lml rods for long block build ?

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llyproject

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May 12, 2014
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I am looking for anyones opinion here who has had exsperience or know someone who has. I am working on my first build and need to make some sacrafices somewhere as i do not have the $ to do everything i want. My goal is 700hp and 11sec passes. I want to know if lml rods would be an "okay" substitue for this kind of power i will only be running danvilles new 3794 stage 2 with batmo, duel fuelers, push rods, arp studs, and cut lb7 pistons. My plan is to port and clean up heads key the crank and possibly socal cam not sure if i will have the $ but everything else motor wise will remain as is including injectors and valve springs as those are a little easier to mess with in the future if need be. Rest of mods are in the sig for the most part
 
LML rods are not the same as the previous years. It takes a little machine to make them fit an lb7 piston/crankshaft. Aaaand they have not been abused near long enough for someone to say they will be the slightest bit reliable at 700hp. Bottom line is, if you have a duramax and want to play with more than 600hp, fork out the bucks for something proven.
 
I figured that was going to be the response, but like you said they havent been around long so i havnt heard of anyone to try it either. I just know that they have held a good amont in the lmls. I appreciate the response though
 
There's several guys running the LML rods with lb7 pistons, etc. and they are making over 700hp on them. That said I know just as many guys who have been running lb7 and LLY rods at 700+ hp for several years and many 1/4 mile passes. People also smash the **** out of them through the block everyday so it's your call.

I'm running a 100% stock lb7 motor at 600rwhp and have been or a couple years. I opted for a large single instead of twins to save my rods and I also made sure my tunes were conservative in the low rpm power area.

If you want to try a stock rod, go with LBZ rods on your de lipped lb7 pistons and tell your tuner you want the truck to make as close to 600hp and 1100ft lbs of torque as possible and tell them to keep the torque high in the rpm range. Any reputable tuner that knows a duramax, knows how to keep a stock connecting rod somewhat happy.

If you want to have fun with 700+hp and do rolling burnouts and all that cool ****, dish out the pile of cash for something that was engineered to take the abuse.
 
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I guess that will be the plan then, just going to wait and do it right my shop has a set of lml rods and pistons for 200$ they only have 34k on them that is the only reason i even considered after reading the breaking point article. And yes i have a buddy who just made 713hp on a single s366 with lb7, duel fuelers and 30% overs all he has are studs rest is 100% stock but the truck is a freak the day he got his trans built he ran a 12.88 on stock fuel stock turbo in a ccsb at full weight.
 
Take everything you learned from that H&S showboat about a diesel motor and eliminate it from your brain lol

Paying for a set of good rods will be worth it as soon as you destroy a piston against the crankshaft then ruin a block and crank because you wanted to save money and have fun at the same time with stock rods.
 
llyproject said:
I am looking for anyones opinion here who has had exsperience or know someone who has. I am working on my first build and need to make some sacrafices somewhere as i do not have the $ to do everything i want. My goal is 700hp and 11sec passes. I want to know if lml rods would be an "okay" substitue for this kind of power i will only be running danvilles new 3794 stage 2 with batmo, duel fuelers, push rods, arp studs, and cut lb7 pistons. My plan is to port and clean up heads key the crank and possibly socal cam not sure if i will have the $ but everything else motor wise will remain as is including injectors and valve springs as those are a little easier to mess with in the future if need be. Rest of mods are in the sig for the most part
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a) buy a different turbo

b) dont really need push rods, but will need springs

c) no need for the cam for 700hp

d) no need for port work for 700hp if short on $$

IMO, save your money for another year, then buy good rods and larger injectors, as you will need both. Don't bother with the build until you can do it right the first time.

700hp on a stock-low end LB7 = BOOM
 
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Why a different turbo ?and thanks for the advice its my first time tackling this big of a project and i have a 1000 things i want, but can only do so much with new house and baby . I really appreciate the input though. Im a little overwhelmed at this point with all these parts laying here and making sure i do it right. i know i wont be the fastest but i would certainly like to try but be able to do it mostly myself
 
And push rods were given to me along with some other little stuff for a set of stock wheels i had
 
llyproject said:
I guess that will be the plan then, just going to wait and do it right my shop has a set of lml rods and pistons for 200$ they only have 34k on them that is the only reason i even considered after reading the breaking point article. And yes i have a buddy who just made 713hp on a single s366 with lb7, duel fuelers and 30% overs all he has are studs rest is 100% stock but the truck is a freak the day he got his trans built he ran a 12.88 on stock fuel stock turbo in a ccsb at full weight.
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Plenty of guys have gone 12.88 on stock air and fueling with an lb7, LLY, LBZ and LMM. Hell there's a damn van that ran a high 10 on a stock bottom end dmax.

And if that 713hp was made on a chassis dyno then go ahead and throw that number out the window as not a single person on this board appreciates a number that was obtained from a chassis dyno. If that hp number was obtained by using vehicle weight, 1/4 mile trap speed and math...then people here will believe you
 
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