Irritated with trans

D Twigg

D Twigg

Starting to understand
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Messages
665
I've tried searchig but didn't have any luck. Ok so the trans in my 95 (truck in sig) has created and issue where going down the road it will lock and unlock and kick out of O/D, I mainly notice it happening when I hit a bump it seems but even while just cruising down the road doesn't matter if its cold or warm. If i push the lock up switch the converter stays locked in but it will still kick out of O/D. I've replaced the TPS with a POT and unpluged the trans sensor and and put a 1k ohm resistor in it and changed the fluid and filter with no luck at all. Has anyone had this happen to them before and if so what could be a fix. I'm on my last nerve with the dumb truck :bang.
 
Wrap the wire from the alternator to the passenger battery in aluminum foil.
 
Check the brake switch under the brake pedal. It can be reset but most of the time when it starts acting up its good to replace it. My old truck did this and it turned out to be the brake switch.
 
I'll try the brake pedal switch tomorrow. This may sound dumb and I'm not trying to second guess you but wouldn't that cause the brake lights to quit working if it was going bad? And again not second guessing but what does the aluminum foil do?
 
no it will cause them to flicker on and off..does your cruise control kick off too? if it does Ill bet brake switch..you just need to adjust it tighter to the pedal.
 
The brake switch doesnt necessarily become defective as far as the lights go. The pedal has to stay in complete contact with the switch at all times for o/d and lockup to work correctly. Mine got where the pedal wouldnt return all the way to the top when depressed, therefore the switch wasnt pressed correctly. A new switch fixed it.
 
No the cruise control works just fine just the O/D and lockup are screwing up. I'll post up tomorrow after work when and if I get the brake pedal switch and get it installed. Thanks for the quick help guys.
 
I've never been able to adjust the brake light switch. It's auto adjusting.

You can put something on the pedal or wrap around the pedal where the switch contacts it to take up the slack.
 
Well got the brake pedal swtich put into today and its still acting up :bang. Guess tomorrow I'll try the foil around the wires and any other ideas someone may have.
 
Clean and tighten the ground cables on the batteries should fix your problem.
 
What about checking the distance from the harmonic balancer/crank sensor, caused me some issues on my 47res a time or two. Im just drunk and that is just a random thought.
 
Since you are having so much trouble with it, check fluid level as well. When trans are very low on fluid overdrive doesn't hold.
 
I'll check that all out after work, fluid level I know is good because I had a leak that I fixedd topped off the level then. Does anyone know the air gap on the crank Senor isn't it like .49?
 
alot of wierd advice in here. I have found that on trucks that I replace the TPS with the Pot. after a good amount of time with the knob not being turned the computer gets confused. Usually when mine starts doing this I will cycle the knob a few times and it goes away.
 
I cycle the pot a good amount between towing and where and how I'm driving. I did not have a chance to regal the crank sensor do to work but I will do it tomorrow.
 
well oddly enough mine has started doing it and cycling it will not fix it. Only thing I can say is.....the computer has incoming signals (speed, tps, brake, etc) these all influence whether or not the computer is going to ground out the OD and LU solenoids. Make sure they are all working properly (connections, shorts, etc.). Next check to see if the computer is actually sending a continuous ground signal to the OD and LU solenoids (when desired of course). If the signal is constant but you are still getting lock and unlock then check all connections between computer and solenoids. If those are good then check the solenoids.
 
Update, I have not gotten a chance to regap the crank sensor being I've been working from sun up to sun down the last few days but first chance I can I will definitly gap it. If that fails how would i go about checking the wires? just turn the key to the run position and test or a different way?
 
Ok guys I finally got a chance to regap the sensor and look around more and all checked out and the problem still exists.
 
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