One Peice Drive Shhaft vs Two Peice

Getting a 4" 1 piece made for mine. Should be done tomorrow. Ive wasted 2 stock driveshafts, and 2 heavy duty 2 piece driveshafts, so im just gonna upgrade to the 1 piece and hopefully be done with it. I wont be driving on the street with it in. If i go to the drag strip or somethin i'll just put the 2 piece back in it. Not that big of a deal to swap the driveshaft in and out. I say get a 1 piece built for pullin, and keep your stock 2 piece and run it when u dyno, drag race, or drive the truck on the street.
 
JW3 said:
I run the factory dudge 2 piece and it works great. Has 3 1480's and is about 4" in diameter and my truck makes an honest 500rwhp.
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Dont be so conservative on them numbers their justin :poke:
Brandon
 
I know Big bad dodge had a 2 piece rear on his. The dodge carrier support is metal, I had to weld a little on it to get the carrier to mount up.

TeddyBear what did you use for the HD 2 piece shafts. If I think about it I will get a picture of my setup.
 
zstroken said:
TeddyBear what did you use for the HD 2 piece shafts. If I think about it I will get a picture of my setup.
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I had one built. Thick walled 4inch tubing, 1480 yokes. They kept breakin right in the middle at the carrier bearing. Where the slip yoke from the back piece slides onto the front piece, i kept shearin that shaft.
 
I wonder if that was caused by frame deflection? I know I broke a yoke because the one side of my axle u-bolts loosened up and allowed the axle to rotate excessively upwards.
 
Mark at Greensburg Machine built my two piece way back in early 2003 I never had one problem with it I drove it from his shop in PA cross country and as my daily driver up untill early 2005 and dynoed well over 800 RWHP. It had the 1480 series u-joints and a larger international carrier bearing.

I believe traction bars and no movment in the rear at all will help the driveline live long, with that being said perhaps my bullet proof over kill four link system helped it live to this date :)

BBD
 
I run a 4" 1 piece driveshaft that has .180 thickness walls. It is vibration free to 120MPH+.
 
BigBadDodge said:
Mark at Greensburg Machine built my two piece way back in early 2003 I never had one problem with it I drove it from his shop in PA cross country and as my daily driver up untill early 2005 and dynoed well over 800 RWHP. It had the 1480 series u-joints and a larger international carrier bearing.

I believe traction bars and no movment in the rear at all will help the driveline live long, with that being said perhaps my bullet proof over kill four link system helped it live to this date :)

BBD
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Well I saw your old truck pull this year. Went to mad bounce but the shafts held!


Thanks to everone for your input! Looks like a Greensburg built two peice with International Carrier bearing.
 
JOHNBOY said:
Well I saw your old truck pull this year. Went to mad bounce but the shafts held!
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Did'nt see that one comming............................:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:


-Tom
 
I had the bouncing solved last year with the solid rear end, it just spun out and dug trenches last year, I think you know what I mean after this year :hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

Joe, the new owner, had to have 2" of travel. Heck they wanted him to put leaf springs back on it after got the tire pressure right he said he got rid of the bounce at the last part of the season.

This thread is about driveline and that driveline is rock solid :) look at the IRP video from 2005, pull sucked driveline rock solid :)
 
That was not meant to be a slam. It was in fact kudos to the abuse the driveshaft took. I saw that truck pull several times this year. None pretty.
 
Sorry about the jab Scott, I could'nt resist............ I have seen that driveline take some abuse in years past, hey Scott, remember Ukiah '05??

I talked to my driveline guy and he said the magic number is 72" for a one piece driveshaft. If you go any longer than this the "critical speed" (like StingPuller said) becomes a factor, significantly increasing stress and failure rate. He would not build a driveshaft longer than that but mine turns out is a bit shorter so he said he could build me one with 1480's and 4" .120" wall tubing.

-Tom
 
i pulled my dually for the first time last night and broke the stock shaft. if i go 1 piece it will be 70.5 joint to joint. stock 2000 dodge 3500's are 1410 joints right? should i go to 1480's? what should i do? thanks
 

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Never seen one break there before, do you have tractrion bars? Looks like you might have had movement to cause it snap out of the slip joint sidways like that.

BBD
 
it has a ladder bar set up with 1'' travel at the bump stops. it broke going down the track at full speed. it looks like it has been twisted. i think all the 35psi boost launchs at the drag strip could have some thing to do with that. were can i fine the slip yoke for a 241DHD t-case with 1480 joints? i have look all day an no one has one thats will work. t-case is from a 2000 3500 ctd 5spd truck.
 
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