New VP44 Pump wont start when hot?!?!

24vriviera said:
I found mine does this, kicking the key on to let fuel through the vp cools it off and fires right up.

Try pouring a bottle of cold water right on top of the injection pump when its hot and see if it fires.

Some companies don't replace electronics on these remans, and this could be causing your issue.
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I sprayed the pump with the hose one time. Didn't seem todo it. I guess tomorrow I'll play with it all day and see what's going on. I'll try the overflow valve again and see about the list pump pressure.

It always starts just take longer sometimes. Aggravating paying the money for a new pump and having this go on. I feel like the companies that sell these pumps are mostly liars. "Company X" says it has a new computer. While if you go to blue chip a pump with a new computer is over double what I paid for the reman I got. I dunno who's telling the truth with their only being 2 or 3 places with the Bosch test pump
 
Unplug the temp sensor when it's hot and won't start See if it changes anything. Just a thought had one do the same thing to me and that's what it was bad temp sensor.
 
24vriviera said:
I found mine does this, kicking the key on to let fuel through the vp cools it off and fires right up.

Try pouring a bottle of cold water right on top of the injection pump when its hot and see if it fires.

Some companies don't replace electronics on these remans, and this could be causing your issue.
Click to expand...


I'm not really familiar with VP's, but in the mechanical rotary injection pump world this means the head and rotor is wore out.
 
^That's what I understand as well. I just don't see how it's acceptable to buy something like this and not have it work 100%
 
I wouldn't doubt that mine is worn out, it's had a few hard miles. LOL. it mainly did this at anything over 20 psi fuel pressure, at 18 or less its fine.

But yes, see what warranty is on the pump and get another coming.
 
idontcare909 said:
I sprayed the pump with the hose one time. Didn't seem todo it. I guess tomorrow I'll play with it all day and see what's going on. I'll try the overflow valve again and see about the list pump pressure.

It always starts just take longer sometimes. Aggravating paying the money for a new pump and having this go on. I feel like the companies that sell these pumps are mostly liars. "Company X" says it has a new computer. While if you go to blue chip a pump with a new computer is over double what I paid for the reman I got. I dunno who's telling the truth with their only being 2 or 3 places with the Bosch test pump
Click to expand...

Kyle, Our pumps DO come with new computers.
 
I have a few fuel system parts in the way. New fads springs and getting rid if the rest of the banjo bolts in fuel system. I'll update my findings once I get the parts in and installed.

Thanks for suggestions and help.
 
head and rotor, ive seen about 10% of remaned pumps have ****ty head & rotors, head and rotors are expensive and no rebuilder wants to replace them they can pass the checks on the stand but be at the very bottom on cranking fuel or the builder didnt check cranking when the pump is hot
 
Ok, so i tried a few things, even thought had this thing licked. I installed a big line kit from my stock fuel filter to the vp.(My fads pump is plumbed into factory fuel filter) I also got a couple new spring from fass for my 95/95 pump to get the pressure lower. so as of now it has 14 psi going down the road. While double checking everything I found that my fuel drain on filter housing was leaking. so ordered a new one of those. (I tired chaining the o rings but it kept leaking). I got the fuel leak stopped and all seemed well.

i went out to local parts house for something and when i came back out it wouldn't start again. still no CEL. crank it once it doesn't start, wait for fuel pump to stop running. cranked for about 7 seconds and it starts up. the truck always eventually starts but i just don't see why it won't fire right off the bat. anyone have any suggestions, they would be very appreciated.
 
I just remembered there's a wire going to the pump that supposedly is a "fault wire". It's supposed to prevent pump from firing. I'll have to do some digging to find it again, but I cut that wire and it seemed to help.

Other thing you can do is get your hands on an extra VP44 connector. Keep only the power and ground wires that let the pump fire and idle. When the truck won't start, slap that connector on, alligator clips to battery, and test. Very handy tool to have around.
 
I have heard of the fault wire before. I guess I kind of forgot about it. Perhaps that'll help. I haven't hot wired the pump because it always eventually starts.... But I see what you're saying there.
 
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