Issues w/benched pump!!

I understand the unmoded afc not allowing full rack travel. I'll get to that at some point. I had the mack plug put in because the pump was off and it's easy to do it then. Not because I'm ready to utilize full rack travel. I still have too many stock parts!! How much more movement or fueling is available past the 0 plate full forward? It is a ground stock plate, so there could be some variation there.

Anybody have any comments about the rack adj. screw? I'm thinking that my set up has that dialed in the wrong direction.
 
I understand the unmoded afc not allowing full rack travel. I'll get to that at some point. I had the mack plug put in because the pump was off and it's easy to do it then. Not because I'm ready to utilize full rack travel. I still have too many stock parts!! How much more movement or fueling is available past the 0 plate full forward? It is a ground stock plate, so there could be some variation there.

Anybody have any comments about the rack adj. screw? I'm thinking that my set up has that dialed in the wrong direction.

Not sure what you're eluding to with the "rack screw"...might clarify that so we can give better advice. It would also be good to know what pump model you're working with...or what year truck and auto/manual trans. Also post up what other supporting mods you have done like injectors, lift pump, turbo, etc. as that would make a big difference.

Regardless, you dealt with a non-performance fuel shop, just like the majority of fuel shops are. Also, regardless of pump model, you should be able to get quite a bit of fuel out of your pump even if it was only calibrated slightly above stock. Be sure the afc is modded for full travel, look at the plate and be sure it is ground down truly flat for a zero profile, make sure the high idle screw is turned in all the way and allows max lever travel, then verify fuel pressure at the pump is good, and you should have an ample supply of fuel.
 
Not sure what you're eluding to with the "rack screw"...might clarify that so we can give better advice. It would also be good to know what pump model you're working with...or what year truck and auto/manual trans. Also post up what other supporting mods you have done like injectors, lift pump, turbo, etc. as that would make a big difference.

Regardless, you dealt with a non-performance fuel shop, just like the majority of fuel shops are. Also, regardless of pump model, you should be able to get quite a bit of fuel out of your pump even if it was only calibrated slightly above stock. Be sure the afc is modded for full travel, look at the plate and be sure it is ground down truly flat for a zero profile, make sure the high idle screw is turned in all the way and allows max lever travel, then verify fuel pressure at the pump is good, and you should have an ample supply of fuel.


What kind of AFC mod's do you do when benching a pump Seth?
 
What kind of AFC mod's do you do when benching a pump Seth?

The same as everyone else...flip or machine the washers, machine the barrel down on the arm, and occasionally do some mill work to the rear cover to allow more de-fuel or pre-boost travel. I've played with a few different spring set-ups as well, but no super secret squirrel type stuff.
 
The same as everyone else...flip or machine the washers, machine the barrel down on the arm, and occasionally do some mill work to the rear cover to allow more de-fuel or pre-boost travel. I've played with a few different spring set-ups as well, but no super secret squirrel type stuff.
Is there any benefit to opening up the mounting holes on the afc housing to allow for more sliding to the front or to the rear?
 
Is there any benefit to opening up the mounting holes on the afc housing to allow for more sliding to the front or to the rear?

For almost all purposes I would say no...when set up correctly, full rack travel can be achieved with the housing slid all the way back. The only reason to modify the slots more would be someone with a 13mm wanting to pull even more fuel away from the lower end. However, the stock slots should be able to pull plenty of fuel away even with 13mm b&p.
 
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