Let's talk flex plates

ROSKOE115

SLICKER THAN A FRESH BASS
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
3,492
So my truck lost a input shaft last Friday and long story short, it broke to where I don't have to rebuild everything. The converter is still good and everything. Which is good since I am so broke.

I am Planning on replacing the input with a billet and change the front clutch band. I also want to put a flex plate in that can hold up well but isn't stupid expensive. Thinking a laminated one will work but not sure where to go to get one or have one made?

What are your thoughts as into the best way to do this without spending a whole lot of money? I will probably be 600hp max and that will be a long time from now with the job I have.
 
Im happy with my Suncoast double laminate. Saved a ton over a billet one. Plus if your only looking at 600 i think you will be good.
 
I'm running one like this for the past year and beating the hell out of it, triple disc billet shafts LOCKED shifts, no issues.
DODGE 359 5.9L CUMMINS SFI FLEXPLATE 152T INT. '83-07:eBay Motors (item 400083682535 end time Dec-05-09 17:53:29 PST)

Just be sure to have a COMPETENT shop install it as it is not stock thickness and may push on the pump.

Yeah good point. Come to think of it, Ive got a TC lockup switch on my truck and have made quite a few 1st to 2nd tire barking shifts with the TC locked. Hasnt broke yet.
 
Im running my own home brew laminated plate... cost me 20 bucks plus 2 minutes on the lathe.
 
im running the suncoast also no problems here. truck is a little over 600 and been pulled etc.
 
Im running my own home brew laminated plate... cost me 20 bucks plus 2 minutes on the lathe.

That was what I was going to do but opted not to due to not having the tools to do it.
 
Heath... Gimmie a call. I'll tell you a trick or 2 that will save you some change.
 
That was what I was going to do but opted not to due to not having the tools to do it.

Then just bring it to a machine shop, i didnt do it like most people and use only the center, i actually only machined off at the lip right after the converter bolt holes then bolted everything together, no welding. I even chucked it in the balancer and it was only .5 grams off.... the stock plate was about 1.5 grams off.
 
Then just bring it to a machine shop, i didnt do it like most people and use only the center, i actually only machined off at the lip right after the converter bolt holes then bolted everything together, no welding. I even chucked it in the balancer and it was only .5 grams off.... the stock plate was about 1.5 grams off.
How does that work without creating clearance issues?
 
Then just bring it to a machine shop, i didnt do it like most people and use only the center, i actually only machined off at the lip right after the converter bolt holes then bolted everything together, no welding. I even chucked it in the balancer and it was only .5 grams off.... the stock plate was about 1.5 grams off.

Just the center section or did you just have the ring removed?

Also, about how much did it run you if you don't mind me askin?
 
So if it pushes on the pump, what does a competent shop do to remedy the problem?
I was told by the convertor company to notch the pump drive deeper for clearance, but I opted to make a 1/8" spacer plate and longer dowels to move the trans so no alterations would be needed.
 
Just the center section or did you just have the ring removed?

Also, about how much did it run you if you don't mind me askin?

I wish i had pics, i machined off the outer part what 'bowls' out... kinda hard to explain... just enough to be able to fit it into the original flex plate, so that way i have double thickness even at the converter bolts.
 
I was told by the convertor company to notch the pump drive deeper for clearance, but I opted to make a 1/8" spacer plate and longer dowels to move the trans so no alterations would be needed.

thats what i did after screwing up my pump:doh:. but i made mine out of 188. to get enough clearance
 

Attachments

  • spacer.jpg
    spacer.jpg
    26.6 KB · Views: 31
So if it pushes on the pump, what does a competent shop do to remedy the problem?

Likely nothing that can't be done at home.

I was told by the convertor company to notch the pump drive deeper for clearance, but I opted to make a 1/8" spacer plate and longer dowels to move the trans so no alterations would be needed.

I doubt that many places would go that route.

There are countless race cars out there with aftermarket converters using washers or spacer plates to get the desired clearance. This is nothing that can't be accomplished in someone's garage.

Keep in mind that converters "grow" which is why there is a need for room to expand. Balloon plates help control that expansion, as does furnace brazing and machined turbine covers.
 
Back
Top