LB7 modification: Daily Driver/Tow Duramax

Dug a little deeper and found the Nicktane website which was very informative. Would you guys recommend running the auxiliary setup or the one that adapts the factory filter head. Those CAT filters aren't as cheap as Fleetguard, but are still 1/2 what a new WIX one costs.
 
RickDLance made a nice 3" downpipe, but for some reason it didnt fit when I was doing test fit for him. I think he fixed whatever it was causing that. I just decided to leave the stock downpipe as I couldnt see any real benefit. I didnt see the necessity to put that much effort into saving 50*-100*.
No, the 3.5" version never worked out. I didnt have the time, tools or ability to put the work into making it fit.

Nick's filter adapter is a nice piece. Many other companies have copied it since he designed it. Its worth it simply b/c of the money you save on filters. I used to run a Raptor pump and my own filter setup, but the pump died, so I pulled everything back out.
 
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Yes, after some quick math, I'll be ordering the Nicktane adapter kit and returning the $45 Wix fuel filter. Seems like a good investment.

I was planning on buying the PPE boost valve, but my mind starting doing that thing again, yes, thinking. Whats the verdict on the boost valve vs BD Turnbuckle? I'm not familiar with the LB7 turbos but is there a reason not to run a spring actuator that works off of drive pressure rather than boost?
 
I have the Nicktane adapter on mine, nice piece, saves a lot of $$. You can generally get a Cat filter for $12-15. Run a lift pump as close to the tank as possible IMO.

Never heard of that BD actuator. For as cheap as a PPE boost valve is I'd run one of those. If you aren't fueling it very hard it might not really benefit. Kennedy makes an adjustable boost valve but idk how well it works. Only problem I see with the BD actuator running on drive pressure, is that a stock turbo isnt going to flow that well, so if its set at 30psi drive press it might not be any more boost than stock?

If you know someone that works in a machine shop, or if you are handy yourself, a boost valve wouldn't be too hard to make. BUT good luck finding the right office size...
 
Don't bother with aftermarket waste gate or actuator. Just add the valve and leave it.
 
IMO, there is no point to waste the money. The OEM actuator does a good enough job. Too difficult to get the aftermarket one dialed in. Boost valve is literally install and go. I would consistantly hit 32-33lbs boost every single time down the track, no more, no less. You dont want to go above that boost with stock turbo anyway.
 
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It really wouldn't cost me anything for springs, I've got a dozen laying around I used to tune the wastegate on my 12v twins. I might cave and just do a PPE for simplicity, but I'll eventually have to try the spring gate. I know I'm driving you up the wall Bac, but I do appreciate the insight on this stuff.

Also had a small development after a trip to the post office... I got a late Christmas gift, a PPE Hot+2 E.T. It's not brand new, but I guess the price was right. In the manual I found it's got older tunes on it that only go to 350hp, with a few that are "low timing stackable". I called PPE already with some questions and they said they will update it to the newest version, pretty good customer support. I wasn't expecting this, but now I'm stuck between keeping the tuner or selling it and going with my original plan of EFI live. I've read lots of good things about both.
 
"Only" 350hp :lolly:

That's additional HP at the crank according to PPE. Just run one of the lower tunes I'm sure you'll be happy with it for now. I wouldn't bother getting it updated, I doubt they changed very much. That PPE is always good to keep around, since it will probably tune 01-10 trucks, so if you sell this one it'll work on the next too.
 
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You arent bothering me at all, Bersaglieri. Its all my opinion anyway. Some things work, some dont.
 
Right? This truck doens't even make 350hp as it sits lol.

I asked PPE about whether is was even worth sending in, since I wasn't planning on using the "big" tunes. She explained the tunes are similar to a degree, but updating the tuner allows for GM updates without causing tuner/ecm compatibility issues. I'm not sure if the tuner would work with the newer models I'll have to ask about that. The manual says 2001-2005 LB7/LLY and 2006 H1 Duramax.

Here are the old power levels according to the manual:

1. 50hp /97tq [Economy Performance]
2. 90hp /160tq [Tow Performance]
3. 120hp /200tq [Tow Performance]
4. 160hp /265tq [High Performance] (LLY 180hp/265tq)
5. 221hp /332tq [Race Performance]
6. 300hp /460tq [Hot Performance]
7. 244hp /356tq [Hot ET eliminator low timing stackable]
8. 262hp /383tq [Hot+2 ET eliminator low timing stackable]
9. 330hp /503tq [Hot ET eliminator]
10. 350hp /530tq [Hot+2 ET eliminator]

I'm new to this, but the way they are noted it seems 7 and 8 are just lower timing versions of 9 and 10. However when I asked her about stacking she said they don't really recommend that anymore. I couldn't find notes on the updated tunes, but the tunes seem to build up evenly till 425hp. I'm guessing new 7 and 8 are just revised versions of the old 7, 8, 9 and new 9 is the old 10.

1. 40hp /97tq
2. 90hp /160tq
3. 120hp /200tq
4. 160hp /240tq
5. 225hp /335tq
6. 260hp /400tq
7. 300hp /460tq
8. 325hp /480tq
9. 350hp /530tq
10. 425hp /620tq

Good Mr. Bac. How do you feel about running this PPE tuner in general? What about vs EFI with a optimized stock, light tow, street, hot street, and ?? I was going to add economy but I'm guessing that's pretty similar to optimized stock? I was planning on hot street to cover my bases for an inevitable transmission replacement later.
 
I ran 12.63 with a Hot+2 back in 2008 in my CC/SB. Very good handheld.
That was with a stock wastegate + boost valve running 32lbs boost ;), lift pump, intake, exhaust, built trans and weight reduction.
EFILive is a better option over a handheld simply b/c the tuner can customize the tune to your truck, as no two trucks are the same. Most of the tuners I know have developed very good stock trans tunes, and you really cant go wrong with any of the top guys. Plus, nowadays you can get an Autocal that you can update later when you upgrade the trans. I always recommend that you call the guys whose tuning youre interested in, and talk to them directly about what your goals and future plans are.
 
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There's that damn boost valve [I'm just gonna buy a used one and be done with it]. The PPE seems to have held the best handheld tuner crown since the Duramax was in it's early days. However, I like the idea of being able to 'knob' to another tune when necessary. After loading up a few tunes with the PPE since Monday, I'm already growing tired of it. I guess I'm too indecisive to stick to one tune. I did ship it back to get updated regardless.

The only reason I'm really considering EFI live is because of it's diagnostics, data logging, gasser compatibility, expandability to other trucks... aw hell who am I kidding, it's better in lots of ways. I'll probably run with the PPE for a while for the experience, log my results, then give it to my sister for her LLY.

In regards to filtration. I posted a WTB ad on DD for a nicktane and I'm getting remote filter offers, the ones for the frame rail. Is this a decent way to go and just delete the factory location? I just want to save some money on filters and keep my injectors alive.

Also I know I won't be able to dodge the bullet forever, so whats the newest deal with transmissions? Mine's got almost 300,000 on it and it's foolish to think it'll take any sort of fun without self-destructing. In my early LB7 days there were only a few cowboys in town, ATS, Suncoast, and Mike L. What are the current "levels" and what should I look for in builds? I'm sure my high mileage trans will need more than just soft parts when it eventually comes out.

Lastly are the ported intake elbows worth it? If I can get one for $30 or so?

.
 
The remote Nicktane kits are the same concept of filtration, just have to splice the fuel line and they're more expensive when new.

As far as transmissions go, ATS has fell off the map with the Dmax community if you ask me. Big Dipper is popular, Mike as usual, Merchant Auto, Danville is building them as well as All Season. Most of these guys are using PPE/Suncoast parts. The only way to get out of it "cheaper" would be to do it yourself, BUT most everyone will advise against it. Can you do it? Sure, I built mine. I'm a mechanic, if I can't build a trans I better get a desk job somewhere. If you feel comfortable and take your time, don't drink while doing so, and feel comfortable with the possibility of having to pull it again and replace a burnt clutch pack or two because you forgot to check this or that, by all means go ahead.
 
I like the 'don't drink while do so' LOL. I used to have a nice allison manual, but I loaned it out and it never came back. I'm not sure if I'd take it on or not, but I see what you're saying. I'm not a official mechanic but I've build some high performance gas motors, setup rear ends, dug into a 4L80e, and general stuff like that. I do have some dealership friends who are and could probably help for beer... er uh, pizza since we don't want them drinking. What all special tools are needed with an Ally? I know the Dodges have that heavy overdrive spring that you need to be careful with.

In regards to the intake elbow, I noticed they also make a 3.5" one. That seems more appropriate in my eyes that a ported one that just cleans up the end with a lip. ProFab sells them for $100ish, but again are they worth it at 500hp and under?
 
The gain on the turbo inlet may be minimal, but I would get it IMO. Kinda like the LLY inlet, may not be necessary for 400hp, but at or less than $100 everyone upgrades it.

As far as special tools, you need to make a compressor for the c3/c4 packs (I made mine out of 8"x1" flat stock pieces and all thread), and an apparatus to compress the c1/c2 assembly, which I did with my previous setup and some 4" exhaust pipe. A small press will help better for the c1 assembly IMO but I didn't have one. The larger snap rings in the case for c3/c4 can be taken out with the open end of a wrench. You also don't NEED to take the output shaft/P3 off the tail housing it will just the heavy as a mofo doing so.

Again, no drinking until after the test drive. Nothing more disrespectful than calling a well known shop for advice (at their expense) and having loud music and/or drunks yelling in the background LOL
 
Don't forget about your transfer case... It likely needs attention and a Merchant Automotive "Pump Rub Fix" kit... Look into it if you haven't already... But the T-cases are VERY prone to wear and the Merchant kit will stop it, but if it is already worn through and dry you will likely have some damage to repair and may need a new case half or at least a tube of JB Weld!

My T-case was bone dry when we looking into it and there was a lot of wear and the case half needed to be replaced. But it should last forever now...
 
Good info on the trans, depending on when the trans burns up and if I'm in need of the truck will probably determine what route I take.

Yea, I've been meaning to check that for a hole and leak. I see a lot of kits for them, what all do I need just the clip kit or is there a better way?

Also where's the cheapest place for a heater delete plug and Nick Tane kit? I see a few plugs on ebay for $14.

Probably leave the intake elbow alone until I work up to buying the Profab 3.5" one. Just seems right to keep the intake track as large as possible up to the mouth of the turbo.
 
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As for the heater delete kit go down to your local auto parts store and get a 01 dodge engine oil drain plug. The threads on the plug should be M22x1.5. Did it on mine and its been going strong with no issues. Also if you get some Transmission safe tuning from a reputable tuna and you shouldn't have much issues with it. Don't buy into the transgo JR shift kits you have to pull the transmission to do it and you don't gain much
 
FYI...You'll want a full Transgo kit. Transgo JR isnt for a 5 speed Allison. Its meant for the LBZ-up six speeds.

Intake horn isnt really needed below 500rw. It adds a bit if you're looking for every last drop of HP.
 
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