ARP 247-4202 step by step instructions anyone has laying around maybe they could email them to me?

Streched the old ones at 80-100 lbs of boost. Oh well it took 2 yrs of drag racing to do it. I knew it would happen one day. I've stopped running that kind of boost. Now max is about 50-60 when I'm playing. No more serious drag racing. Too Expensive to break something.
 
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That Helps... Not So Much! That came with the studs.

See the problem is people just dont read throughly anymore, They read the first couple words and believe nothing further can be gleamed.

The BIG part of this request was: Well let me give an example to be sure of clearity.

1. Disconnect batteries.
2. Remove coolant completely (inc. block)
3. Remove intake horn.
4. Remove plastic cover off head.
5. Remove fuel rail.
6. Unplug injectors and return lines.
7. Now here is what I'm talking about....ARP Site doesn't have the steps.
 
When did mine I took cover and spacer off head, injectors out wo didn't break the top off by accident, crossover tubes and lines. Left rail on drained coolant partially due to ATS coolant line crossing over head now, rockers bridges.
 
Job is done. Thanks for all you guys help... It was a pain. Had to pull compound turbos, CP3, Exhaust Manifold, a lot of hoses, radiator, Turbo drain and supply lines. fender well, both batteries and trays. Exhaust bolts were the worst. Hard to get to.

Upside; It will be easier if I ever have to do it again.:) 4 days. Damn I'm slow.
 
Now valve lash is loose so I'm getting a (under hard acceleration) miss... POP, POP, POP.. Normal under normal driving or idle. Just misses under hard pedal. I think I need to adjust valves, they looked a little loose. 250,000 miles never adj them.
 
i just did my valve lash not that long ago with 130k miles. truck ran way smoother..
 
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