Need addvice on a new drive shaft

ThunderedRod

ThunderedRod

Hot Pants
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
152
Yesterday took the truck to the track and the drive shaft let go. So now Im looking for a replacement. A guy at the track said dog house diesel sells a nice 5 inch tubed aluminum shaft with upgraded splicer u joints. But It looks like there website is down. Also found a place called drive shaft specialist. There drive shafts look exactly the same as the ones that dog house used to sell. Tomorrow ill call drive shaft specialist.
Or should I just buy a stock one? My problem was I launched way to hard and started bouncing before I could let off it snapped. Im also in the market for a set of traction bars which probably could have prevented this issue in the first place. :bang
 
I would advise against the aluminum shaft. I twisted one completely in half at the drag strip. It was on the 1st pass. It beat the hell out of the exhaust tubing but the tin shield on the fuel tank saved the tank.IMO its not worth any benefits that you would think it provides.:badidea:
 
So why did you buy a aluminum one in the first place? And now what are you running?
 
The truck came with it. 06 rcsb I replaced the 2wd tail housing to a 4wd housing with the suncoast conversion kit. I needed to lengthen the ds 8 inches. So I lengthened the aluminum shaft. Bad move on my part. I went with 4" steel. I don't remember wall thickness but more than stock.
 
What was the od and wall thickness of that aluminum shaft? I was thinking about going to a single piece aluminum for my cclb but don't want to twist it up launching an 8000lb truck

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Google drive shaft specialist. And check out there aluminum drive shafts. Id say they would be 5 times stronger then a stock lengthen aluminum one.


Sent from my fancy thinking box
 
If you stay in a bouncing suspension truck expect that and more to happen, loading and unloading like that kills driveline parts.

F6jbob, what did you lengthen 8" ? a 4" AL shaft where the one end swedges down to 3.5" or the 6" that swedges down to 4.5" ?
When you twisted this when exactly did that happen ?
Im drag racing people with a 4000 lb race car in a 5100lb trailer, breaking the tires out the toll booth
 
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look up Greensburg machine and driveline he is in pa his name is mark petros and he is a great outstanding guy. has been building pullers all over the us driveshafts for years. and awesome prices wont sell you something you don't need .
 
450rbronco said:
look up Greensburg machine and driveline he is in pa his name is mark petros and he is a great outstanding guy. has been building pullers all over the us driveshafts for years. and awesome prices wont sell you something you don't need .
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See now this is some info I can appreciate! I call him tomorrow.


Sent from my fancy thinking box
 
they sell someone elses, just see your local driveline shop right in your neighborhood
 
Supershafts said:
they sell someone elses, just see your local driveline shop right in your neighborhood
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This.

I don't know why everyone thinks their truck is special that a normal local driveshaft shop cant do it. Just tell them what you do with the truck and they will know more about it then you will. Its their job.
 
f6jbob said:
The truck came with it. 06 rcsb I replaced the 2wd tail housing to a 4wd housing with the suncoast conversion kit. I needed to lengthen the ds 8 inches. So I lengthened the aluminum shaft. Bad move on my part. I went with 4" steel. I don't remember wall thickness but more than stock.
Click to expand...

Supershafts said:
If you stay in a bouncing suspension truck expect that and more to happen, loading and unloading like that kills driveline parts.

F6jbob, what did you lengthen 8" ? a 4" AL shaft where the one end swedges down to 3.5" or the 6" that swedges down to 4.5" ?
When you twisted this when exactly did that happen ?
Im drag racing people with a 4000 lb race car in a 5100lb trailer, breaking the tires out the toll booth
Click to expand...

In all fairness, Jim (f6jbob) is about as hard on a driveline as anybody. Not to say that he abuses it, but he's launching with slicks in a 2wd truck. He's got his sh!t together with that truck and it flat hooks.

I used to love watching him launch his old truck and was amazed at how hard he would come out of the hole and not worry about driving it home (sometimes >15hrs from home). The way that truck short tracks gives him plenty of time on the big end to work his magic and boot many a racer off the ladder in the 12.0 class. His trophy shelf looks like the awards table at a national event. LOL

OP, good luck with your new parts.
 
Supershafts said:
If you stay in a bouncing suspension truck expect that and more to happen, loading and unloading like that kills driveline parts.

F6jbob, what did you lengthen 8" ? a 4" AL shaft where the one end swedges down to 3.5" or the 6" that swedges down to 4.5" ?
When you twisted this when exactly did that happen ?
Im drag racing people with a 4000 lb race car in a 5100lb trailer, breaking the tires out the toll booth
Click to expand...

I didn't actually lengthen my original shaft. I replaced the tube with a longer tube from a dodge pu. I just thought I should clarify that. I reused both ends from my shaft.
 
Amish Elegance said:
In all fairness, Jim (f6jbob) is about as hard on a driveline as anybody. Not to say that he abuses it, but he's launching with slicks in a 2wd truck. He's got his sh!t together with that truck and it flat hooks.

I used to love watching him launch his old truck and was amazed at how hard he would come out of the hole and not worry about driving it home (sometimes >15hrs from home). The way that truck short tracks gives him plenty of time on the big end to work his magic and boot many a racer off the ladder in the 12.0 class. His trophy shelf looks like the awards table at a national event. LOL

OP, good luck with your new parts.
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Dammit Amish

Now I have to wrap my head in ice to bring the swelling down. :tree:
 
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