My ARP Stud Failed!!

ctd8999 said:
Last time I saw your engine it was on an engine stand. Did you even fire your engine up yet ??
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:poke: Could you possibly explain what my having New Age 625 Fasteners or my engine being on an engine stand has to do with a broken headstud thread?:bang

For the record, I am taking my sweet azz time on my builds:shake: , I have other vehicles to drive anyhow -so what's my rush? None. :evil I can hop into one of my old Mopars, or jump into my Vipertruck and get where I need to go.:thankyou2: Plus I am building multiple engines for my race program and have time to leisurely build up a bullet for my duallie, I could have very well dropped in a stocker back in but that is not my style. This build will scratch at the 1K mark assisted with*nx* When it's done it's done. :rockwoot:

I am proud to use the finest fasteners ARP has to offer on ALL my engine buildups. I wouldn't subject myself to anything less.:clap:

Thanks for your concern.:pop:
 
Forrest Nearing said:
two things...


2. torque values are for a cold engine. if you're torquing at 122 hot, you're not getting as much clamping force as you would at 122 cold.
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I would also think so, but Haisley tells you to retorque hot when you do there firering setup to 120ftlbs:pop:
 
Forrest Nearing said:
two things...

1. I've seen a broken stock head bolt... broke shortly after a re-torque

2. torque values are for a cold engine. if you're torquing at 122 hot, you're not getting as much clamping force as you would at 122 cold.
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I've done it both ways. The hot/warm 122ft/lb re-torques always result in the nut turning further past the mark than when they were 122ft/lb cold.
 
Snapped Head Bolts

Question, Why are you guys re-torquing your head bolts so much? I think that might be part of the problem. If it's not broke don't fix it. Once the head is down and been through a couple of heat cycles do a final torquing and leave it alone.

My old 12 valve sees 50 psi on occasion with an O-ringed head and factory bolts no problems (knock on wood) for the last 80K.

Ok I'm sure I have ruffled some feathers, therefore I have dawned my flame suit:shake:
 
RacinDuallie said:
:poke: . This build will scratch at the 1K mark assisted with*nx* When it's done it's done. :rockwoot:


More HP than me but not really that great of a number for twins, P- Pump and nitros. Just couldn't understand how you just love your new studs, there probably still in the box. Well I hope you get your almost done racer out of the shop, been getting out since March right ?? Have you ever raced before ?? Stay cool racin daul.
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97Rebel said:
Question, Why are you guys re-torquing your head bolts so much? I think that might be part of the problem. If it's not broke don't fix it. Once the head is down and been through a couple of heat cycles do a final torquing and leave it alone.

My old 12 valve sees 50 psi on occasion with an O-ringed head and factory bolts no problems (knock on wood) for the last 80K.

Ok I'm sure I have ruffled some feathers, therefore I have dawned my flame suit:shake:
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You just might be lucky, it takes more retorques to seat o-rings good
 
ctd8999 said:
RacinDuallie said:
:poke: . This build will scratch at the 1K mark assisted with*nx* When it's done it's done. :rockwoot:


More HP than me but not really that great of a number for twins, P- Pump and nitros. Just couldn't understand how you just love your new studs, there probably still in the box. Well I hope you get your almost done racer out of the shop, been getting out since March right ?? Have you ever raced before ?? Stay cool racin daul.
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Let's keep the thread on track please. I won't subject myself to scanning timeslips from Island Drag Way or Raceway Park.....:thankyou2:
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Chris from ARP just called me 10min. ago and was asking me more details about the failure etc. I'm sending them the failed studs and they will do lots of testing to try to determine what caused the failure, but I can say since COMP461 aka Greg put me in contact with Chris... I have had nothing but outstanding service from the company!

He informed me that he will send me new instructions on torquing a down my head with the new ARP's to seat my O-rings as he said they have come up with a new procedure. So I will keep you posted on what they send me....


Lavon
 
COMP461 said:
That’s kind of a broad and unsubstantiated statement.
I will venture to say ARP is the preferred manufactory of 90% all high quality fasteners in the performance industry. I distribute a majority of these to the diesel market, and have only heard of one stud breaking and this was more then likely caused by a torque wrench being dropped on the last few pulls in the final series of a torque sequence after it fell off the fender of the customer’s truck. . In any case ARP responded swiftly, replacing the entire set and sending the broken stud out to be independently tested. The result was a yield caused by exciding the torque spec of the fastener. ARP takes very seriously the quality control of the fasteners they produce. I have consulted Chris Raschke at ARP and if this stud is in actuality a failed part, he wants the part back to send out to a independent test facility. This set of studs in any case will be replace by ARP at no cost, no mater the result.

PM me for Chris contact info and for your info to send you a set of studs
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exciding????????........................Googling:hehe:
 
I know this is an oldy but i had the same thing happen to me, what is the easiest way to get the stud out.
 
He informed me that he will send me new instructions on torquing a down my head with the new ARP's to seat my O-rings as he said they have come up with a new procedure. So I will keep you posted on what they send me....
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What ever came of this?
 
Depends on how far the stud is broken inside. I'm sure Lavon will see this post and give the correct welding rod, etc. His is still going strong on the replacements studs that Greg sent. I'd guess it's been 40,000mi since they were replaced.
 
Soup Nazi said:
Thats exactly the kind of thing I am talking about. Every now and then, an ARP stud will snap. One of the ones I have here snapped at 100 ft lbs. In the early days of Cummins ARP studs we tested them to extreme levels and found them better than expected. Soon thereafter, the intermittent breakage started. Just one every now and again. No real way to pin down what was wrong other than quality control on the steel from the supplying mill.

On the same plane of thought though, I dont get reports of broken stock bolts from anyone. But like I said earlier, could just be the stock bolts never get the retq's and cycles the ARP's do.
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My first one snapped at 105 or so , the second one snapped at 110. The first one snapped in the block similar to Lamiller. The second was a cap failure. Cold tourqes (initial). After I let it get to operating temp and re-tourqed hot/warm the torques felt a lot smoother and consistent. After stopping at 118 I decided I'd call it good before another one broke. They have held everything I threw at it but always kept the failures in teh back of my mind.
 
Ok, just saw this thread, What we did with one stud was take the broken stud and drop it on top of the piece stuck in the block. then we but an allen driver in the 3/8" impact driver, got on top of the engine so we could get our whole body weight on it and the jagged edge of the break caught and spun the broken piece out.

The other one we weren't so lucky, What we ended up doing is taking an old pushrod and cut the ends off (hollow inside). Take the hollow tube and put it on top of the broken piece, use a stick welder (put ground on pushrod, not on engine) and stick it down the hollow pushrod, get a good hot weld on the stud. Make sure that you don't weld too long so it doesn't burn through the rod. What I did was do about 5 or 6 three second welds, 3-4 seconds apart. After that you can grab the rod with a visegrip and turn out the broken stud.

Lavon
 
Why do you all break the nuts loose on the re tourquing of the head. seams like the head would move up just slightly and would be pointless. Just asking so be gentle.
 
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