Is a 1 peice rear driveshaft not streetab?le

B

black12valve

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Truck is a 96 ECLB dually.I wanted to do the one rear for pu lling but I read on
hasileys Website its not to be drove on the street
 
depends on what tubing is used, i think .180 wall tubing at 4.1 In will hold.
 
Sorry about spelling my keys were messed up.
Thanks for the answer I didn't know if it was just too long.
I don't drive it very far or work it mostly just a toy
 
Get with supershafts on here, very knowledgeable and is a sponsor...
 
The wall thickness does not effect critical speed as greatly as the diameter of the tubing. Although to be fair, 4.095, .180 wall tubing is actually just a touch bigger in diameter than 4"

Get your center of kits dimension and know your joint series, start here to determine safe operating speed of your driveshaft http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~Decrits~

Then use this guys potential speed calculator, with your tire size and gear ratio, only where it says Max engine RPM, enter the safe operating speed Dana's calculator gives you into the max engine RPM category it you will have your max "safe" speed.
 
Driveshaft Jim at Rowe truck in Lafayette will tell you it can't be done for street driving. I asked this same question when my first carrier crapped out on me. Said he builds them for pullers all the time, but eventually over time it will not be truly straight anymore and you will get a bad vibe. . .

On the other hand, if you find one that works, and doesn't give you any problems please post some info about it.

Thanks man!
 
When I had custom clutch in Cleveland Ohio make mine they said not to drive them on the street due to vibration and acting like a jump rope. I forget what the max length they recommended for the street was
 
GOT-Torque said:
I know a couple that did it and it was fine up to 90 mph, no vibs. Just sayin...
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Its safer with 3.55s than it is with 4.10s...... But again, i posted the neccessary calculators for folks to do there own homework for there particular needs.
 
When i drove mine on the street i had one. Eclb and 4.10's. I ran over 80 alot and was fine at about 100 and never gave an issue. O and thats 3.5" tube.
 
pwrstrokenstang said:
When i drove mine on the street i had one. Eclb and 4.10's. I ran over 80 alot and was fine at about 100 and never gave an issue. O and thats 3.5" tube.
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And what was the length of the driveshaft? An accurate measurement within an inch or two? I build driveshafts for a living, i have been doing it 10+ years. The shop i work at has been building driveshafts since.....well since the majority of manufacturers started using driveshafts instead of torque tubes.

Nobody ever wants to listen when you tell them what needs to be checked to replace a 2 piece (or a 5" aluminum shaft for that matter) driveshaft with a single piece. I posted the calculator for people to do there own homework for there application and decide for themselves. Please do that folks.
 
Why not remove the crappy carrier bearing and use a pillow block instead? Something strong and with a good sized bearing on a heavy duty mount and use 1410 or 1480 yokes at minimum and it should hold up...
 
1pieceatatime. said:
And what was the length of the driveshaft? An accurate measurement within an inch or two? I build driveshafts for a living, i have been doing it 10+ years. The shop i work at has been building driveshafts since.....well since the majority of manufacturers started using driveshafts instead of torque tubes.

Nobody ever wants to listen when you tell them what needs to be checked to replace a 2 piece (or a 5" aluminum shaft for that matter) driveshaft with a single piece. I posted the calculator for people to do there own homework for there application and decide for themselves. Please do that folks.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna listen last thing I want to do is spend the money and ruin it.
I love pulling but I do it just for fun my trucker no monster by no means just thought it might be stronger and more safe
 
LOGANSTANFORTH said:
Why not remove the crappy carrier bearing and use a pillow block instead? Something strong and with a good sized bearing on a heavy duty mount and use 1410 or 1480 yokes at minimum and it should hold up...
Click to expand...

Because a pillow block will not have the longevity of a regular carrier bearing. There is a reason it is rubber mounted....... I see chevys fords and dodges, farm trucks/ plow trucks with sanders and all manner of contractors and pullers who use there trucks for trucks and never touch there driveshafts for the first 150k miles.
 
Good information. Thanks for the information! I have also seen class 8 carriers destroyed by a dmax. Hope to be able to go one piece after some calculations
 
I had a 4" 2piece drive shaft made a few years back. I requested a heavier carrier bearing to be used. I have since traded it for a 1 piece since the truck is a puller only.
The 2 piece is on its second season on a 3.0 puller.
 
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