Kinda in a Dilemma

Dieselkid said:
I think If I went with a Dodge it be the 5.9L or the 6.7L
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as opposed to what? all cummins engines in dodge pickup trucks are a 5.9 or a 6.7 the 12 valve were a 5.9 with a mechanical pump ve/p pump, the 98.5-02 are also 5.9 with 2 more valves per cylinder and an electronic fuel system, the 03- i believe 06 is also a 24 valve with a common rail fuel system, and lastly the 6.7L is also a 24 valve kinda the same concept as the 03-06 but larger dispacement and more emissions garbage..
 
cumminspower88 said:
as opposed to what? all cummins engines in dodge pickup trucks are a 5.9 or a 6.7 the 12 valve were a 5.9 with a mechanical pump ve/p pump, the 98.5-02 are also 5.9 with 2 more valves per cylinder and an electronic fuel system, the 03- i believe 06 is also a 24 valve with a common rail fuel system, and lastly the 6.7L is also a 24 valve kinda the same concept as the 03-06 but larger dispacement and more emissions garbage..
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dam it this has me thinking, Just in general are diesels easier to work on then gas engines? I have worked with diesels engine before, but not long enough for me to Grasp enough information.
 
It is worth mentioning that diesels really should be allowed to warm up before you flog them, and they should have a little idle time before shutting them down to keep the turbo happy. If you are looking or cheap, a 6.7l is out of the question for you. With the 6.0 PS, you also have to remember that they have some turbo issues as well. The 7.3 PS will get you some pretty decent fuel economy. A 6.5 in a chevy can get decent MPG as well, but a much lower power potentia than the 7.3 or cummins.l. The 12v Cummins is probably your best bet. They may not have any computer sensors, but they are as simple as you can get. They are easier to troubleshoot, because there are so many fewer parts than more modern engines. As far as the cost to fill the tank, that doesnt matter. A diesel will get you more MPG's than a typical gasser which means that if they do cost more to fill, then you can just go that much farther on the tank of fuel.
 
Random_user said:
It is worth mentioning that diesels really should be allowed to warm up before you flog them, and they should have a little idle time before shutting them down to keep the turbo happy. If you are looking or cheap, a 6.7l is out of the question for you. With the 6.0 PS, you also have to remember that they have some turbo issues as well. The 7.3 PS will get you some pretty decent fuel economy. A 6.5 in a chevy can get decent MPG as well, but a much lower power potentia than the 7.3 or cummins.l. The 12v Cummins is probably your best bet. They may not have any computer sensors, but they are as simple as you can get. They are easier to troubleshoot, because there are so many fewer parts than more modern engines. As far as the cost to fill the tank, that doesnt matter. A diesel will get you more MPG's than a typical gasser which means that if they do cost more to fill, then you can just go that much farther on the tank of fuel.
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I would think the 12v's would harder to work on for that very specific reason due to it not having many sensor's I would think it would be harder to diagnose a problem no? are these run by OBD I or II?

I already knew about letting them warming up first, in the newer trucks you gotta turn the accessories on for like 10 secs before you start it so the glow plugs get warm. you can't start a diesel right away, although I've heard stories where that isn't the case for the 6.4L.
 
If you really really really need a diesel truck now 12V is for you in your situation. Diesel generally have higher maintenence costs, and some cases operating costs. If I were you I'd buy somthing to get me through school or whatever and just keep saving your money for a truck when you get done with school and get a job. Reality sucks, but if your making minimum wage and putting yourself through school, a nice diesel truck with payments wont make school any easier. Not trying to talk you out of a diesel, just trying to talk you out of putting yourself through alot of unneeded stress.
 
z79outlaw said:
If you really really really need a diesel truck now 12V is for you in your situation. Diesel generally have higher maintenence costs, and some cases operating costs. If I were you I'd buy somthing to get me through school or whatever and just keep saving your money for a truck when you get done with school and get a job. Reality sucks, but if your making minimum wage and putting yourself through school, a nice diesel truck with payments wont make school any easier. Not trying to talk you out of a diesel, just trying to talk you out of putting yourself through alot of unneeded stress.
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I already graduated HS, I don't think I am going to college if thats what you meant, don't really have the ability for it. If I have to settle for a 93-97 7.3L I will. I am sure gas is gonna suck in it but what else is new, I much rather have a 99-up PS but we"ll see. I just look at working on 12V a little harder to work on due to it not having many sensor's etc, so It better harder to work on cause you don't have a computer throwing codes at you.
 
Dieselkid said:
I already graduated HS, I don't think I am going to college if thats what you meant, don't really have the ability for it. If I have to settle for a 93-97 7.3L I will. I am sure gas is gonna suck in it but what else is new, I much rather have a 99-up PS but we"ll see. I just look at working on 12V a little harder to work on due to it not having many sensor's etc, so It better harder to work on cause you don't have a computer throwing codes at you.
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Must of mis-read your post then I thought you said somthing about diesel tech school
 
Don't get a 24V. 12V's are much better for starting off...especially if you get a standard shift. When i was 18 i graduated college with a full time job and was going to take a year off of school to figure out what i wanted and just work...so i got my truck in august....lost my job shortly there after and it was a nightmare until last year when i paid it off....i was young and dumb and bought the wrong dang truck. Don't get me wrong i love me truck now, but looking back if i would have waited a little longer i would have got the truck i wanted for way less then i paid for it. All i am saying is just think about what your doing and what your really looking for. Make sure you can pay for it because i had to work my BUTT off to pay for this truck and really really struggle to make payments. Great trucks but alot of work involved...unless mommy and daddy will pay for it...
 
bud, it all depends on your pocketbook. i just swapped my injectors back in my 2007 5.9 and it took me 2.5 hrs including my dinner break. old stuff = you just have to know what ur doin, the payoff too that is cheap cost. the new stuff u plug a computer into ( i think if ur a tard and dont know...lol) that tradeoff is 500hp with just programmers. but that comes with a steep buy-in cost. like everyone is saying, if u want something to putz with, buy a 94-98 12v. the parts are cheaper and u get to put that gay computer down and be a real mechanic! regardless what route, its addicting!
 
z79outlaw said:
Must of mis-read your post then I thought you said somthing about diesel tech school
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that was two years ago man, I left that class after like 2-3 months can't remember off hand, I went into a Automotive class. Diesel was hard for me to understand at the time, cause they were teaching **** about Tractor Trailer **** etc, more or less to get you into a Tractor trailer repair shop, I really just wanted to know the basics at the time.

The way the teacher spoke of things made things difficult to understand. But If I really wanted to work on cars and trucks etc I could. But I just dont have the means for it in all honesty. I rather just work on it on my time and when things really need to be repaired etc.
 
ktmracer21 said:
bud, it all depends on your pocketbook. i just swapped my injectors back in my 2007 5.9 and it took me 2.5 hrs including my dinner break. old stuff = you just have to know what ur doin, the payoff too that is cheap cost. the new stuff u plug a computer into ( i think if ur a tard and dont know...lol) that tradeoff is 500hp with just programmers. but that comes with a steep buy-in cost. like everyone is saying, if u want something to putz with, buy a 94-98 12v. the parts are cheaper and u get to put that gay computer down and be a real mechanic! regardless what route, its addicting!
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I am not gonna be throwing performance mods at it right away or if at all. I find it difficult to diagnose something without a computer I am sorry that's just the way I am. didn't know I was a retart for knowing more about modern technology then the past.
 
Dieselkid said:
I am not gonna be throwing performance mods at it right away or if at all. I find it difficult to diagnose something without a computer I am sorry that's just the way I am. didn't know I was a retart for knowing more about modern technology then the past.
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The attitude aint gonna help you here buddy.

I can diagnose a 12v way faster than a 24v... It's all what you know/learn. I'd much rather work on a diesel than a gasser.

And you might have guessed from the name, but this site is more than a little performance oriented.
 
:poke:All diesels run on the same concept. You should be able to diagnose something without a computer. Especially on a 12v that has no sensors to throw curve balls at you. If your good at just changing parts you should really learn how to troubleshoot as well. If you would have learned about the tractor trailers you'd be able to work on pretty much any diesel. That's just my 2 cents.
 
displacedtexan said:
The attitude aint gonna help you here buddy.

I can diagnose a 12v way faster than a 24v... It's all what you know/learn. I'd much rather work on a diesel than a gasser.

And you might have guessed from the name, but this site is more than a little performance oriented.
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sorry didn't know I was coming off with an attitude!

L6powered said:
:poke:All diesels run on the same concept. You should be able to diagnose something without a computer. Especially on a 12v that has no sensors to throw curve balls at you. If your good at just changing parts you should really learn how to troubleshoot as well. If you would have learned about the tractor trailers you'd be able to work on pretty much any diesel. That's just my 2 cents.
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Yea well there was a lot involved thats why.
 
So if your concerned about working on your truck, tell me this. Would you rather work on this (where you have to lift the cab to do injector swaps, etc.) or would you rather work on a very simple NO Computer 12V where you could sit in the engine bay on either side and work on your engine.

0708dp_03_z+2008_ford_super_duty_power_stroke+under_hood.jpg




inthehole.jpg


If you think you would rather work on the powerstroke because it has computer to tell you whats wrong, then you should definitely go buy a a lil rice burner and put a nitrous kit in it with a red button on the steering wheel that you can push when you have that need for speed. (the one that when you push it everything gets blurry and your car becomes invincible)
 
cumminspower88 said:
just buy a neon and be done with it.
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X2. How many people do you want to hear tell you to buy a 12 valve. A diesel is the easiest engine to work on. It requires air and fuel. That's it. Mechanically controlled engines have no computer to control engine operation, so it is much easier to troubleshoot. If your looking to spend 20,000 buy something you'll enjoy. We are trying to have you buy something more reliable in the price range of $2000-$18000 and you keep asking the same questions over and over again. The best truck for the money is hands down a first gen 89-93. Best years of those are 91-93 that came with an air-to-air aftercooler. If you don't mind changing front end/ chassis parts then buy a second gen 12 valve 94-98.5. The best years are 96-98.5, but you should buy a 94-95 because it's not Obd II and you may learn something. Not everything can be fixed or diagnosed with a computer.

P.S.:
If any of this information was not helpful, please go buy a lime green eagle talon tell everybody it runs 12's and put stick-on side vents and air tabs all over it, and a fart can too. Oh and if it starts making weird knocking sounds, hook it up to a scan tool and read what the sensors are reading and just start changing parts... You will change the right part eventually.
 
Dieselkid said:
sorry didn't know I was coming off with an attitude!
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The first time I read your post the end came of a lot worse than it is this morning.

Good job with the pics Lavon, which engine looks easier to work on to you?

And like xtreme said, you seem worried about reliability and easy to work on, how many people do you have to have tell you to get a 12v. They are simple, reliable, easy to work on and easy to get more power out of (and you are the only person on this site unconcerned with that...)

Sensors don't tell you everything. Learning how to trouble shoot a problem with out a computer might be the best thing for your abilities as a mechanic. Shoot, we troubleshoot issues over the internet all the time...

Get a 12v, or an Eagle Talon with all sorts of stickers. Stickers add hp...
 
Wow, alot of Hostility here!, wow didn't think Comp D would be like this maybe you should change your slogan. There was no need for that. Last time I checked I don't have to buy what you guys recommend, I just asked for pros and cons of each vehicle.

To the guy who said you have to lift the cab off the F-series trucks to work on the injectors etc, Is it the same for the Excursion since its relatively the same vehicle. I know the excursion has different suspension and what not.

My friend is a diesel tech and he tells me regardless of the Diesel vehicle they're expensive to fix etc. Is a 7.3L IDI easy to work on as well, or is it hell just like the 7.3L and 6.0?

I think If I went the dodge route Id go with the 2nd Gen 12v. thats when they converted to the p-pump correct, early 97 or 98 maybe eariler.
 
I'm not sure about the excursion, but just remember that the V8 powerstroke is wider and fills the engine bay up a lot more then an inline 6 cummins. Guys fix there powerstrokes at home all the time, the difference is time. I can have the injectors out of my truck in 28minutes. with a powerstroke, totally different story! Your first time would probably take you 8hrs.

If you want to buy a 7.3L IDI, go for it, but the parts are a little more expensive and you'll spend more time fixing it, but if your a Ford guy and REALLY want a Ford, go buy one, dig into the forums and learn how to fix it.

You were asking about simplicity and stating your on a tight budget, that is why your having everyone recommend a 12V.

Lavon
 
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