My ARP Stud Failed!!

LAmiller

LAmiller

THE KT-BOUNDARY
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Aug 17, 2006
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Well, this afternoon sucked! finally got my trans flush complete and went out on a test drive... was on my way back to the shop when my water temp gauge went to 240*, so I turned the truck off and pulled off only to hear a lot of gargling noises coming from under the hood.

I started looking and found the top of one of my ARP studs in the engine compartment. The bottom threads are broken off inside the block!! Called ARP and they said send it in and if they don't find corrosion then they will replace it.

O well, off comes the head and the wallet suffers again!!

Broken_ARP_Stud.jpg


Lavon
 
It looks like half broke a while back and then half broke tonight. The metal has swirl marks in it and it looks like it broke on the lower part of where the swirl was located.
 
Sorry about your luck Lavone. :doh: I know what it feels like to have a string of bad luck.
 
Not cool, did it ruin your HG, and have you tried to get it out with an easyout?
 
I could possibly remove the stud without removing the head but It blew the Head Gasket so its gotta come off anyway.

Hey Joel, where did you take your head to fix your valves?

Lavon
 
You can use a stick welder to tack a rod to the remaining piece of stud. Then slowly try and twist the piece out with the welding rod.

ARP studs break more than they should when compared to the stock bolts. The old quench and tempered steel in the stock bolts seems to never break, but the ARP2000 seems to fail way too often. I dont know if it is quality control or what is going on.
 
Soup Nazi said:
You can use a stick welder to tack a rod to the remaining piece of stud. Then slowly try and twist the piece out with the welding rod.

ARP studs break more than they should when compared to the stock bolts. The old quench and tempered steel in the stock bolts seems to never break, but the ARP2000 seems to fail way too often. I dont know if it is quality control or what is going on.
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Goody...makes me feel all warm and toasty about dropping $3K on a ported head with ARP studs!

Blown hg's are becoming more common in Ohio...hope it's not a trend!
Chris
 
Double J said:
What do you need done?
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I need it decked, retainers and a professional opinion on whats causing the ticking noise in my valvetrain.

DieselTweaker - Thanks! I'll check w/ Brandon

Also It appears like the Stud was cracked for a while, which i would assume released pressure causing head gasket to seep, because half of the break has corrosion. Well called ARP again and explained my theory and they told me if there is ANY corrosion on the stud then it is a waste of my time to try to get them to replace it!?! I was like whatever, and can just assume that there warranty on there products is about as good as another transmission shop up north that I dealt with recently.


Lavon
 
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I have talked to more than one that broke just torquing to 125 ftlbs!
 
Signature600 said:
Goody...makes me feel all warm and toasty about dropping $3K on a ported head with ARP studs!

Blown hg's are becoming more common in Ohio...hope it's not a trend!
Chris
Click to expand...

What torque procedure do you Ohio boys go with when sealin a new o-ringed head? I think multiple retorques are a must with O-rings with in the first month of lots of heat cycles.
 
When first installed i torqued down 75 - 90 - 105 - 122. then ran the truck easy with no boost for 3 complete heat cycles then did a re-torque. and ran about 2mo. then did another re-torque and they didn't move at all. ran it like that for about 1yr. then re-torqued again and its been about 6mo. since my last re-torque.

I don't think it would have blown except for the failed stud

Lavon
 
I'm planning on doing about the same procedure. Take it easy torquing, get a few heat cycles on it, retorque, then run a couple weeks, retorque, then finally go full power! I'll be unhooking the AFC on my pump when I put it all back together until I make sure the head is tied down!


Chris
 
LAmiller said:
When first installed i torqued down 75 - 90 - 105 - 122. then ran the truck easy with no boost for 3 complete heat cycles then did a re-torque. and ran about 2mo. then did another re-torque and they didn't move at all. ran it like that for about 1yr. then re-torqued again and its been about 6mo. since my last re-torque.

I don't think it would have blown except for the failed stud

Lavon
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Yeah prob would been fine if not have broke. I do mine 50, 70, 90, 110. With lots of ARP lube. Put overhead back together, start up let it get to operating temp at idle. Then let it cool for a while then take em all to 122. Dirve around some keeping it under 10#s for a few heat cycles. (Like a week of daily driving) then break each one loose one at a time reapply ARP lube and torque again to 122lb. Then again in like a month or 2
 
that sounds right. You definitely want to re-torque when everything is hot though. One of the guys thought that it would just make sense to re-torque it cold so he tried the original torque procedure then ran it through 5 heat cycles and let it sit for a day then retorqued to 122 cold.

I didn't like the idea so we drove it till everything was good and hot, came back to the shop and put the torque wrench on it and they all moved another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. So its definitely better to torque when everythings hot!

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
that sounds right. You definitely want to re-torque when everything is hot though. One of the guys thought that it would just make sense to re-torque it cold so he tried the original torque procedure then ran it through 5 heat cycles and let it sit for a day then retorqued to 122 cold.

I didn't like the idea so we drove it till everything was good and hot, came back to the shop and put the torque wrench on it and they all moved another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. So its definitely better to torque when everythings hot!

Lavon
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I tried when mine was fresh hot once and I had coolant come up through the stud i cracked loose that was close to a passage and guess there was alot of pressure so i usually wait a lil while after its hot.
 
Soup Nazi said:
ARP studs break more than they should when compared to the stock bolts. The old quench and tempered steel in the stock bolts seems to never break, but the ARP2000 seems to fail way too often. I dont know if it is quality control or what is going on.
Click to expand...

That’s kind of a broad and unsubstantiated statement.
I will venture to say ARP is the preferred manufactory of 90% all high quality fasteners in the performance industry. I distribute a majority of these to the diesel market, and have only heard of one stud breaking and this was more then likely caused by a torque wrench being dropped on the last few pulls in the final series of a torque sequence after it fell off the fender of the customer’s truck. . In any case ARP responded swiftly, replacing the entire set and sending the broken stud out to be independently tested. The result was a yield caused by exciding the torque spec of the fastener. ARP takes very seriously the quality control of the fasteners they produce. I have consulted Chris Raschke at ARP and if this stud is in actuality a failed part, he wants the part back to send out to a independent test facility. This set of studs in any case will be replace by ARP at no cost, no mater the result.

PM me for Chris contact info and for your info to send you a set of studs
 
Well I got the head off and the broken piece out. Getting the piece out of the block proved quite a challenge but with enough persistence and the ingenious ideas that Brandon had we got it out! So Im off to buying parts to get this thing back together!

A big thanks to Greg(COMP461) for calling Chris @ ARP and doing your part in getting me a new set of studs!

Lavon
 
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