need help installing billet timing cover

O

OnVacation

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Apr 26, 2011
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If it can gone wrong, it has...

Snapped the cam, bent the push tubes, chipped the valves, got killed by the KDP, rear main leak, blown oil seal on the turbo(s) and running hot...

When I sent the truck in for the fix for the KDP I ordered a Kenny's timing cover. pretty piece, but its still sitting in the garage. Went to pick it up, and THEN they explained why the weren't able to install the billet cover. Lot of help then, I could have explained what they needed to do...

On top of that, they set my timing at 12.5 degrees, and I'm burning up on my EGTs, getting terrible mileage, and SO short on power.

I know to install I need to have the pulley turned down two grooves and run a thinner belt. I need some help on the specifics. I can't afford the down time to pull the doghouse, and with the rear main seal puking oil, I can't afford to pay someone for this project. I get my hands dirty regularly, but this is the first truck I'm afraid to work on. The price and recent failures scare the **** out of me. can I remove the timing cover and replace it myself? I'll pay to have the pulley turned down, but is the rest of it doable by me?

Guys, I'm neck deep in this truck. Its got adjustable cam and pump gears on it, and I'll be able to solve my power/EGT problem with adjusted timing I think, but I need some serious help. Can someone out there give me a confidence booster with a step by step? I think removing my electric fans will give enough space to pull the pulley. I haven't found a good Cummins manual yet, but I'm searching for one to ease the pain. Also know of a local supposed Guru, just haven't been able to make contact with him thus far... (Lance, if you're out there, I called and left voice mails...)

Thanks for your help guys.

(and gals)
 
duck_04 said:
where are you located?
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Just outside Fort Drum, NY

bought the truck from the PO when I got back from Afghanistan. Tuns out he had secured the KDP one of those fold-up style lock washers that he left flat, and hadn't used loctite. I kinda feel had, but at the same time its got great parts in it. the parts in the engine are great, I just need to get it running straight so I can enjoy it without leaving an oil slick wherever I park, or puking blue smoke from a bad turbo... (installed oil return higher than oil feed, I'll fix it somewhere down the road...)
 
Who the phuck built the truck, Hellen Keller?

FWIW once the tranny is out, rear main seal is easy peezy. Use two small sheet metal screws to oull it out, then drive the new one home. Just be careful not to hit the crank.

Get the drain down NOW. Let me reiterate......GET IT DOWN YESTERDAY. If the bearings aren't smoked, they will be in short order. This isn't one of those "well, I'll get to it later" things, you're either going to have a turbo grenade or an engine grenade from run away.
 
TheBigNasty said:
Who the phuck built the truck, Hellen Keller?
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Yes, I believe that was the name...

TheBigNasty said:
FWIW once the tranny is out, rear main seal is easy peezy. Use two small sheet metal screws to oull it out, then drive the new one home. Just be careful not to hit the crank.

Get the drain down NOW. Let me reiterate......GET IT DOWN YESTERDAY. If the bearings aren't smoked, they will be in short order. This isn't one of those "well, I'll get to it later" things, you're either going to have a turbo grenade or an engine grenade from run away.
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Its not the process of installing the main seal that scares me, its that I don't really have any method at my disposal right now to pull the t-case and tranny. that nv5600 isn't a light piece.

I've already contacted a vendor. its not that I'm putting it off, its that I'm friggin out of money to fix this thing for the moment. Hopefully I can get the front end back on my bronco by this weekend, and start pulling parts.
 
Rent a tranny jack? I've done mine plenty times this way in my gravel driveway, using a couple pieces of plywood as the "shop floor".

I was just trying to get the point across that ever time you crank that truck with the turbo the way it is, you're probability of a run away goes up. From your first post, it looks as though you're one of those people that let's things slide and ends up doing way more damage than necessary. I know, I'm one of them. LOL
 
I wouldn't say I let things get out of hand. I bought it in march, and I've had to dump over 10G in repairs into it since then. I'm averaging around 2 grand a month in repairs. I'll look into sending the turbos off for a rebuild, hopefully by the time I get them back I'll have the rear main wrapped up...


I'll buy beer for anyone who wants to help!
 
OnVacation said:
I wouldn't say I let things get out of hand. I bought it in march, and I've had to dump over 10G in repairs into it since then. I'm averaging around 2 grand a month in repairs. I'll look into sending the turbos off for a rebuild, hopefully by the time I get them back I'll have the rear main wrapped up...


I'll buy beer for anyone who wants to help!
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Wow thats a lot of money.... When you bought the truck did you over look a lot of stuff that was going bad? Or did it all go bad after you bought it?
 
holsky said:
Wow thats a lot of money.... When you bought the truck did you over look a lot of stuff that was going bad? Or did it all go bad after you bought it?
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I overlooked a few things. I didn't pay attention to the routing of the turbo oil lines. when the pin holding the KDP went though, it toasted damn near everything. they found some more shady work in there too. PO had the valves turned so they had an extra groove so the springs would sit lower. they acted like 60lb springs that way, but it caused binding, and side loading on the valves. toasted all the valve seals, and damaged some of the guides.

new cam, crank, and pump gears, new cam, new valves, springs, retainers and keepers, cam chest, gear cover, etc. With all the performance parts already on the truck, and thinking this would be the only repair, I went with good performance parts when I did the replacements, which did add some to the cost. I was kind of stuck with the only place that was willing to do the work, and I got raped for almost 5G in labor. the rear main hadn't been leaking when I got it, so I don't know if thats the result of debris catching the seal or not. Same thing with the turbos. up until the truck up and died, it wasn't leaking a drop or burning any oil at all. I think the rear main and oil seal leaks in the turbos may be partially the result of all the debris from the KDP destruction.

I know when I bought it I drove it home like 800 miles without a hitch, and she had plenty of power.
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the truck.

Since you had a camshaft failure it could be possible that that the cam journal soft plug got pushed out of the block. A couple of years ago I pulled my trans out to fix my rear main leak and I found that it was dry. I pulled the trans adapter off of the block figuring that it must have been an issue with the rear main seal housing, to my surprise the soft plug fell to the ground. That turned into pulling the timing cover and finding that my cam gear walked off about half an inch allowing the cam to walk back and forth causing the plug to pop out.
 
OMG hellen keller could now have done some of that stupid chit that this guy did that truck needs to be drove off a cliff and collect insurance money
and cutting 2 grooves off of a harmonic ballancer can not be healthy
 
TheBigNasty said:
I was just trying to get the point across that ever time you crank that truck with the turbo the way it is, you're probability of a run away goes up.
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Agree^

OP- If your going to start it more in that condidtion it might not be a bad idea to pull the intake off the turbo and have a piece of 2x4 or solid clip board ready to choke the motor incase its decides to go for a ride...
 
not enoughsmoke said:
OMG hellen keller could now have done some of that stupid chit that this guy did that truck needs to be drove off a cliff and collect insurance money
and cutting 2 grooves off of a harmonic ballancer can not be healthy
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i think you have to cut 2 ribs off the harmonic ballancer to run one with an upgraded cover. I personally do not have experience with it but i know all of the shops i have talked to have said you do
 
Im gonna take a guess that this is a black superduty with a lift, and it might have come from Michigan?
 
BrettWINspeed said:
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the truck.

Since you had a camshaft failure it could be possible that that the cam journal soft plug got pushed out of the block. A couple of years ago I pulled my trans out to fix my rear main leak and I found that it was dry. I pulled the trans adapter off of the block figuring that it must have been an issue with the rear main seal housing, to my surprise the soft plug fell to the ground. That turned into pulling the timing cover and finding that my cam gear walked off about half an inch allowing the cam to walk back and forth causing the plug to pop out.
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that is entirely possible. something I hadn't even thought of. I'll do some searching so I know what I need to look for when I pull it. I'm assuming I'm still going to be pulling the trans to replace the soft plug though?

not enoughsmoke said:
OMG hellen keller could now have done some of that stupid chit that this guy did that truck needs to be drove off a cliff and collect insurance money
and cutting 2 grooves off of a harmonic ballancer can not be healthy
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Want to drive it off the cliff for me? I'd sell it, but I won't sell a lemon, and frankly with the money I've had to dump into it, i couldn't get half of what I've spent back right now, and I just can't afford that right now...

Smoken Gun said:
Agree^

OP- If your going to start it more in that condidtion it might not be a bad idea to pull the intake off the turbo and have a piece of 2x4 or solid clip board ready to choke the motor incase its decides to go for a ride...
Click to expand...

well, since I fried the shutoff solenoid when I was fixing some bad wiring, all I need to do is pull the bailing wire off the solenoid and she'll die. I've got to order the solenoid come payday. I'll take the blame for this, I hooked the wires up backwards when I was fixing some bad wires

rollincoalCTD said:
Im gonna take a guess that this is a black superduty with a lift, and it might have come from Michigan?
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And you would be correct in that guess... Since your bio says you're from MI, I'm going to assume you spent some time in Alaska, and you're the PO...
 
OnVacation said:
well, since I fried the shutoff solenoid when I was fixing some bad wiring, all I need to do is pull the bailing wire off the solenoid and she'll die. I've got to order the solenoid come payday. I'll take the blame for this, I hooked the wires up backwards when I was fixing some bad wires
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Fail
 
TheBigNasty said:
Fail
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got the two coils wired up backwards. starter coil stayed on instead of the hold coil. she caught fire. scorched some more wires. that's part of this weekend's project...

Hey, this is an easy fix. relatively cheap part, simple replacement, and go.
 
OnVacation said:
got the two coils wired up backwards. starter coil stayed on instead of the hold coil. she caught fire. scorched some more wires. that's part of this weekend's project...

Hey, this is an easy fix. relatively cheap part, simple replacement, and go.
Click to expand...

Double fail for not recognizing why you failed in the first place.

Ask yourself what would cause a run away condition...
 
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