biggy238
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Looking for recommendations on what to do with hurt cylinder
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thatguy69
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thatguy69
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Hadn't a clue, having a hard time nailing down a manual
thatguy69
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Yeah I noticed that as well. 6 tested good on compression and blowby. Valve seals were new 17k ago, assuming it would have to be worn valve guides?
Powerstroke Cowboy
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Looks like that's where your oil was going.
When I hand hone with a ball hone, I go 180 or 240 depending on how bad the cylinders are. I only spend enough time in the cylinder to get the glazing off as well as scratches. It has always worked for me. I to shoot for a 45 degree cross hatch. Thats is determined by drill speed and speed up and down the bore. Always remove the hone with the drill spinning and still the same rate up and down.
Most places say 400rpm. I generally go a lot faster, but you have to run the hone up and down faster as well.
When I hand hone with a ball hone, I go 180 or 240 depending on how bad the cylinders are. I only spend enough time in the cylinder to get the glazing off as well as scratches. It has always worked for me. I to shoot for a 45 degree cross hatch. Thats is determined by drill speed and speed up and down the bore. Always remove the hone with the drill spinning and still the same rate up and down.
Most places say 400rpm. I generally go a lot faster, but you have to run the hone up and down faster as well.
Red Sleeper
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Getting too technical on the honing aspect. Even an old 3 stone will work. You're just removing the glazing and giving the rings a fresh surface to seat against.
Use plenty of oil, 30*-45* cross hatch is ideal. Dial bore gauge is a good tool to have for checking for cylinder being out of round. Being an inline engine, likely they are fine. V8 engines seem to egg a bore.
You've gone well beyond the shade tree repair at this point. I'm sure Jeff will chime in today. He will have all the parts and pieces you need. Probably even a manual.
Use plenty of oil, 30*-45* cross hatch is ideal. Dial bore gauge is a good tool to have for checking for cylinder being out of round. Being an inline engine, likely they are fine. V8 engines seem to egg a bore.
You've gone well beyond the shade tree repair at this point. I'm sure Jeff will chime in today. He will have all the parts and pieces you need. Probably even a manual.
1320Cummins
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thatguy69
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Thanks for the info, does it happen to have the min/max spec for the bores?
I'd remove the rings, and set the piston your gonna run along with a feeler Guage that fits the bore snug, to see where your at.
What causes the skuffs on the bores, and damages pistons, sticks rings, is when these stock motors are turned up and ran harder. The piston expands and grabs the cylinder, or stock ring gap is to tight.
Loosen up the ptc clearance .002 to .003 over stock, gap the new rings on the loose side of called for speck, and it will live a happy life.
Red Sleeper
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I don't think he's going to open up the entire cylinder .002"-.003" with a drill and hone. Much less 6 cylinders. Honing machines usually take a cylinder to the next .001" in size. Removing .002"-.003" would take some time on a honing machine.
thatguy69
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Thanks for all the feedback and info guys, I've been slammed lately but should be able to get back at this thing in the next few days. I picked up a 4-5" mic so I know more of what I have. I get this is taking things way past shade tree, and I'm not throwing the checkbook at this thing to rebuild it right which is totally against how I operate but it's just not logical for me right now. I'm going to measure my bores/pistons and see where I'm at, this is more about learning for me right now. Im also gonna pressure check the head
Red Sleeper
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No harm in your method of repair. Better to take the time for a proper repair than do it again. A proper repair can be only replacing what is broke, not going all in.
My cousin has a 12v that has been consuming ~1 quart of oil at every fuel fill up. It started when the water pump failed and someone kept driving, overheated the engine, popped the head gasket. Water pump and head gasket replaced, nothing further. Last time I saw the truck, there was a nice 1/4" thick coat of oil/soot build up inside the tail pipe. You could scrape it off with a screwdriver. I'm betting #6 is toasted. Hopefully I can buy the truck one day and have a 98 12v in the fleet.
My cousin has a 12v that has been consuming ~1 quart of oil at every fuel fill up. It started when the water pump failed and someone kept driving, overheated the engine, popped the head gasket. Water pump and head gasket replaced, nothing further. Last time I saw the truck, there was a nice 1/4" thick coat of oil/soot build up inside the tail pipe. You could scrape it off with a screwdriver. I'm betting #6 is toasted. Hopefully I can buy the truck one day and have a 98 12v in the fleet.
thatguy69
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With the bore gauge all 6 cylinders checkout on average 4.0160-4.0170. Min spec is 4.0155 max spec is 4.0185. None of the cylinders were out of round and taper was also good.
Pistons I measured on the skirt which I'm not sure is correct. Average piston measurement was 4.0100
Pistons I measured on the skirt which I'm not sure is correct. Average piston measurement was 4.0100