Need a TPS!

JFlagg

JFlagg

Gun for Hire
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
5,630
Autozone scanned my truck for me and got the TPS low voltage code, 0211 I think....Anyone know the cheapest place to find one? I've heard that their expensive.... :doh:
 
i would re-set the APPS first

RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR.
(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR)
2ND GENERATION 24 VALVE TRUCKS ONLY.

LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED

DIGITAL VOLT METER
# 20 TORQUE BIT SOCKET
# 1 PHILLIPS
# 10 MM SOCKET

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to ensure personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times to eliminate the personal injury or improper service, which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no liability is assumed in reliance of this material.

It has come to my attention that a lot of people think by disconnecting & re-connecting the batteries and stepping on the throttle it is going to reset the apps, no, that is not correct. It is impossible to adjust your apps if you do not know where it is supposed to be set at. That is why you need the voltmeter.

This is the procedure I use to re-set the apps.

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the apps wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (power control module) which is located off the passenger side of the firewall.

• You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine,
• You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer which is pin # 23
• Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts,
• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference.

*** TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK ***




Resetting the APPS Sensor cont. page 2
(Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)
2nd generation 24 valve trucks only.

• The apps sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.

• Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump.

The two screws that are holding it are plastic, do not put any downward pressure on them or you will never get them off.

• Un do the 6 - 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bracketry in place.
(DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES)

You will notice the apps is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2 - 20 bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them.

• On the apps you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the apps adjustment should be.

• After loosening the screws you can rotate the apps both clockwise and counter clockwise to get the adjustment you need.

• The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin # 23 should match the white tag on your apps, if not adjust accordingly.
 
Thanks!!! Didn't realize you could adjust anything, just though you replaced it....The directions will help alot to, guess the voltmeter will earn its keep tonight...
 
before you do that....pull the battery cables and let it sit with the key on for 10 min. turn the key off then,

re-connect the battery's turn the key on ( do not start) and press the throttle peddle to the floor slowly ...do that 2 times

and then do the reset in post #1

if you have any problems just let us know


Scott
 
Thanx again, I'll find out in a few hours if this works...
 
JFlagg> My throttle has been spotty for awhile and truck has low power when its cold and throws awesome white smoke, Speedo stopped working right after abs light came on. I like it, I'm driving it till it wont mve no mo.
 
Well, I want to get mine fixed. It took me 30 minutes to do the 8-10 minute drive to work this morning. Good thing this thing has so much torque, idling through 3-4 gears sucks...
 
Clutching helps mine and after it warms up it acts kina normal, hills seem to mess with it, i always get a dead throttle at the entrance to I459 bypass in Birmingham I mean everytime I get dead throttle there and i know there are hills with highr grades all before there, cant understand it. i always get dead pedal when i exit the interstate after driving 450 miles at exit 8 on I-55 its weird, really bad there then it gets normal, heat related?
 
If you wind up replacing it take your engine serial # with you to the local Cummins dealer and get it there, about $100 cheaper than the Dodge dealer.
 
Thanks, I have a feeling I'm going to need a new one. I tried the above apps reset and still nothing, runs as bad as before. Though, I did check the voltage and it was at .33 volts. I adjusted it to .530 the first time 'cuz thats as close as I could get and it still didn't fix the problem. Then I did it again making double sure I did everything right, voltage right at .521 volts this time(thats what the tag said) and nothing. The check engine light went out and no more 0211 code(low TPS voltage) but now I have P1698? Hopefully I don't need a TPS, but if I do I'll try the Cummins shop here in STL, last time they cut me the military(gov't price) since I came in on duty in uniform, though that was for some 10 dollar oil filters....So, any help out there would be appreciated....And thanks for all the help so far.
 
Mine threw those codes in reverse the other day, but it would not start for a while. I finally got it started and the codes cleared, then the P0211 code showed up. I reset the APPS with the battery cable off procedure and cleared the code, and the code never reset.
 
JFlagg said:
Well, I want to get mine fixed. It took me 30 minutes to do the 8-10 minute drive to work this morning. Good thing this thing has so much torque, idling through 3-4 gears sucks...
Click to expand...

hmmm.... Thats exactly what my truck did when my VP died @150K I bought a new TPS and nothing, changed the VP and bingo, problem solved. and no returns on the TPS!

Lavon
 
I even had the 0211 code....but it doesn't hurt to be optimistic and hope its the TPS
 
Actually, I kinda hope it is the VP. My Truck is out of warranty, but my HRVP and Fass are both still under warranty:D I may have the local shop that helps with alot of my work check it out and see if its the VP or my FASS pump...which I actually have a new one in the garage to swap with the old one. (Thanks Diesel_Dan)
 
My wife's 02' had a simliar "dead peddle" issue and it ended up being the vp, not the tps, luckily it was still under warranty. never found out what codes it showed, but it was a similar issue, step on the peddle and no go.
 
Swapped out the old Fass pump for a new one and still have the problem.(didn't think it was the problem anyway) Was an easy job, just kinda sucked doing it in the alley behind my house last night with a droplight and 25* weather....Diesel covered fingers get cold real fast.
 
I'm confused. I may swap my APPS out this weekend and started looking into this procedure. My question is why probe at the PCM when the APPS on a diesel feeds the ECM unlike a gasser? Granted I have an 02, not an 01 like the schematics I have, but they are for the most exact. Look at this.
8W-30-30.jpg

The APPS doesn't even go to the PCM. The PCM connector does show "accelerator pedal position signal" on pin 23 of C1, but I think that is in the context of a gas engine, not a diesel. The ECM controls the VP44 and is fed the APPS signal. Even if the signal goes both places, seems like we should probe pin 25 of the ECM, 18 AWG, LB/BK (light blue with black stripe) not pin 23 of C1 on the PCM and make it calibrated at the input of the fuel controlling device, not some stupid dodge box on the firewall.

Anyone agree or am I on a tangent here? :bang
 
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