looking for some opinions on my build

bogger

bogger

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Mar 22, 2010
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ok guys here's whats going down i'm planning on doing a build on my 97 over the next few years for the "street diesel" sled pulling class up here which is basically a 2.6 class. Josh Land at Bluegrass Diesel has given me a list of parts minus a charger. I'm not looking for vendors to sell me stuff cuz I will be buying everything thru Bluegrass but I just wanna hear what you all think of this blueprint and what will work.

Here are a list of mods that I am thinking so far.
Southbend 3850 DD Clutch
Upgraded Hydraulics
Upgraded Input shaft
Full Cut delievery valves
5,000 RPM governor spring kit
A set of 5x.018 injectors with a SAC nozzle
Tork Tek competition overflow valve
Either a FASS or AirDog fuel system
ARP 2000 head studs and preferably an o-ringed head
Definitely a set of upgraded valve springs, retainers, and locks
Set injection pump timing to around 30*
Steed Speed exhaust manifold
max out and flow the 215 pump

- thinking the charger should be s400 for the obvious durability but not sure on the specs.
-down the road upgrades will include a hamilton cam and intercooler

I guess if I was aiming for a hp range it would be at a minimum of 650 and really no higher than 800
 
You want around 800 for the 2.6 class and 5k rpm down the track will not happen on the stock camshaft.
 
Last edited:
LReiff said:
You want around 800 for the 2.6 class and 5k rpm down the track will not happen on the stock camshaft.
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i guess i should've better clarified our 2.6 class is basically our street truck class. the most powerful truck in our class is around the 800-850 ball park. dual cp3's arent allowed along with nos, propane, and water/meth. other than that its pretty much wide open, but my build will be budget minded as I'm not overly loaded hence the multi year build haha
 
bogger said:
i guess i should've better clarified our 2.6 class is basically our street truck class. the most powerful truck in our class is around the 800-850 ball park. dual cp3's arent allowed along with nos, propane, and water/meth. other than that its pretty much wide open, but my build will be budget minded as I'm not overly loaded hence the multi year build haha
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If you're going budget why not cut some of the other build areas? Shim the gov spring and just retorque the stock head bolts until you've got a reason to replace them. if you're going budget, why mess with what hasn't broken yet. save the cash and put it towards a camshaft, or a good turbo.

there are a lot of used parts floating around out there that you could get a good deal on and stretch your budget a lot farther. i seem to remember a few really hot 2.6 class chargers in the for sale area for a song and a dance...

5K is a lot to spin a relatively stock engine, which is what you'd have at that point.

just my .02
 
Thank u that's all great info. So you're thinking maybe I should go with a 4k as opposed to the 5k? I apologize for not being great with detail but when I say budget I just mean I'm not planning on doing massive head work or pistons etc. Nothing severely internal
 
bogger said:
Thank u that's all great info. So you're thinking maybe I should go with a 4k as opposed to the 5k? I apologize for not being great with detail but when I say budget I just mean I'm not planning on doing massive head work or pistons etc. Nothing severely internal
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i'm saying budget can mean a lot of different things to differet people. if you just shim your stock spring it will cause the spring to act stiffer, but may prevent full travel (it might not shut it off at all...)

But of all the mods you talked about, a GSK isn't all that pricey either, and your're going to have your pump apart anyways...
 
"Street diesel":haha:

Careful on the Southbend. Unless it is a competition clutch, it might not hold. Schrowang on here busted one.
 
Yeah I know our rules up here in Maine are a joke so go easy on me lol. Our hitch height is 20 inches and no hanging weight if that tells u anything
 
I agree with on vacation, look for some used parts on here. You'll save a ton of money and probably get some good advise on the parts your getting. Like what they were used with and how they performed. Just my .02$
 
OnVacation said:
Competition Cummins parts - Page 3 - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

either run the 2.6 as is, or get the lightning bushed down to 2.6. I want to run the lightning bad, but I want a truck that I can still daily drive and tow with, so the twins are going back in.

Either of those would be good chargers, with good parts, and should make some serious horsepower. again, just my .02, but they'd fit in your class
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Hey thanks for the heads up bud
 
bogger where can i find the rules for pro stock diesel? a buddy and me wanted to go down and try our rigs out against carl and jeff, but have a hard time finding the actual printed rules. I may even be legal for street class. btw i run a 3850 sbdd iron clutch behind my 6.7 and it stands up great to pulling, just have the iron discs.
 
Ben46a said:
bogger where can i find the rules for pro stock diesel? a buddy and me wanted to go down and try our rigs out against carl and jeff, but have a hard time finding the actual printed rules. I may even be legal for street class. btw i run a 3850 sbdd iron clutch behind my 6.7 and it stands up great to pulling, just have the iron discs.
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i'm looking at your sig and as long as you have a 2.6 turbo you'd be legal to run street class. the pro stock class is 3.0, dual fuelers, water/meth, 26 hitch, 8000lbs, front hanging weight, 35 in tires, guilletine, drive shaft loops, exhaust must exit straight up, and gotta wear a helmet. thats it bud
 
bogger said:
ok guys here's whats going down i'm planning on doing a build on my 97 over the next few years for the "street diesel" sled pulling class up here which is basically a 2.6 class. Josh land at bluegrass diesel has given me a list of parts minus a charger. I'm not looking for vendors to sell me stuff cuz i will be buying everything thru bluegrass but i just wanna hear what you all think of this blueprint and what will work.

Here are a list of mods that i am thinking so far.
valair triple disk clutch
upgraded hydraulics
upgraded input shaft
full cut delievery valves
5,000 rpm governor spring kit
a set of 5x.018 injectors with a sac nozzle
tork tek competition overflow valve
either a fass or airdog fuel system
arp 2000 head studs and preferably an o-ringed head
port and polished head
billet camdefinitely a set of upgraded valve springs, retainers, and locks
set injection pump timing to around 30*
steed speed exhaust manifold
max out and flow the 215 pump

- thinking the charger should be s400 for the obvious durability but not sure on the specs.
-down the road upgrades will include a hamilton cam and intercooler

i guess if i was aiming for a hp range it would be at a minimum of 650 and really no higher than 800
Click to expand...

jmo $.02
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
jmo $.02
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how difficult is it to port and polish the head? the reason i ask is because i gasket matched a set of heads on a chevy 350 i had back in college and it was pretty easy.. just time consuming with the dremel but it was cheap and kinda fun
 
The intake needs to disappear to do it right, but you can do some clean up on your own with a dremel. Imo, just o-ring it from the get-go, its reasonably cheap and it might save you from having to drop out of an event with a popped hg. Id also drop the tork tek and just use an adjustable regulator on the return.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
 
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