Intro/Project/Build thread - 24v Ppump etc

New injectors on the way.

Also cleaned up some no longer needed wiring under the hood and now I have a "no bus" displayed on the ODO. A search says that it should be a bad ground somewhere but I have to track it down also. Should be able to drive it this weekend.
 
did you get this truck from a little podunk town of carthage indiana?
 
WAT TURBO? said:
New injectors on the way.

Also cleaned up some no longer needed wiring under the hood and now I have a "no bus" displayed on the ODO. A search says that it should be a bad ground somewhere but I have to track it down also. Should be able to drive it this weekend.
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When you have "no bus" on there are you gauges working? This happened to me once while I was working on my truck. It ended up being the engine fuse in the fuse box there on the dashboard. I think it's #9 but don't quote me on that part.
 
Fox_91 said:
did you get this truck from a little podunk town of carthage indiana?
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Yes. Pendleton maybe? About an hour east of Indy.

rockytopcummins said:
When you have "no bus" on there are you gauges working? This happened to me once while I was working on my truck. It ended up being the engine fuse in the fuse box there on the dashboard. I think it's #9 but don't quote me on that part.
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The voltage gauge, speedo, and dash lights all work. I will check that fuse though. The ODO reads correctly when the truck is first started. After a few seconds, it reads no bus. I will check all the fuses shortly.
 
Installed new injectors, cleaned up alot of wiring yesterday. Took it for its maiden voyage last night. Its fun to drive but shifting it smoothly is a challenge. It sounds really good too. Ill make a date with the go pro soon. It leaked a good amount of oil out of the front of the motor....Like almost a quart in 35ish miles. I then remembered that I had reused an old timing cover crank seal. :/ Turns out it was cut and installed wrong in the timing cover. A new seal, and a few hours later, Im proud to say its leak free (for now) and still ugly as home made sin.

Doesnt smoke hardly any either under light load. Just hazes a little.

I have to drive it easy for a week or so (10-12 ish heat cycles) then re torque the head studs and adjust valves on more time before I lean on it. I cant wait.
 
Try holding the go pedal down a little bit when you go to start it and it probably won't have to crank as long

And what's going on with your belt setup?
 
WAT TURBO? said:
Its starts right up no problem. It doesnt have AC is probably why the belt routing is different.



North AL.
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Oh ok, mines starts just like in your video if I don't put pressure on the pedal but if I do touch the throttle you can barely hear the starter turn before its running
 
cumminsman315 said:
Oh ok, mines starts just like in your video if I don't put pressure on the pedal but if I do touch the throttle you can barely hear the starter turn before its running
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O ok I see what you are saying now. I guess its the 25* of timing that does it?

Had that stupid throttle rod come loose today on the way to work. Other than that its been great so far.
 
WAT TURBO? said:
O ok I see what you are saying now. I guess its the 25* of timing that does it?

Had that stupid throttle rod come loose today on the way to work. Other than that its been great so far.
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Every ppumped 24v I've been around starts like that but I'm also running close to 25*... And I've had that rod fall off a few times, did you use crazy carls kit?
 
cumminsman315 said:
Every ppumped 24v I've been around starts like that but I'm also running close to 25*... And I've had that rod fall off a few times, did you use crazy carls kit?
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No its just a stock and very rusty one. Im not familiar with crazy carl's kit. I would be interested in something that gives more adjustment though.
 
Thats nice looking but my throttle bracket is different looking than that one. Maybe because its a 6spd or maybe it has a 12v cable?

Also the truck stopped charging the electrical system. Worked fine for 3 days now it will only charge the batteries to around 12.9-13v. It has an external voltage regulator on it now. I will replace it tomorrow in hopes that it has gone bad. Checked all the grounds and fuses also.
 
It was the alternator. The old one had some oil build up inside from when the last head gasket let go. Works great now. Stole some attention at a local car show tonight too.
 
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Dumb question here but its got me stumped. These two connectors were just hanging out in the engine bay when I got the truck. Both were still connected to the harness on one side (possibility they may have been for the VP pump?). The half plug was as it is in the picture, and the plug on the right had every wire cut (top side in the pic) except for one black wire on one side which was grounded to the fender. Not seeing a need in having these connectors in there anymore, I cut them both off and connected the ground wire to the appropriate pin on the other side of the plug (bypassing the plug). Now, for the dumb part. Before I did anything with the wiring, the radio, door dinger, dash gauges and odo, all worked fine. Now I get a "no bus" message in the odo readout, the radio doesnt work, and the factory oil psi and water temp dont work either. Could there have been multiple wires in that connector that shared the ground? It doesnt make sense to me. Im trying to find a solution that doesnt involve putting the connectors back in. Any ideas?

BTW without the black wire being grounded, the starter doesnt get power.
 
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My old air dog did the same thing. on a side note can I have that intake sitting on the floor? lol
 
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