Keeps slipping timing..

I've had good luck cleaning them really good with 3M high power brake cleaner, but anything that needs to be changed often or anything that my unlucky ass is going to be driving gets an adjustable.
 
Maybe I am paranoid but I'm not a fan of high torque on the cam treads. I have seen the results of stripping those threads. At that point you have two ways to go neither of which are cheap....
 
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While I agree that over torquing is bad, keep in mind the amount of torque and the size of the fastener. On most generators I work on, M20x2.5 is 340 n-m, which is 250 ft-lbs.

http://www.rpmmech.com/pdf/tightening-torque.pdf

Some food for thought. I'm not recommending using this high of torque. Just that higher than 200 ft-lbs won't necessarily lead to thread failure. More likely damage to the gear.
 
I would use an elctric contact cleaner spray both mating surfaces inside the hear and on the shaft. Then wipe both surfaces clean with a fresh dry paper shop towell that has worked good for me.
 
Good choice- Brake clean or electrical contact cleaner

Best choice- Adjustable pump gear
 
Drothgeb said:
Good choice- Brake clean or electrical contact cleaner
Click to expand...

Best stuff I have come across is LPS No Flash NU electrical contact cleaner. It evaporates in about 5 seconds, depending on the temp of the surface and how much you spray. For doing timing, its ideal. Other contact cleaners and brake clean's can leave a residue, and take some time to evaporate.
 
I usually leave a bolt threaded in the gear and bounce it around while I'm spraying. That usually takes care of the residue.
 
Thanks for all the tips and advice guys!

Got another question, the threads are a little boogered up making it tough to take the nut off and screw it on. What are some good ideas to clean up the threads without taking the pump off the truck?
 
we have the same problem at work with the camshaft gear slipping on the older isx's, the ones with the camshaft in the head and no keyway. we clean the shaft with scotch brite, use red locktight on the shaft and make sure to torque the nut down asap or within 5 min of applying the locktight. makes the gear a harder to pull back off but you never worry about slipping. as for your threads i would use a die like others have said but personally i would remove the pump just to be safe with the metal shavings. more work but in return more play time, less worry.
 
Cat used "bearing mount" compound for years and then switched to loctites labelling. Either way the stuff was green. I've seen it need a torch for removal. I don't know where it stands on the scale of removal to permanent.


From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
biggy238 said:
Cat used "bearing mount" compound for years and then switched to loctites labelling. Either way the stuff was green. I've seen it need a torch for removal. I don't know where it stands on the scale of removal to permanent.


From my Not-So-Smart phone
Click to expand...

It's permanent, bolts will twist off before coming loose. Learned a bit about that stuff from my old instructor. The story goes that in his early days of rebuilding engines he assembled an entire 3106 with the green stuff. Sucks to be the poor bastard rebuilding that engine today....LOL
 
The green stuff (now yellow, it seems) is wicking for retaining bearings on shafts and the like. Not so much for thread-locking.

That being said, I wouldn't recommend that for the pump gear. Some of the ones I've had to pop loose with just a dry fit were ridiculous. Add some loctite to it and you'd definitely need a torch.
 
good info coming guys! i appreciate all the info yall have given. i just ordered a die, so when that comes in, ill have the pump off to fix the threads. ill give the shaft and the gear a good cleaning, a little sanding, and a new washer, and see how she holds!
 
adjustable gear and be done with it. best investment i could have made on my conversion.
 
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