OnVacation
New member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2011
- Messages
- 381
I hesitate to post this thread at all since I've just blown the turbo again, but for all the help I've gotten, I should probably post updates on exactly everything that I did and post some pictures.
Backstory: the bolt for the tab holding the KDP in backed out, got caught between the cam and pump gears. The camshaft snapped at the very front. Broke several lifters, bent every pushrod, and bent several valves.
I sent the truck to D&W diesel in Auburn NY for repairs. they replaced the cam with a new hamilton 181/210, put in hamilton springs, keepers and retainers, replaced and lapped the valves and sealed it down with a new head gasket (truck was already fitted with cut pistons, o-rings and studs). I had ordered kenny's pulling parts' adjustable cam and pump gears and billet front cover. The shop wouldn't install the front cover since they said they would have to space out the pulley. I gave up after much gnashing of teeth and let them put on the stamped cover. When I picked it up I was shown some problems on the turbos (atmospheric turbo was draining higher than the turbo body, lines were tight, drains were too small, etc...)
I picked up the truck and quickly realized I wasn't boosting the same and was peaking my pyro too often. I suspected the timing. In addition, I had oil pouring out the bellhousing. I started at the rear, pulled the transmission and clutches, and replaced the rear cam plug and reinstalled the SB clutch and the nv5600. I tore apart the front, removed the front cover, and sent the balancer off to be machined.
I pulled the turbos, and upon realizing they were in rough shape sent them out to columbus diesel supply for a rebuild. They found that the s358 had a number of hairline fractures in the exhaust housing. I decided to go with a non-wastagated housing to provide clearance for the heater box.
I had never liked the factory oil filter setup since it essentially prevented me from removing the air filter (no clearance between filter and top of oil filter housing). I got a cummins remote filter adapter from Mumau Diesel and ordered a bypass filter head from Amsoil. I connected the two with aeroquip lines and had new drains fabricated locally for the two turbos and ordered adapters for the feeds.
I got both turbos back from rebuild and went to work having new flanges water jetted to match the new housing, and started working to make a good interturbo manifold to keep the earlier boost pipes. Winter hit, a remodel and girlfriend took priority, and progress slowed drastically...
I finally got the truck together last weekend. oil plumbed, piping connected, and fired and running. here are some highlights from the reassembly:
OE remote oil filter head
coated and wrapped exhaust piping
Amsoil bypass filter head mounted on bracket to battery tray, lines and filters connected
Filter head mounted to bracket, view from the rear
Better view from the rear of how it mounts. I had the bracket water jetted out locally from some heavy sheet stock. Same folks who cut my turbo flanges for the hot pipe. there is a tab welded on the side that mounts to the fender to keep it from stressing the bolts on the bottom
feed and return line for the filter and feed line for the turbos
Feed lines for the turbos.
Drain lines for the turbos. HX60 drains into a -16, s300 into a -10.
Backstory: the bolt for the tab holding the KDP in backed out, got caught between the cam and pump gears. The camshaft snapped at the very front. Broke several lifters, bent every pushrod, and bent several valves.
I sent the truck to D&W diesel in Auburn NY for repairs. they replaced the cam with a new hamilton 181/210, put in hamilton springs, keepers and retainers, replaced and lapped the valves and sealed it down with a new head gasket (truck was already fitted with cut pistons, o-rings and studs). I had ordered kenny's pulling parts' adjustable cam and pump gears and billet front cover. The shop wouldn't install the front cover since they said they would have to space out the pulley. I gave up after much gnashing of teeth and let them put on the stamped cover. When I picked it up I was shown some problems on the turbos (atmospheric turbo was draining higher than the turbo body, lines were tight, drains were too small, etc...)
I picked up the truck and quickly realized I wasn't boosting the same and was peaking my pyro too often. I suspected the timing. In addition, I had oil pouring out the bellhousing. I started at the rear, pulled the transmission and clutches, and replaced the rear cam plug and reinstalled the SB clutch and the nv5600. I tore apart the front, removed the front cover, and sent the balancer off to be machined.
I pulled the turbos, and upon realizing they were in rough shape sent them out to columbus diesel supply for a rebuild. They found that the s358 had a number of hairline fractures in the exhaust housing. I decided to go with a non-wastagated housing to provide clearance for the heater box.
I had never liked the factory oil filter setup since it essentially prevented me from removing the air filter (no clearance between filter and top of oil filter housing). I got a cummins remote filter adapter from Mumau Diesel and ordered a bypass filter head from Amsoil. I connected the two with aeroquip lines and had new drains fabricated locally for the two turbos and ordered adapters for the feeds.
I got both turbos back from rebuild and went to work having new flanges water jetted to match the new housing, and started working to make a good interturbo manifold to keep the earlier boost pipes. Winter hit, a remodel and girlfriend took priority, and progress slowed drastically...
I finally got the truck together last weekend. oil plumbed, piping connected, and fired and running. here are some highlights from the reassembly:
OE remote oil filter head
coated and wrapped exhaust piping
Amsoil bypass filter head mounted on bracket to battery tray, lines and filters connected
Filter head mounted to bracket, view from the rear
Better view from the rear of how it mounts. I had the bracket water jetted out locally from some heavy sheet stock. Same folks who cut my turbo flanges for the hot pipe. there is a tab welded on the side that mounts to the fender to keep it from stressing the bolts on the bottom
feed and return line for the filter and feed line for the turbos
Feed lines for the turbos.
Drain lines for the turbos. HX60 drains into a -16, s300 into a -10.