May need a new lift pump: Should I stay OEM or go aftermarket?

Just throwing this out there, but does your key have the door opener on it? Just asking because buddy of mine tried starting his truck with his door key and not the ignition key. Would crank but wouldn't start. But his truck is an 06. Didn't know if the battery being dead in the remote causing this problem.
 
cerickson said:
Just throwing this out there, but does your key have the door opener on it? Just asking because buddy of mine tried starting his truck with his door key and not the ignition key. Would crank but wouldn't start. But his truck is an 06. Didn't know if the battery being dead in the remote causing this problem.
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I have a door lock/unlock fob, but it is not part of the key itself if that's what you mean.
 
Yeah, wasn't for sure what years dodge put the unlocker remote on the key it self. Heard people say before that if the battery is dead in the remote the truck won't start. Just thought I would throw that out there. But it does sound like it mite be an injector problem.
 
Sooo.... I got home earlier than usual today, figured i would check a few things out. I definitely have an external pump on the filter housing. I turned the key on to see if it was getting power. It kicked on when i turned the key on, but it changed pitch a few times throughout its cycle. So much so, that right before it cycled off, i thought the LP was going to stall out. It finished its cycle anyhow, so i figured i would try starting it for $hitz and grins. cranked it over and it fired right up... I let it idle for about 25 minutes while i shoveled snow. i wanted to take it down the road and see what would happen. I backed out on the road and took off. The roads are snow packed, so they are pretty slick. I eased into the throttle, to the point where it would DEF spin the tires on the snow, but they didnt spin and it seemed very sluggish. it wasn't chugging or missing, it just lacked normal power. made it to the stop sign a quarter of a mile down the road. I went to take off from the stop sign and it stalled. I cycled the key and it started back up, only to stall before i could get it into gear. I did this several times. Stuck in the middle of the road (back country road, no concern) i made the walk of shame back to the house. Then made the call of shame to my brother in law to tow me back to my house. It seems that the LP is either terribly weak, and cant keep up with demand, or the LP is running, but not moving any fuel but the CP3 is pulling fuel anyhow. I will follow through with actual troubleshooting later this weekend, just figured i'd update this.
 
can always do a fuel pressure test. If i remeber right it has to hold 8-10psi. thats what i would do or just keep beating around the bush.
 
ALLLLLSOOOOO - check the torque on your connector tube hold-down nuts.
 
RDPsmoker said:
can always do a fuel pressure test. If i remeber right it has to hold 8-10psi. thats what i would do or just keep beating around the bush.
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I will do a fuel flow test, i wasn't going to dig into it today, its only in the teens. i tried starting it and drove it because it was simple and quick to try.
 
This weekend I worked on my truck since it warmed up. LP would not cycle on, pulled the connector and tested for voltage. Got 12v when i bumped the starter, but it dropped down to 7.3 after about 20 seconds or so, which is the normal cycle time of the lp when i turn me key to the on position but don't start my truck. I'm not sure if there's ever supposed to be 7 volts to the lp, or if it's only supposed to be 12v or nothing? I called a few Dodge dealers, but no one could answer my question. That being said, i pulled the lp and put 12v directly to it via drill battery. It was toast. I smacked on it with a wrench a couple times and got it to kick on, but smelled terribly burnt. I ordered a new lp from geno's, I'm wondering if there's not supposed to be 7v to the lp if it is going to burn it up... The only way it would make sense to get 7 volts ever, would be if it were a 2 speed or variable speed motor, but not sure if it is?
 
maybe showing low voltage because of your grid heater kicking on for its cycle.
 
another thing to comment on

RPM hang.. as forrest stated, is normal.. but if the RPMS hang for a lot more than a 1/2 second or so, it could be an injector holding stuck open longer than it should...
 
do you have a mechanical gauge to monitor fuel pressure? that would be my first option when finding a fuel related issue
 
I have now had my FASS 150 HD (discontinued) for 6 years and the relay was the only issue I ever had which is not even related IMO
 
Air Dog II

HillbillyD-Luxx said:
Truck quit on me the other day in the driveway, when I put it in park it just shut down like i turned the key off. I cycled the key and tried starting it again. It cranked for 2 or 3 times longer than usual before starting, but it did start. It ran for about 3 seconds then shut off again. I tried restarting it again, but it would not fire, it just cranked and cranked. It doesn't smoke while cranking. I got out my programmer and put power settings back to stock to see if it was a programmer malfunction, but nothing changed, just cranked over but wouldn't fire. I am suspecting lift pump, but will obviously trouble shoot before buying an expensive lift pump on a hunch. My question to you guys is: If it is indeed the lift pump, should i stay stock or go aftermarket? Is it price comparative? Is there a distinct advantage going with aftermarket? What aftermarket would you recommend? I don't do anything crazy, so i'm not worried about starving the injection pump, so stock output is fine with for, fwiw. Thanks in advance!

Truck is a 2003 QCSB for the record with a BDTD Power Pup, version 2.3.1 always ran on tow mode.
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I just installed the airdog II 165 and it makes a world of difference, removes water, great filter, your injectors will thanks you for the clean fuel. you can hear it running, but its not to bad.. install took about 3 hours on garage floor with no lift...
 
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