New Dodge exhaust manifold available

I can see 2 major problems with this header. He won't sell many, and if he does, his phone will be very busy in about 2 months. He should have done more testing on that design.

J.D.

What do you see?
 
Solid bolt flange instead of individual.

No expansion joints.

2 things that will kill this thing after about 20 heat cycles.

J.D.
 
my stainless header has a solid flange, no expansion joints, and is a much thinner gauge than that manifold...

it's only been on for three months... figure at least two heat cycles a day x 90 days? = 180+ heat cycles... Hogue has been running a solid flanged stainless header for, what, a couple years now? I'm guessing that log manifold is going to hold up a lot better than you think it is
 
i think so too

dont know how much better it will perform over a ats but it sure looks nice
 
I help test a manifold almost identical to that one for about a year. Got real tired of the flange warping. Tried different materials and different styles over and over. The builder ended up putting in slip joints and making individual flanges for each cylinder.

I would be curious to see what yours looks like,Forrest, if you took it off and put the flange to a straight edge.

Just hope the builder of this one put in some serious R&D before going with that design. And do you really think Hogue would tell us if he had to replace the header on his truck when he is also pushing them?
 
One thing these tube ss hedders have been tested on diesels and you lose low and mid range torque and hp so for a street / race truck thay suck to drive . Race truck with a small high rpm power band if you could keep rpm were you need it { hard to do} might be ok . You also WILL LOSE alot of heat from the thin tube . Castiron manifolds are 1/4 wall for the most part and will hold more heat in { better spool on the street} . I guess thay have there place , but not on a street truck thats low and mid rpms 90% of the time .
 
One thing these tube ss hedders have been tested on diesels and you lose low and mid range torque and hp so for a street / race truck thay suck to drive . Race truck with a small high rpm power band if you could keep rpm were you need it { hard to do} might be ok . You also WILL LOSE alot of heat from the thin tube . Castiron manifolds are 1/4 wall for the most part and will hold more heat in { better spool on the street} . I guess thay have there place , but not on a street truck thats low and mid rpms 90% of the time .


Build the header correctly and it will spool just as fast as a stock manifold and have power gains up top! I posted my dyno compairson numbers on the tub. manifold thread, last page
 
One thing these tube ss hedders have been tested on diesels and you lose low and mid range torque and hp so for a street / race truck thay suck to drive . Race truck with a small high rpm power band if you could keep rpm were you need it { hard to do} might be ok . You also WILL LOSE alot of heat from the thin tube . Castiron manifolds are 1/4 wall for the most part and will hold more heat in { better spool on the street} . I guess thay have there place , but not on a street truck thats low and mid rpms 90% of the time .

thay? :bang:hehe:

I've got a 4wd Mega Cab... the ONLY engine/fueling mod I've got is a Smarty... the truck is heavy and it is a pure daily driver... definately doesn't suck to drive! :)
 
I help test a manifold almost identical to that one for about a year. Got real tired of the flange warping. Tried different materials and different styles over and over. The builder ended up putting in slip joints and making individual flanges for each cylinder.

I would be curious to see what yours looks like,Forrest, if you took it off and put the flange to a straight edge.

Just hope the builder of this one put in some serious R&D before going with that design. And do you really think Hogue would tell us if he had to replace the header on his truck when he is also pushing them?

he would tell me... he's running the same ported 12v header he's been running the whole time! (on his 24v CR! :hehe: )

I was VERY skeptical about a stainless header as I've seen a lot of problems with stainless turbo headers in the gasser world, but this thing seems to be holding up great.

if I ever have to take it off, I'll obviously check the flanges for flatness and will belt sand them true.

YMMV, this setup works great for me... no clutter under the hood like twins, but killer EGT reduction
 
If these guys build headers for Pro stock tractors, I would have no issues running them on the street, a pro stock will see more heat than ours will ever see.
 
his 12 and 24v header has been out for a couple years now, and have had no issues.
 
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